Among the front-page news (in fashion land anyway) that is unexpected celebrity models (Claudia Schiffer at Versace), A-list front rowers (Kylie Jenner at Prada, Ryan Gosling and Julia Roberts at Gucci, Cate Blanchett and Juliette Binoche at Giorgio Armani) and designer changes (Sabato de Sarno’s first collection for Gucci) there were some notable design trends that will be informing our wardrobes for months to come.
Most of the overarching trends are ideas that have been bubbling under or are already in the mainstream. Given the collections shown are largely for northern Spring Summer 24 (landing in stores from February) we are perfectly positioned down under to get the jump on the looks for our just-arriving summer season.
Here are six trends that dominated the summer runways from the just-held shows in Milan:
Sheer
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The rise and rise of sheer fabrications continues, so expect to keep layering those mesh tops over bandeaus and bras (or for the rest of us, demure tank tops) for a while yet.
The most obvious incarnation was at Dolce & Gabbana where the collection could simply be referred to as lingerie dressing but also included some more minimal shift dresses too. At Alberta Ferretti a chic collection of summer dresses and suiting was dominated by sheer fabrications, from cinched pastel peach and fluid red gowns to clean white shirt-dresses and a sheer mauve-pink shirt, shorts and bralet combo.
Minimal tailoring
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Clean, lean lines are still to be found in abundance, where quiet luxury meets corporate cool to create minimalist outfits that can easily traverse both work and play.
BOSS also hinted at the return of grey pinstripe and wool suiting, worn to perfection by Gigi Hadid and Ashley Graham but unexpectedly layered with deep burgundy.
The stark suiting a look that’s easily found in shops already, just pair with gold jewellery – in particular gold pendants and smooth, sculptural and often bold gold earrings (think Bottega Veneta’s viral gold drop earrings) to balance the minimalist look and choose lighter fabrications in white or cream for summer.
Pastel
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Though it seems sweet and saccharine, just like plenty of other design elements there’s an edgy 90s vibe to the pastels infusing collections right now. Versace played around with checkerboard lime, and Gucci seemed to be channeling (or appealing to) Olivia Rodrigo with its lace-topped pastel silk slips layered with bulky trench-style jackets. Prada did its pastel looks in elegant organza sheath dresses paired with kitten-heeled mules.
‘Going out’ shorts
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Warm up the stair-climbing machine, short shorts are back. But far from hitting the beach in these beauties, the new way to wear micro shorts is to dinner or the club. Like at Gucci, Emporio Armani, Versace and Tom Ford, the VERY truncated trou are realised in luxe fabrications like silk and velvet and cut in a tailored way. The expanse of leg is balanced with a blazer and shirt, or a long-sleeved top and a nonchalant, rock n roll attitude.
Underarm tucked bags
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The bags at Fendi, Ferragamo and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini were of a medium size and the way to carry them now? Fit comfortably tucked under arms or carried by the base in the palm of a hand rather than slung over shoulders or carried by the handle. That’s even if they are a classic top-handle purse or handbag shape. It’s a small detail that seems silly when you mention it, but looks modern and chic when seen on the runway or on the plethora of street-style images captured of stylish guests outside the shows.
Shine and sparkle
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Like at New Zealand Fashion Week, fabrications that give off a soft reflective shine were in abundance. Emporio Armani’s collection was full of gnelte simmer and shine, like the bluess, pinks and pueple shades were viewed under light-dappled water. Prada’s iconic satin was shaped into simple separates, Fendi offered up a column gown in ice blue and Gucci employed shiny oxblood-coloured leather in a straight skirt with the tiniest bra tops ever seen. Liquid-looking metallics were out in force too.
Giorgio Armani’s dominant colour scheme of blues and greens was also employed in shimmering satin layered with crystalized pieces and crystal elements shone through in sparkling mesh dresses at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Versace and Prada too, but each were paired with more minimal shapes or styling.
