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Gucci Reboots Under New Designer’s Vision

Sabato de Sarno’s inaugural collection at Gucci
Sabato de Sarno’s inaugural collection at Gucci
In a remarkable fashion pivot, Gucci's recent catwalk show signalled more than just the unveiling of a new season; it marked a profound reset for the brand itself.

After seven years of Alessandro Michele’s flamboyant and exuberant designs, Gucci decided it was time for a fresh start. In just 15 minutes, the brand wiped the slate clean and embarked on a new sartorial journey.

The debut look of the show featured a striking long black coat, adorned solely with Gucci’s iconic red-and-green stripes, subtly peeking out from the back vent as the model strutted down the runway. While some loafers sported chunky flatform soles, others showcased the classic slim-profile loafer that had been somewhat sidelined but was now making a bold comeback. The collection also introduced kitten heels with sparkling chain-back slingbacks, creating a range of refined and mature party shoes.

Sabato de Sarno, the new designer at Gucci, kick-started his career at Prada, and it was undeniably Prada’s influence that resonated throughout this collection. Despite his 14-year stint at Valentino and his admiration for Tom Ford’s era at Gucci, the design ethos of knee-length skirts paired with boxy jackets, white tank tops, grey knits, slip dresses complemented by pointed court shoes bore a striking resemblance to Prada’s signature aesthetic. While these designs could have potentially been dull, the impeccable precision and unwavering confidence with which they were executed breathed life and freshness into the collection.

For those ardent fans of Alessandro Michele’s whimsical pearls and rainbow hues, this new direction might feel somewhat uninspiring. However, Sabato de Sarno and the leadership at Kering, the French luxury conglomerate that owns Gucci, are wagering on rekindling a more extensive fan base who are ready to invest in loafers or perhaps even the iconic Jackie handbag. Gucci’s factory reset signals a captivating transition that will undoubtedly leave its mark on the fashion world.


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