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The science behind Kiwi skincare brand Snowberry

By MiNDFOOD

The science behind Kiwi skincare brand Snowberry

Snowberry’s Radiance Face Serum, created right here in New Zealand, has created waves in the beauty world – if you’ve tried it you’ll know why, and if you haven’t now is the time to add it to your beauty regimen. In a few weeks Snowberry will release its latest skincare creations – Super Serum. We chat to Snowberry’s chief scientist Dr Travis Badenhorst, and find out everything we need to know about the new release.

Can you tell us about the active ingredients used in the new Super Serum?

The Super Serum will contain eProlex™. This is a Snowberry anti-ageing complex of several proven actives that have a range of beneficial effects on skin. eProlex™ contains natural growth factors and peptides that help to stimulate epidermal cell, collagen and fibroblast development; as well as niacinamide – a Vitamin B derivative that helps to counter inflammation, strengthen the lipid barrier and suppress melanin. It also contains the copper tripeptide 1, skin remodelling peptide used in the New Radiance Face Serum.

In addition, the Super Serum will contain powerful anti-oxidants to help reduce free radical damage; and highly effective humectants to provide rapid hydration. Consumers will be able to think of the Super Serum as a multi-pronged attack on the major causes of ageing in skin!

How will it be different to the Radiance Face Serum?

There are two fundamental differences between the Super Serum and the New Radiance Face Serum. First, the New Radiance Face Serum has just two active ingredients – the skin remodelling peptide copper tripeptide 1, and the very effective hydrating humectant, sodium hyaluronate. The Super Serum’s eProlex™ multiplies this functionality substantially.

Second, where the New Radiance Face Serum has a gel (water) base, which gives the very clear and light feel that it has, the Super Serum has an emollient base, which produces the more luxurious feel that some consumers prefer, as well as conferring the skin softening benefit of an emollient.

Consequently, it is fair to say that while the New Radiance Face Serum is a highly functional and very effective anti-ageing serum, the Super Serum simply does more.

There’s remarkable science behind the Radiance Face Serum. Have you taken a similar approach to the new Super Serum?

The success of the New Radiance Face Serum is not based on so-called ‘miracle ingredients.’ Rather, it is a result of five years of development of a unique delivery system. We know which active ingredients will help to repair and rejuvenate skin and so we don’t need to invent these. The real challenge is in being able to deliver them into the skin where they can do their job and the CuPEP™ technology that Snowberry developed for this purpose is world-first. However, we did not have the option of making the New Radiance Face Serum an emollient serum and this is what our most recent science has achieved. We can now carry virtually any active ingredient into the skin, but in an emollient base. This is the breakthrough we wanted for the Super Serum.

The man behind the skincare science, Dr Travis Badenhorst.

Tell us a little about the gold standard trials. Will this be applied to the new Super Serum?

In our view, consumers of anti-ageing skin care need a truly objective way of deciding whether they are buying marketing puffery or an authentic product. The gold standard clinical trial is the only truly independent and scientifically valid way of providing that evidence. Consequently, the Super Serum will also be subject to a gold standard clinical trial at a leading French dermatological institute. And because it is a gold standard trial, not only will we be unable to fudge the results (even if we were so inclined), but we will make that trial available to any customer who wishes to see it. Incidentally, it is because the New Radiance Face Serum’s effectiveness was proven by gold standard clinical trial, that it was the only anti-ageing serum on earth invited to be presented to the 23rd World Congress of Dermatology, and has now been reported in the prestigious international Journal of Aging Science.

What innovative ingredients are you excited about seeing in skincare in the future?

Essentially, an anti-ageing product that is targeting smoother skin needs to be able to reduce epidermal water loss, strengthen the cellular matrix and also limit damage to the cellular matrix – including that engendered by chronic low level inflammation. Ironically, there are many wonderful anti-ageing ingredients, particularly peptides, growth factors and vitamins available to skin care formulators right now that will provide these benefits. As mentioned though, while it is relatively simple to mix these ingredients into a product, it is extremely difficult ensuring those ingredients won’t just sit uselessly on top of the skin or simply degrade in the product before it’s even used. That’s where the kind of University science that Snowberry has been doing for several years is so important.

 

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