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Off the Beaten Track: Revising the runway

It seems like an age ago when fashion runways were about nothing but the clothes. In what can be traced back to Galliano’s visionary outlook for what a show should be about, designers across the globe have embraced the performative aspect, each aiming to outdo the next.

From Chanel to Jimmy Choo, Tommy Hilfiger and Marc Jacobs, fashion shows are getting increasingly creative.

Here are our favourite inspirational runway performances.

Bubble Palace show for Dior Cruise 2016

Le Palais Bulles designed by Antti Levag on the cliffs of Theoule-sur-Mer in the South of France was the location for Dior’s Cruise 2016 collection show.

What’s also cool is that the Bubble Palace is owned by Pierre Cardin who has a connection to Dior. Cardin was a former Head of Atelier Tailleur to Mr Christian Dior before going out on his own.

Christian Dior creative director Raf Simons said it was a place that he had been fascinated by for a number of years and so he was very happy to be able to show here.

“In many ways it is a form of architecture you cannot connect to another,” Simons said.

He described the Bubble Palace as a metaphor for the approach to the collection overall. Looking to the landscape and memory of the South of France and gaining inspiration from the colours, textures and light of Cote d’Azur together with the style of the people who inhabited it.

“I wanted the idea of freedom and individuality to come to the fore in this collection, especially in consideration of the Dior archive,” Simons said. “It is not a heavy concept; it is light and young and there is a literal lightening of this clothing to make it fresh. Much of the design architecture comes from Mr Dior’s manteaux, his coats. But the heavy fabric is stripped away, the scale is played with and elements of their style are ‘collaged’ into other forms and garments.”

Land, sky and seascapes find form in collaged Lurex fabrics and furs are knitted to form tapestry-like structures that further abstract the organic world in scarves and dresses. Homespun crafts and traditional techniques are explored with Simon’s take on crochet, smocking and patchworking; and utilitarian garments contrasted by traditional elegance.

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