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Meet the experts

TRACY MAY HARRIOTT

International director of education and business development at US CosmeceuTechs, Tracy May Harriott has amost 30 years experience as a skin, make-up and holistic therapy specialist.

How have you seen women’s skin concerns change since you have been in the industry? I see a lot of people using too many products – people often think more products will get better results, but it can lead to skin sensitivity. That is why the Skin Health & Beauty Pyramid is such a great tool. There’s a lot out there on the market.

What advice would you give to people who feel overwhelmed? See a skincare professional. They have the best education and can give you a personal consultation for what is best for your skin. They have done the homework for you.

Where do you see the industry going over the next 10 years?  Going back to basics, more hands-on with an aesthetician (beauty therapist) then adding devices. Going back to what is proven, such as AHAs and chemical peels, which stand the test of time.

What are the greatest beauty myths? That you need a toner after your cleanser. If you have a correct pH and hydrating cleanser, that is not a necessary step. Just make sure to double cleanse.

Your biggest skincare tip? Drink water, get good, restful sleep, take internal skincare supplements and use clinically proven products such as Elizabeth Arden PRO or PRIORI. Even if you are über tired at night, perform a quick cleanse and get a hydrator on your skin – if you have time to brush your teeth, you have time for this, too.

Tell us about your beauty routine: any must-have products? In the morning I use PRIORI Facial Cleanser, Cellular Recovery Serum, Smoothing Eye Serum, Elizabeth Arden PRO Intense Hydrating Cream and alternate that with the Skin Brightening Serum; Elizabeth Arden PRO Perfecting Minerals Foundation and Finishing Touch, and I finish that off with an anti-pollution veil, Hydrating Antioxidant Spray.

JOE LEWIS

The scientist behind some of the skincare industry’s breakthrough anti-ageing technologies, Joe Lewis is president and CEO of US CosmeceuTechs, focusing on the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors.

You’ve introduced a lot of cutting-edge ingredients into skincare products in the past. Tell us about some of them. It all began with our introduction of AHAs in the early 1980s – the ingredient that really started the “cosmeceutical” revolution. With the introduction of AHAs, for the first time, consumers had access to cosmetic products that left a visible difference in the appearance of skin and did not “go down the drain” at night with your cleanser.

Tell us about the Elizabeth Arden PRO line. How does it stand out? It uses groundbreaking technologies, is based on the Skin Health & Beauty Pyramid philosophy, has a triple protection factor and incorporates clinically proven skincare minerals with SPF 15 and Tx-Botanical Complex that double as foundation for protection, correction and perfection. In essence, the range includes all the ingredients that the skin needs for optimal skin health and beauty in one brand.

And PRIORI? The range is built on proven advanced-AHA technology, and also includes Idebenone Complex, which is unique to PRIORI, combined with booster products (Target Skin Therapy) to enhance and accelerate results.

What are you working on at the moment? We continue to focus on advancing skincare standards for topical skin protection, as we believe such new standards will have the greatest impact on reducing skin cancer and premature skin ageing. The world has relied on SPF to provide consumers with the protection they need, but this science is decades old. In addition, we continue to explore new retinoids, peptides, antioxidants, growth factors and other skincare technologies, combined with new delivery systems that provide high levels of clinical outcome over a minimum time period.

What are the greatest mistakes that you see people making when it comes to skincare? In a jungle of marketing claims, consumers must rely on a strategy to select skincare products and treatments. Up until now, there was no such published strategy, but now we have the Skin Health & Beauty Pyramid so consumers can make informed decisions.

Dr NEAL KITCHEN

VP of strategy and development at HydroPeptide, Neal Kitchen is an expert in protein biology research, the development of clinically proven anti-ageing skincare products and the advancement of peptide technology in skincare formulations.

What are peptides? Peptides are molecules of at least two or more amino acids chemically linked together via a bond. In skincare, peptides are typically two to 10 amino acids long.

How are they involved in anti-ageing? Peptides can act as messenger molecules that improve the skin at the cellular level. In skincare, they are often categorised based on how they work. The main categories are neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides, signalling peptides and carrier peptides. All three can play a valuable role in combating ageing. Neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides interfere with the neuromuscular junction to decrease muscle contraction, which will reduce expression lines and facial wrinkles. These peptides should always be accompanied with signalling peptides that stimulate collagen and extra-cellular matrix proteins. Signalling peptides either stimulate or suppress the activity of a cell-signalling pathway. By understanding how each signalling peptide acts, we can combine peptides for a more robust formulation and make it more likely the cells achieve the desired result. The final category, carrier peptides, play a key role in delivering nutrients, essential metals, and even other peptides and proteins to the skin.

