Our eyelashes have undeniably claimed their very own beauty category, with mascaras, curlers and false lashes evolving all the time. Now, one subset – eyelash serums – is gaining renewed attention.
With various claims about supporting the health and length of your natural set, it’s fair to wonder if they really do all they imply?
First introduced over a decade ago, initial iterations built upon discoveries made by medication developers working to treat the eye condition glaucoma.
In 2001, Allergan (the company behind Botox) developed a medicated eye drop; soon, patients using this medication also began noticing longer, fuller and darker lashes as a side effect. This led Allergan to study the medication’s active ingredient, bimatoprost, and to create a treatment, Latisse®, specifically for growing longer lashes. The company says it is believed to work by increasing the growth (anagen) phase of the eyelash hair and increasing the number of hairs in this growth phase.
Bimatoprost is one of a group of ingredients called prostaglandins, categorised as medicines and restricted differently in different parts of the world, given their varying uses with varying side effects. With Allergan’s Latisse® eyelash treatment, the potential side effects listed include the potential to permanently change your iris colour, darkening of the eyelid skin and eye irritation.
In the intervening years and with a number of similar products in existence, wider regulations have been introduced. In Australia, any product containing this type of ingredient, regardless of concentration, requires a prescription as regulated by the TGA. In New Zealand, eyelash treatments or serums that contain a prostaglandin ingredient are classified as a cosmetic as long as it is only included in a very low concentration, ie. 10mg per litre or less.
Peptide based lash serums L-R: Milk Makeup Kush Lash & Brow Serum; Lash Fridays Eyelash Serum; Clinique High Impact Lash Amplifying Serum; The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Lash and Brow Serum; Apotcare Optilash Lash Enhancing Serum
These regulations and the potential for side effects have seen the rise of over-the-counter lash treatments and serums often referred to as lash conditioners. They use a combination of specific peptides (chains of amino acids) that support the production of healthy keratin to nourish, condition and strengthen lashes. With further research pinpointing these beneficial peptides, new lash serum arrivals are currently in abundance. Although there are plenty of customer reviews online claiming the appearance of longer lashes can be an end result (and convincing ‘before and after’ photos), these peptide-based serums avoid any direct claims of inciting growth. For example The Ordinary’s new The Ordinary Multi-Peptide Lash and Brow Serum claims to “promote the look of thicker, fuller and healthier lashes”.
Most peptide serums also contain conditioning and moisturising agents and vitamins to keep your lashes healthy and free from brittleness and breakage and reduce fallout. Some also coat each lash, to help with volume. They are generally intended to be applied to the roots of lashes with a tiny brush applicator once or twice a day.
Top Tips
To achieve good results it’s important to remember two points:
- Because they work with the natural growth and shedding cycle of lashes (and every lash is in a different phase) it takes around 6 weeks of regular use to notice a difference in their length and appearance.
- To maintain results you’ll need to keep using it or your length will return to normal as lashes naturally fall out and renew.
