Like many pieces of art, the initial reaction to a piece of Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery often evolves – with surprise and delight – on further consideration.
A bejeweled brooch, a necklace, a ring, not only an extravagant decoration, but also a symbol of cultural change, a delicate or poetic interpretation of an ephemeral moment, or a fluid element brilliantly captured in solid and shimmering state.
It is these ideas you are prompted to ponder while perusing ‘The Art of Movement,’ a new public exhibition in Sydney.
The elegant display, the first of its kind in Oceania, features over a hundred dazzling pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels’ Patrimonial Collection as well as numerous archive documents and illustrations.
The exhibition is curated around the idea of movement, explored in a number of ways from the literal to the abstract, in the fine jewellery creations. Many items date back to the early decades of the house that was founded in 1906 in Paris.
The ways in which the idea of motion is explored are varied: the arabesque of a dancer, the blooming of a flower, the suppleness of a bow or a precious twirl. The common response we can attest however, is that of wonder – at the history, artisanal technique and creativity of each piece.
It’s not often you are privy to this kind of gob-smacking jewellery, more often it is seen from afar. A Christie’s auction on TV perhaps, or adorning the neck of a Oscars attendee. It’s part of what makes a visit so enticing.
The diamond and gem-encrusted works of art are an eye-opening step beyond Van Cleef & Arpels’ more commonly-recognisable pieces – in particular the clover-shaped motif of its Alhambra necklaces and bracelets – and the exhibition is an easily digestible primer to the house’s storied history if you’re keen to dig deeper. With an 120-year-heritage, and given Van Cleef & Arpels has only had stores in Australia for ten years, and New Zealand for three, it’s a great opportunity to learn more.
The display inside the heritage-listed Watersedge at Campbell’s Stores is divided into four sections exploring different facets of the idea of movement. Within the space’s softly undulating walls, you are free to roam rooms devoted to the themes ‘Human Odyssey’, ‘Nature Alive’, ‘Elegance’ and ‘Abstract’.
In ‘Human Odyssey’, marvel at early pieces inspired by a growing interest in travel and exploration, as well as sport and the abilities of the human body. A gold airplane takes off in a plume of jewels around a necklace, an enamel-painted cigarette case features a jockey leaping in motion on the back of a horse, and a ballet dancer poses on pointe, raising a bouquet of ruby blooms while her tutu extends, studded with turquoise.
‘Nature Alive’ features both naturalistic and stylised depictions of flora and fauna. A bird with delicate diamond-studded feathers perches on a branch, a fern unfurls in gold and gems, and petals, though fixed, appear to sway in a non-existent breeze.
‘Elegance’ is where the aura of Van Cleef & Arpels really comes to the fore, in couture fashion details transformed into jewellery. There are tassels, ribbons and bows and a working diamond ‘zip’ necklace that is arguably the show-stopper of the whole collection.
‘Abstract’ is a bit of daring and fun, where the house’s artisans zigged while the world zagged, drawing inspiration from various art periods and optical illusions.
The design of the space is worth a visit alone. You are greeted with an oversized anamorphosis that recalls a flower or bow. A piece trails off into a ribbon that extends through the entire exhibition space, guiding you on a route through each room, though there are knowledgeable hosts available to talk you through the history of each display.
Once you are done, allow a little time to watch the video presentation that allows a little more insight into the history of the collection. What’s more, if you have little ones, look into the special program that includes weekend children’s workshops with paper engineer Benja Harney. ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry Arts is also hosting an evening of discussion with historian, Patricia Zilkha, and jeweller Dorian Marty.
Entry is free, and walk-ins are welcome, though bookings are recommended.
Van Cleef & Arpels: The Art of Movement
Watersedge at Campbell’s Stores
25 Hickson Rd, The Rocks Sydney
Until May 8, 2025