What sort of results can people expect from using peptides in their beauty regimen? HydroPeptide creates products for immediate and long-term impact. Combining peptides can create an orchestrated approach to restoring damaged and aged skin. For example, HydroPeptide’s Power Serum is a strategic formula of 13 peptides with antioxidants and nutrients that yields a powerful anti-aging effect to the skin.

At what age should we incorporate anti-ageing products into our routine? Protecting the skin and preventative measures should begin very young. The damage our skin experiences can happen at any age, so products that counteract it should be used throughout our lives. Sophisticated formulas such as HydroPeptide products are designed for adult skin ranging from your 20s and beyond. Your skin needs will vary, though, as you age and depending on where you live, so it is important to get guidance from your licensed professional. Tell us about your work using topical probiotics. Probiotics are an exciting area. HydroPeptide’s peptide preservative, Lactobacillus Ferment, is a probiotic extract shown to improve skin clarity, combat dryness and enhance skin health.

MELANIE GRANT

Skincare expert and owner of Melanie Grant Double Bay, Melanie Grant specialises in skincare services for corrective skin procedures and personalised skin regimes.

How have you seen the beauty industry change? Skincare products just keep getting better. Treatments and products for skincare have become more of a necessity instead of a luxury.

What’s your daily beauty routine? I like to keep things simple and consistent. In the morning, I cleanse, apply an antioxidant serum and then a moisturiser with a built-in sunscreen. I don’t wear makeup during the day except for mascara and lip balm. At night, I usually apply a retinol serum or an antioxidant treatment after cleansing, then apply a nourishing moisturiser and eye cream.

Your anti-ageing tips? Take care of yourself: eat well, get sufficient sleep, protect yourself from the sun and don’t smoke or over-indulge in alcohol.
Also, avoid stress – it’s incredibly ageing.

Tell us about light therapy. Who should have it and when? Omnilux LED Light therapy is beneficial for pretty much everyone. In my opinion, anything that induces collagen is always great for long-term skin health. The real upside with light therapy is that there’s no risk to the skin or downtime.

What are the greatest trends in the beauty and skincare industry at the moment? The idea that we all start with a great canvas and a real focus on natural, healthy skin. Camouflage only does so much and so many of my clients prefer to go sans make-up, as make-up can actually be quite ageing.

What are the greatest mistakes people make with their skincare? Using the wrong skincare products for their specific skin type/condition and
over-treating their skin with too many harsh or active products.

What sort of regimen would you recommend at different stages in life? In your 20s, take a preventative approach, using antioxidant, serum and sunscreen. Then start to use brightening and refining products, such as a retinol serum, in your 30s. In the next decade, include a vitamin C serum to promote collagen and firm the skin. Then when you enter the 50s, use growth factors and peptides to keep the skin supple and plump. For the 60s and beyond, try restorative and nourishing products, such as lipid-heavy night creams and a rich eye cream to protect and repair the skin.

What’s in store over the next 10 years? I think we’ll see more organic, chemical-free and plant-based products. Technology is always evolving, so the consumer will expect consistently better results as well as a better experience.

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Long Read: Natural Selection

 

There used to be a perception that natural skincare was mixed up in someone’s kitchen with these pungent old patchouli smells, says Lisa Wilson, Trilogy’s International Communication Manager. Reflecting on how much the natural beauty world has changed over the past decade, it’s easy to conjure up the green consumer of yesteryear – those accustomed to shopping in health-food stores and already at home with the concept of sustainability. “When we started, we were lucky to find one shelf dedicated to natural skincare,” recalls Alison Goodger, one of the founders of Sukin. Fast forward to the present day and ethical beauty is not only mainstream – it’s aspirational for old and young alike.

The success for those at the forefront of this shift didn’t happen overnight – Karen Murrell, founder of Karen Murrell Lipstick, says it’s been a hard road convincing people that natural skincare can be just as good if not better than synthetic-based beauty products. “Natural ingredients are well tested, they have history now. We’ve been using these ingredients for 10 years, we know what works; we’re driven by results and efficacy. Everyone’s excited about the promise of of natural ingredients,” says Murrell.

Wilson agrees, saying there’s been a huge education process involved, and while it hasn’t always been easy, putting in the hard work in the early years has paid off. “There’s much more of a belief in the performance of natural ingredients. It’s performance that always matters when it comes to skincare, and for a lot of people natural was a bonus but now we’re seeing natural products out-performing traditional products.”

