We’re a pretty open-minded bunch these days but it stands within reason the idea of putting that on your face or body, might still give you pause.
In reality, the recent interest in colostrum and its potential for use in skincare stems from bovine (cow) sources.
Promising a number of benefits from the natural, bioactive ingredients contains within, colostrum is often referred to as “liquid gold,” and contains vitamins, minerals, and antibodies. The interest in skincare terms comes from a number of molecules thought to play a role in stimulating cell growth, collagen synthesis and tissue repair.
Though wider, long-term research is still needed, the ingredient is gaining a lot of attention globally around its uses for skin. Some studies suggest benefits for hydration, barrier support, visible skin renewal and collagen maintenance.
In Aotearoa New Zealand one new release making the most of the ingredient is Elm Lab, a Kiwi skincare brand founded by Sarah and Will Kirkland, sixth-generation farmers from Otago, New Zealand.
Elm Lab uses A2 colostrum from its own A2-certified cows raised at Elm Grove in the South Island, where the Kirkland family has farmed since 1853.
A2 milk (and colostrum) refers to milk that contains only the A2 protein, which when consumed, may be easier to digest than regular milk containing both A1 and A2 proteins. Though the products used are intended to be applied topically, only natural A2 milk is used in the skincare.
Elm Lab’s first releases are gentle products designed for mothers, babies and families with a baby wash, baby lotion and hand cream. Though with the potential for barrier-supporting skincare and demand for colostrum products on the rise, the brand’s founders have big plans.
What is Colostrum?
Co-founder Sarah Kirkland says the precious ingredient at the heart of the skincare line makes all the difference.
She had regularly heard colostrum called “liquid gold” during calving season, but thought nothing of it until a battle with caring for her son’s skin turned into a lightbulb moment.
” [Our child] Charlie had awful eczema as a baby and we were trying everything – creams, oils, prescriptions and nothing felt quite right. We wanted something gentle, something we could trust.”
At the same time, she was surrounded by colostrum on the farm. “It’s always been part of life here but suddenly, I started looking at it differently. I thought, “what if there’s something in this that could actually help?” That was the spark. From there, we started digging into the science, talking to experts, and slowly building the idea that became Elm Lab.”
How is it used to support skin?
She says colostrum is full of things the “body already knows how to use,” such as proteins, fats, vitamins and minerals.
“That’s why it’s so gentle and effective on skin. It’s not trying to reinvent the wheel, it’s just giving the skin what it already understands.”
For challenged skin, she says colostrum helps support its natural protective layer.
How is it sourced?
The source of this ingredient might have initially raised an eyebrow, but Kirkland is happy to answer questions about its collection. She says calves never go without the essential liquid and their number one priority remains that the calves are well looked after.
“Once they’ve had their fill, we collect what’s naturally left over from the herd,” she explains. “It’s a gentle process and we only take the surplus. That’s always been our non-negotiable.”
She says the cows produce more than they need and in the past this excess went to waste. In what Kirkland calls a “quiet kind of sustainability,” the business is giving the collected colostrum a new life.
“We freeze it straight away to preserve all the bioactive compounds and then we freeze-dry it, so we can use it in our formulations without losing its natural potency.”
Though she is quick to clarify the Elm Lab is not a medical brand, the skin products are simply designed to support dry, sensitive and irritated skin in a gentle, nourishing way. The first products, intended for baby and family have been created with simple formulas free from fragrance, parabens, sulphates and synthetic dyes.
Given the potential, Kirkland is not coy about wider expansion into more adult-focused skincare centered around the natural bioactive ingredient.
“Yes – 100%. Even though we started out with babies in mind, the truth is our formulations are great for all kinds of skin,” she says. “They’ve been dermatologically tested on people with sensitive skin and certified as suitable for all skin types. With the baby range, we went even further. Before anything hit shelves, our Baby Lotion and Baby Wash went through independent safety assessments under EU cosmetic regulations and then were tested under the supervision of a pediatrician and dermatologist. ”
This basis allows confidence in wider use.
“Without giving away too much, we’re already working on the next evolution of Elm Lab, including some exciting new products in the works. Long term, we’ve got big plans. We want Elm Lab to be the go-to colostrum based skincare brand globally.”
