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What are green perfumes? The fresh, verdant scents that eschew floral notes

By MiNDFOOD

What are green perfumes? The fresh, verdant scents that eschew floral notes
Florals are expected for spring in perfumery. But there's another scent approach that also regularly pops up as the warmer weather does: Green fragrances.

Green perfumes are a fragrance family linked by fresh, crisp, and sometimes slightly bitter or herbaceous notes that evoke the scent of nature. Think freshly cut grass, freshly-picked herbs, aromatic leaves and green stems. The combination can recall varying experiences, for example wandering in a forest with dew sparkling on surrounding foliage, or leaning over to pluck a ripe tomato off its fragrant stem.

Generally these perfumes often convey a sense of freshness, vitality, and the outdoors, which is unsurprisingly why many of us reach for them when the weather starts to warm.

L-R: Aēsop Virēre EDP; Maison Margiela Replica From The Garden EDT; Vyrao I Am Verdant; Chanel No 19; Hermès H24 Herbes Vives EDP

The arrival on our desk of the new release from Aēsop, Virēre Eau de Parfum, reminded us how perfect these type of fragrances are for this time of year.

Virēre EDP is a green woody citrus blend, that is calming and serene, like a sun dappled meadow.  Barnabé Fillion, Aēsop’s long-term fragrance collaborator, says he used notes of bergamot, fig and green tea in the blend that reminds him of holidays in the Mediterranean and “times spent cycling on little roads lined with fragrant trees that perfume the air’.

Green fragrances usually give very obvious floral notes a swerve, leaning on plants and herbs as well as clever, lab-developed notes that recreate hard to capture like air, sun and water.

Though generally unisex, some green fragrances are aimed at a masculine buyer, like Hermès recent H24 Herbes Vives EDP, that has fresh herbaceous notes.

L-R: Diptyque Philosykos EDP; Guerlain Herbes Troublantes; Herbae par L’Occitane EDP; Issey Miyake A Drop d’Issey Eau de Parfum Essentielle

 Common notes in green perfumes:

  • Galbanum: A resinous, bitter green note that gives perfumes a sharp, green edge.
  • Violet leaf: Provides a fresh, leafy, and slightly aquatic green note.
  • Basil: Adds an aromatic, slightly spicy green quality.
  • Cucumber: Offers a watery, crisp green note, often used for its refreshing effect.
  • Fig leaf: Brings a milky, slightly sweet green scent with a touch of earthiness.
  • Ivy: A sharp, fresh green note that is slightly metallic.
  • Tea: Green tea notes add a fresh, slightly astringent quality.
  • Mint: Adds a cool, refreshing green note that can also be slightly sweet.

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