INSIDE AND OUT

Natural beauty may be coming of age but new ingredients and trends continue to emerge every year. “The constant technical advances, innovation and discovery of more and more breakthrough ingredients is really exciting. The options opening up for new product development are extraordinary,” says Trilogy’s CEO, Angela Buglass.

As for the natural ingredients that will revolutionise our beauty regimens, a simple peek inside our fridges could give us a clue as to what the big trends will be in the coming years. According to natural beauty experts and product developers, superfoods are set to takeover not just our diets but our beauty cabinets, too. Goodger, who launched Sukin’s Super Greens range in early 2015, says while the trend for food-inspired formulas isn’t new, it’s keeping up with the growing shift in consumer lifestyle choices. “Kale, spirulina, parsley, acai and goji are just some of the superfood ingredients being used in skincare formulations.”

“Think, blueberry, chia, avocado,” adds Buglass, who agrees that superfood ingredients have increased in prominence recently, particularly in specialist products such as skin serums and masks.

FARM TO FACE

The rise of superfoods isn’t the only foodie trend that’s impacting on beauty cabinets around the globe: a growing awareness and knowledge of skincare ingredients is increasing according to Buglass, and with that comes an interest in traceability and sourcing. As Buglass points out, the growing and very real concern that the planet’s resources are not limitless is influencing who we buy from. “As with food trends, more and more people are reading ingredients lists and educating themselves about what’s actually in the products they’re using to care for their faces and bodies,” Buglass says. “Women and men are looking to make more responsible decisions about the way they care for their skin, their wellbeing and the world. We’re seeing the beginning of a major shift in the influence that consumers have over how companies behave.”

Goodger agrees and believes that consumers are taking a more holistic approach to their health by making clean, green choices with their food, and beauty purchases. “We’re asking more questions about a brand’s choice of ingredients and sustainability values,” she says.

GREEN-TINTED GLASSES

With the popularity of natural-based beauty soaring, an increasing number of newcomers and traditional beauty companies are jumping on the green bandwagon. But, as Wilson from Trilogy explains, slapping a couple of natural ingredients on a product doesn’t make it natural, ethical or sustainable. “Unfortunately ‘natural’ doesn’t always mean natural,” says Wilson, and greenwashing – brands disingenuously promoting themselves as being environmentally responsible – is a problem Wilson believes will get worse before it gets better. “It’s going to get harder and harder as the market grows and becomes more cluttered.” Wilson says Trilogy frequently receives questions from people asking how to distinguish truly natural products from imposters. The confusion and misinformation that surrounds natural beauty played a big role Trilogy’s decision to attain NATRUE Natural Cosmetics Certification – any product bearing the NATRUE logo will involve only natural and organic ingredients, soft manufacturing processes and environmentally friendly practices in its manufacture, and it will be free from undesirables including genetically modified ingredients, animal testing and petroleum- derived ingredients.

While independent natural and organic certifications is the easiest way to figure out if a product is what it says it is, a sticker only tells part of the story for pioneering natural beauty companies such as Trilogy. Going further than just using natural and organic ingredients in their products, many green beauty companies are serious about having as little negative impact on the environment as possible. They are also dedicated to making the world a better place. “People want to know where their ingredients come from; they want to know the packaging isn’t just recyclable, it’s responsibly produced, too,” says Wilson.

“We use the term responsibility,” says Buglass, “It’s not rocket science; it’s simply being responsible with every choice we make – ethically, environmentally and socially.”

TURNING GREEN

Although pioneers in the industry are cautious about giving credence to beauty giants who are keen to hop aboard the green train, a number of big players are taking laudable and serious steps to reduce the impact their companies are having on the environment.

LVMH – parent company to Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Guerlain cosmetics – has been undertaking sustainability initiatives for more than a decade. Recent actions include launching an internal carbon fund dedicated to reducing greenhouse gas emissions by funding projects such as energy consumption reduction equipment and the production of renewable energy. L’Oréal Group, which includes beauty brands Lancôme, Yves Saint Laurent, Kiehl’s, Kérastase and Maybelline in its portfolio, revealed its Sharing Beauty With All programme in 2013: a commitment to producing, developing and innovating sustainability. By 2020, L’Oréal Group has pledged that 100 per cent of its products will have an environmental or social benefit and that carbon emissions, water consumption and waste per finished product, will be reduced by 60 per cent. By the end of 2014, L’Oreal Group had achieved a 50 per cent reduction of CO2 emissions compared to 2005.

Moves to reduce waste and create sustainable packaging are among the steps Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) is taking to create a greener future. Last year, the ELC undertook a packaging material usage study in order to establish a baseline from which they will develop new strategies to reduce, replace and recycle product packaging.

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