The 80s was undoubtedly an era of excess, that extended all the way to the perfume counter. Fragrances like Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium, Dior’s Poison and Obsession by Calvin Klein dominated sales and the even the application approach tended towards to be ‘more is more.’
The minimalism of the 90s then took over in clean, fresh and sprightly scents – think CK One – and we never quite got back to that place where head-turning, inescapable fragrance was seen as desirable. However with a new crop of releases, it seems the tide may be turning.
Although tasteful, subtle-as-skin fragrances are definitely incredibly popular, there also is a new group of powerful perfumes being referred to as ‘beast-mode’ perfumes. They are recognisable by their audacious character, lasting composition and projection, meaning they linger in the air around you.
From more intense concentrations to elevating key notes like cherry, patchouli, amber, oud, woody and smoky notes, the new perfume guard is unapologetic and bold.
L-R: Louis Vuitton Pur Santal; Amouage Dia 40; Byredo Rouge Chaotique; Tom Ford Vanilla Fatale; YSL Black Opium Over Red
Even men’s fragrances are part of the movement, with scents like popular Dior Sauvage Elixir lauded for their incredible staying power.
For women, the trend has been described as being about smelling ‘confident and expensive’. While 80s perfumes put a heavy helping of heady florals front and center, new releases are more like to include them in the mix with spices and woods. This also might have something to do with the desirability for including precious natural ingredients and plants and elements with a heritage based in cultures around the world, particularly India and the Middle East.
L-R: Jo Malone London Red Hibiscus; Maison Crivelli Tubéreuse Astrale Extrait; Giorgio Armani Noir Kogane; D.S. & DURGA Deep Dark Vanilla; Gucci Guilty Elixir De Parfum
Concentrations are intense, which means Parfums, Extrait de Parfums, Elixirs, Colognes and Eau de parfum Intense are popular, but beware, the higher fragrance concentrations typically contain more perfume oils and less alcohol, and are thus more expensive.
Though these new perfumes are gaining popularity, their return can be divisive. So if you’re a fan, think of your office-mates and spritz sparingly.
