There were striking elements of indigenous heritage infusing the ranges and runway presentations of a number of Māori designers including Kiri Nathan and Campbell Luke.
Creative exuberance, playful manipulations of volume and new takes on New Zealand’s much discussed affinity for all-black outfits were on display in the collections of the newest designers on show.
The understated elegance and feminine twists of the likes of Kate Sylvester (marking an impressive 30 years in business at NZFW) and Juliette Hogan reaffirmed a number of silhouettes likely to be big in the coming months.
And the textural contrasts and smart layering of Zambesi, presented along a staggered Viaduct Harbour waterfront location as the sun set on a stunning later-winter day proved there is still a lot to love about the work of our country’s fashion talent.
It was clear each designer was out to shore up their reputation and design ID after a number of years without traditional catwalk-style presentations. New Zealand fashion has become known for taking the lead in developing it’s own style signature, but there were nonetheless moments of brilliance that could hold their own among shows in the global fashion capitals of New York, Milan, London and Paris and yes, tweaking of trends that are trickling around the globe currently.
In the past August NZFW presentations showcased the upcoming winter ranges of designers, with garments not dropping into stores until the following February. But this year many decided to use the opportunity to speak directly to shoppers – rather than media and buyers – instead, meeting the desire of many wanting to purchase what they have seen on the runway and wear immediately.
It means in many cases, you can shop your fill of the outfits seen on show already. Here are five elements that appeared in a number of collections that will be influential in wardrobes over the coming months:
Mid-riffs and cut-outs on display
One of the most dominant new styling approaches on the runways was created with a number of bra-like tops with layering pieces worn over the top (or sometimes underneath) or abbreviated, often clingy, t-shirt shapes. The look serves to highlight an appealing sliver of skin between the sternum and above the belly button.
Not so sure about the cropped approach? There were plenty of other peek-a-boo shapes revealing a glimpse of what lies beneath, from plunging oversized blazers worn with just a bra beneath, to knitwear with key-hole cut-outs.
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Pink
We know what you’re thinking, but while the idea of Barbiecore might be one influence for the abundance of pink on the runway, the prevalent pink had a slightly cooler, more mauve-tinge to it. Even the softer pink hues that appeared were cut in minimalist shapes or given a slightly more edgy, rather than frou-frou, twist as seen at Zambesi. Rest assured the colour will remain front-and-center for a few more months yet.
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Long Skirts
This one has been creeping into our wardrobes for a couple of seasons now, but shows no sign of going anywhere. From bias-cut and silky, to stiffer, suiting-like fabric, hip hugging skirts that fall to the mid-calf or heel are an easy choice for an occasion your want to dress up for. Bonus points of you tie one into that aforementioned trend of exposing a strip of skin above your waistband.
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White
The crisp hue turned up in abundance in shirting and co-ords sets elsewhere for sure, but it was the combination of feminine shapes, sheer fabrics, eyelet lace and a variety of collar shapes (rounded and sweet or exaggerated and oversize) at Campbell Luke that had everyone talking.
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Soft shine
While metallics are certainly grabbing some attention, particularly in coated leathers and spangly shoes, the shine we’re clamoring for is the elegance of a soft-focus finish. Matte silks amped up with the use of bold red and more structured shapes at J.Bush, or draped and gathered like at Juliette Hogan, convey a chic, quiet luxury that will last far longer than just one season in our wardrobes.
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