Our eyes use a number of muscles to make around 10,000 movements a day, gathering the skin in their vicinity as we smile, squint or widen them in recognition or surprise. Add in the fact the skin is thinner and more sensitive around them and it’s not surprising the area is one of the first to display the signs of age, emotion, allergies or exhaustion.
So yes, despite the divisive nature of eye cream, experts suggest you will benefit from its dedicated use over just blending an extra dab of moisturiser on to your lids and calling it a day.
“The skin around the eye is quite different to skin in other areas on the face,” explains Linda Sharrem, skincare educator for Murad and Caci. “Eye creams are specifically for that thin, delicate skin and are usually a lighter texture as face creams can be too heavy and cause drag. Most are also ophthalmologist tested for sensitivities, irritations and reactions.”
What to look for in an eye cream
We all want a magic eraser to lift dark circles, depuff bags, firm the area and soften fine lines, but most are more targeted than that, working to either produce faster results like minimising the evidence of a big night out (or one crying into your pillow), while others work in the long term treating the likes of dryness or minimising loss of collagen and crinkle wrinkles.
“Choose one that works at producing the results you are wanting to achieve,” advises Sharrem. “For example, Murad’s Renewing Eye Cream targets under eye puffiness while Murad’s Vita-C Eye Dark Circle Corrector specifically targets fragile capillaries that can be a cause of dark circles.”
L-R: Murad Renewing Eye Cream; iS Clinical Youth Eye Complex; Aspect Platinum Eye 4D; Environ Skin EssentiA Antioxidant & Peptide Eye Gel; Image Skincare Ageless Total Eye Lift Crème
Go in tentatively, she insists. “More is not better, in fact it can cause puffiness and milia. Use about a rice grain size and pat around your orbital bone inwards, towards your eye area using your ring finger.”
In terms of items that should jump out from an ingredients label, Sharrem suggests one with a good hydrating base will proffer shea butter or hyaluronic acid. Antioxidants such as Vitamin C are key for brightening, Vitamin A and peptides work on repair, amino acids help with collagen stimulation and essential fatty acids help maintain a healthy protective skin barrier.
Eye appearance medicine options
As the area has a complex network of muscles and arteries, with any injectable treatments there is a risk of serious complications which should be clearly explained to you. Any treatment around the eyes should be carried out by an expert with experience and relevant training.
Dr. Ellen Selkon, cosmetic medicine doctor at Auckland’s Clinic 42, says while crows feet is a standard request easily treated with judicious botulinum toxin, dark circles and hollowing under the eyes are further concerns clients seek solutions for.
“Dark circles can be hereditary or caused by aging and can be one of the most difficult things to treat,” she says. “In some cases it’s possible to place a thin layer of a specific dermal filler under the muscle in the under-eye area to camouflage this darkness. But this is where a good eye cream containing vitamin A can perform wonders over time, thickening the skin and therefore reducing those circles.”
For hollowing and tear trough creases she says dermal filler is the gold standard in mild to medium cases.” However if severe or they have fat prolapse, (a specific major sagging under the eye) surgery is the best option which is why it’s important to get assessed early and by somebody who will refer you to a good oculoplastic surgeon.”
There is one simple step however that has a significant impact on minimising premature aging including lines and pigmentation damage in the eye area.
“With the harsh sun here we should be wearing good sunglasses at all times, as well as a hat and sunblock containing Zinc or Titanium Dioxide to protect your face,” points out Dr Selkon.
