TRACY MAY HARRIOTT
International director of education and business development at US CosmeceuTechs, Tracy May Harriott has amost 30 years experience as a skin, make-up and holistic therapy specialist.
How have you seen women’s skin concerns change since you have been in the industry? I see a lot of people using too many products – people often think more products will get better results, but it can lead to skin sensitivity. That is why the Skin Health & Beauty Pyramid is such a great tool. There’s a lot out there on the market.
What advice would you give to people who feel overwhelmed? See a skincare professional. They have the best education and can give you a personal consultation for what is best for your skin. They have done the homework for you.
Where do you see the industry going over the next 10 years? Going back to basics, more hands-on with an aesthetician (beauty therapist) then adding devices. Going back to what is proven, such as AHAs and chemical peels, which stand the test of time.
What are the greatest beauty myths? That you need a toner after your cleanser. If you have a correct pH and hydrating cleanser, that is not a necessary step. Just make sure to double cleanse.
Your biggest skincare tip? Drink water, get good, restful sleep, take internal skincare supplements and use clinically proven products such as Elizabeth Arden PRO or PRIORI. Even if you are über tired at night, perform a quick cleanse and get a hydrator on your skin – if you have time to brush your teeth, you have time for this, too.
Tell us about your beauty routine: any must-have products? In the morning I use PRIORI Facial Cleanser, Cellular Recovery Serum, Smoothing Eye Serum, Elizabeth Arden PRO Intense Hydrating Cream and alternate that with the Skin Brightening Serum; Elizabeth Arden PRO Perfecting Minerals Foundation and Finishing Touch, and I finish that off with an anti-pollution veil, Hydrating Antioxidant Spray.
The scientist behind some of the skincare industry’s breakthrough anti-ageing technologies, Joe Lewis is president and CEO of US CosmeceuTechs, focusing on the cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors.
You’ve introduced a lot of cutting-edge ingredients into skincare products in the past. Tell us about some of them. It all began with our introduction of AHAs in the early 1980s – the ingredient that really started the “cosmeceutical” revolution. With the introduction of AHAs, for the first time, consumers had access to cosmetic products that left a visible difference in the appearance of skin and did not “go down the drain” at night with your cleanser.
Tell us about the Elizabeth Arden PRO line. How does it stand out? It uses groundbreaking technologies, is based on the Skin Health & Beauty Pyramid philosophy, has a triple protection factor and incorporates clinically proven skincare minerals with SPF 15 and Tx-Botanical Complex that double as foundation for protection, correction and perfection. In essence, the range includes all the ingredients that the skin needs for optimal skin health and beauty in one brand.
And PRIORI? The range is built on proven advanced-AHA technology, and also includes Idebenone Complex, which is unique to PRIORI, combined with booster products (Target Skin Therapy) to enhance and accelerate results.
What are you working on at the moment? We continue to focus on advancing skincare standards for topical skin protection, as we believe such new standards will have the greatest impact on reducing skin cancer and premature skin ageing. The world has relied on SPF to provide consumers with the protection they need, but this science is decades old. In addition, we continue to explore new retinoids, peptides, antioxidants, growth factors and other skincare technologies, combined with new delivery systems that provide high levels of clinical outcome over a minimum time period.
What are the greatest mistakes that you see people making when it comes to skincare? In a jungle of marketing claims, consumers must rely on a strategy to select skincare products and treatments. Up until now, there was no such published strategy, but now we have the Skin Health & Beauty Pyramid so consumers can make informed decisions.
Dr NEAL KITCHEN
VP of strategy and development at HydroPeptide, Neal Kitchen is an expert in protein biology research, the development of clinically proven anti-ageing skincare products and the advancement of peptide technology in skincare formulations.
What are peptides? Peptides are molecules of at least two or more amino acids chemically linked together via a bond. In skincare, peptides are typically two to 10 amino acids long.
How are they involved in anti-ageing? Peptides can act as messenger molecules that improve the skin at the cellular level. In skincare, they are often categorised based on how they work. The main categories are neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides, signalling peptides and carrier peptides. All three can play a valuable role in combating ageing. Neurotransmitter-inhibitor peptides interfere with the neuromuscular junction to decrease muscle contraction, which will reduce expression lines and facial wrinkles. These peptides should always be accompanied with signalling peptides that stimulate collagen and extra-cellular matrix proteins. Signalling peptides either stimulate or suppress the activity of a cell-signalling pathway. By understanding how each signalling peptide acts, we can combine peptides for a more robust formulation and make it more likely the cells achieve the desired result. The final category, carrier peptides, play a key role in delivering nutrients, essential metals, and even other peptides and proteins to the skin.
What sort of results can people expect from using peptides in their beauty regimen? HydroPeptide creates products for immediate and long-term impact. Combining peptides can create an orchestrated approach to restoring damaged and aged skin. For example, HydroPeptide’s Power Serum is a strategic formula of 13 peptides with antioxidants and nutrients that yields a powerful anti-aging effect to the skin.
At what age should we incorporate anti-ageing products into our routine? Protecting the skin and preventative measures should begin very young. The damage our skin experiences can happen at any age, so products that counteract it should be used throughout our lives. Sophisticated formulas such as HydroPeptide products are designed for adult skin ranging from your 20s and beyond. Your skin needs will vary, though, as you age and depending on where you live, so it is important to get guidance from your licensed professional. Tell us about your work using topical probiotics. Probiotics are an exciting area. HydroPeptide’s peptide preservative, Lactobacillus Ferment, is a probiotic extract shown to improve skin clarity, combat dryness and enhance skin health.
Skincare expert and owner of Melanie Grant Double Bay, Melanie Grant specialises in skincare services for corrective skin procedures and personalised skin regimes.
How have you seen the beauty industry change? Skincare products just keep getting better. Treatments and products for skincare have become more of a necessity instead of a luxury.
What’s your daily beauty routine? I like to keep things simple and consistent. In the morning, I cleanse, apply an antioxidant serum and then a moisturiser with a built-in sunscreen. I don’t wear makeup during the day except for mascara and lip balm. At night, I usually apply a retinol serum or an antioxidant treatment after cleansing, then apply a nourishing moisturiser and eye cream.
Your anti-ageing tips? Take care of yourself: eat well, get sufficient sleep, protect yourself from the sun and don’t smoke or over-indulge in alcohol.
Also, avoid stress – it’s incredibly ageing.
Tell us about light therapy. Who should have it and when? Omnilux LED Light therapy is beneficial for pretty much everyone. In my opinion, anything that induces collagen is always great for long-term skin health. The real upside with light therapy is that there’s no risk to the skin or downtime.
What are the greatest trends in the beauty and skincare industry at the moment? The idea that we all start with a great canvas and a real focus on natural, healthy skin. Camouflage only does so much and so many of my clients prefer to go sans make-up, as make-up can actually be quite ageing.
What are the greatest mistakes people make with their skincare? Using the wrong skincare products for their specific skin type/condition and
over-treating their skin with too many harsh or active products.
What sort of regimen would you recommend at different stages in life? In your 20s, take a preventative approach, using antioxidant, serum and sunscreen. Then start to use brightening and refining products, such as a retinol serum, in your 30s. In the next decade, include a vitamin C serum to promote collagen and firm the skin. Then when you enter the 50s, use growth factors and peptides to keep the skin supple and plump. For the 60s and beyond, try restorative and nourishing products, such as lipid-heavy night creams and a rich eye cream to protect and repair the skin.
What’s in store over the next 10 years? I think we’ll see more organic, chemical-free and plant-based products. Technology is always evolving, so the consumer will expect consistently better results as well as a better experience.