There are many terms and ingredients associated with skincare products. This is only a basic list. While there are no miracles when it comes to the skin, a clear understanding of how ingredients work will help you select the right skincare products.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) – Naturally occurring acids found in fruit and milk, as well as created artificially, they used topically to smooth skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines. They help speed up the skins natural exfoliation process, helping it shed dead skin cells.
They can improve the texture of the skin, unclog pores and help prevent breakouts. Glycolic and lactic acids are commonly used AHAs.
Anti-ageing – The best anti-ageing formula is a healthy lifestyle. Nothing will stop the clock. Poor diet, excessive drinking, smoking, lack of exercise and sunburn all accelerate the effects of aging. SPF is crucial to help prevent premature aging.
Antioxidants – Compounds that protect skin from damage caused by free radicals, which are unstable molecules generated by factors like UV radiation, pollution, and stress. Free radicals can lead to premature aging, inflammation, and skin damage.
Vitamin A, C and E, betacarotene, green tea, and grape seed extract are all effective antioxidants.
Bakuchiol –Often referred to as a natural alternative to retinol, bakuchiol offers similar benefits (smooth texture, reduced pigmentation, improved elasticity) without the common side effects like redness, dryness, and peeling.
Balms – Super-rich moisturisers that target dry patches of skin on the face, hands, feet and body. Look for ingredients such as avocado extract or shea butter.
Brightener – Makeup products sometimes contain light-diffusing particles and/or ingredients that inhabit oxidation. These are referred to as brighteners.
Ceramides – Great for sensitive and dry skin, ceramides are lipids that help restore and maintain the skin barrier, preventing moisture loss and protecting against environmental irritants.
Cica – also known as Centella Asiatica, it is a plant extract that offers soothing and healing properties. Often referred to as “tiger grass,” Cica is known for its use in traditional medicine and is now popular in skincare, especially in products aimed at sensitive or irritated skin.
Collagen – is a fibrous protein found in the skin. When collagen levels in the skin are high, the skin appears firm. Levels of collagen decline as we age. As the support provided by the collagen is reduced, wrinkles begin to form. Many skincare ingredients and aesthetic treatments like microneedling and inectables aim to stimulate collagen
Emollients – Include squalane, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, glycerin, lanolin, petroleum, shea butter and others. They hold moisture in the skin and make the skin soft and supple.
Exfoliators – are designed to help slough off dead skin cells. Look for AHAs and gentle scrubs specifically designed for the face.
Green tea extract – A powerful antioxidant found in many anti-aging products that may slow down the visible signs of aging.
Humectants – include glycerin, algae extract, sodium hyaluronate, urea, lactic acid and panthenol. They absorb water from the air and help the skin retain moisture.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring substance in the body that acts as a powerful humectant, meaning it helps retain moisture. It’s found primarily in the skin, eyes, and connective tissues, and its main function is to keep these tissues well-lubricated and hydrated. Aging slows the production of this acid, so it is often supplemented as an anti-aging treatment.
It is often used in moisturising skincare and works to hydrate the skin. It is also used as an injectable for creating volume and retaining moisture in skin.
Moisture Barrier – The outermost layer of your skin, also known as the stratum corneum. It is the outer most layer of our skin, covered by a layer of oil and water called the hydrolipidic film. Damage to this barrier can cause dryness, flaking, roughness, irritation and more prominent visibility of fine lines and wrinkles.
Oxidants – are unstable molecules caused by pollution, smoke, ultraviolet light, toxins, and other environmental factors. Also known as free radicals, they attack and damage the skin, leading to aging.
Peptides – Peptides in skincare are short chains of amino acids that serve as the building blocks of proteins, such as collagen, elastin, and keratin, which are essential for maintaining the skin’s structure and strength. In skincare products, peptides help stimulate the skin’s natural production of collagen and other proteins, making them key anti-aging ingredients.
Photo aging – Premature aging of the skin caused by repeated exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, primarily from the sun, but also from artificial sources like tanning beds. This type of aging differs from the natural aging process, which is largely determined by genetics.
Retinoids – (retin-A, retinal) powerful vitamin A derivatives used to promote cell turnover, improve skin texture, and treat a variety of skin concerns like acne, hyperpigmentation, and signs of aging like fine lines.
Inflammation and peeling can be common side effects from use and can last from two weeks to a month. Because Vitamin A makes the skin more sensitive to the sun, use of sunscreen is essential.
It is often recommended pregnant women and those planning a pregnancy should avoid this drug, since it is not known how much is absorbed through the skin and high doses of vitamin A can cause birth defects.
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) commonly used in skincare products for its exfoliating and acne-fighting properties. It’s a type of organic acid derived from willow bark, wintergreen leaves, or sweet birch
Serum – are concentrated, corrective skin treatments that are packed with highly effective active ingredients that address specific skin concerns like dullness and uneven skin tone.
Ingredients commonly found in serums include hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, vitamin A and more. For best results, they should be applied after cleansing and before moisturier.
SPF (sun protection factor) – Measures the degree of protection a product provides against the sun’s UVB rays. The formula used divides the minutes it takes to burn wearing a think application of the product, by the minutes the same person takes to burn without any sunscreen.
Squalane – A lightweight, non-comedogenic oil used in skincare for its excellent moisturising and hydrating properties. Originally, squalane was sourced from shark liver oil (as sharks naturally produce high amounts of squalene), but most modern formulations use plant-based squalane derived from olive oil, sugarcane, or rice bran to offer a more sustainable and ethical option.
Tea Tree Oil – A natural antiseptic and anti-inflammatory ingredient effective for acne-prone skin.
Tyrosinase Inhibitors – Tyrosinase is an enzyme that plays a key role in the synthesis of melanin. When this enzyme is overactive, it can lead to hyperpigmentation issues like dark spots, melasma, and uneven skin tone. By inhibiting tyrosinase, these ingredients help lighten dark spots, brighten the skin, and prevent further pigment formation.
Vitamin B3 (niacinamide) – Is a water soluble vitamin that has become a popular due to its versatility and wide range of benefits for various skin concerns. It is known for its ability to improve the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, minimise pores, and even out skin tone, promoting exfoliation and firmness.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) – is an antioxidant that can reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and create a more even skin tone. It protects skin from environmental pollution and is involved in the formation of collagen and elastin.
Vitamin E – provides antioxidant protection. All the cells in the body contain fatty acids that need protection against oxidation, which causes disease and symptoms of aging.
Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide – Physical sunscreen ingredients that provide broad-spectrum UV protection, suitable for sensitive skin.
