Longevity is a buzzword in beauty right now, and Elizabeth Barbalich knows all about it.
Not only can she delve into what it means for skin health, but staying at the forefront of the industry for more than 20 years is an impressive feat in itself.
Barbalich founded Antipodes in New Zealand in 2004 with a desire to create exceptional results-driven skincare using natural ingredients. At the time, the two were mutually exclusive.
“There were no natural brands tackling a really robust 360-degree approach not only to scientific ingredients but formulations that are end-tested through in vitro testing,” she says. This is done by Antipodes using a third-party laboratory to look at the product’s effects on human skin cells in a lab to understand their impact on things like the skin’s collagen, inhibiting oxidative stress or supporting elastin production.
With a Bachelor of Science, an MBA, and qualifications as a naturopath, she found the answer was obvious. “Why wouldn’t I go into that space where I can do something that’s more cutting-edge, efficacy-focused, competing with synthetic brands but utilising the best natural compounds?” she says.
The modern skincare range now includes all the skin heroes known for nourishment and renewal such as peptides, ceramides, Vitamins A and C, and some impressive innovations such as a potent antioxidant from Marlborough sauvignon blanc grape seeds. “I love the challenge of: ‘It can’t be done, but I’m going to do it’,” says Barbalich.
This mindset has informed Antipodes’ newest category: haircare.
The brand’s new hair range includes three shampoo and conditioner duos – Repair & Nourish, Smooth & Hydrate, and Volume & Shine – plus a nourishing hair mask. Each bottle is smooth as a riverstone, inspired by the look and feel of pounamu (New Zealand greenstone).
“I have a folder in my office labelled ‘Hair Care Research’ that dates back to 2011,” says Barbalich. She put it on hold due to a lack of innovative ingredients capable of delivering natural, professional-grade haircare but revisited it several years ago.
Following extensive development and consumer testing involving more than 600 participants of varying hair types and ethnicities, the products were ready.
Each is formulated to work from the scalp outward. Barbalich says the focus of traditional haircare has been on the appearance and feel of strands alone, but caring for each hair’s follicle can deliver lasting benefits.
“I’ve never heard a hairdresser say to me, ‘Do you want to improve the health of your hair?’ I think that’s where the missing link is. I think there’s an opportunity to educate people on how hair grows.”
She says healthy hair begins at that follicle, where new strands are formed in the anagen (growth) phase. Blood flow delivers essential nutrients that build keratin, the structural protein of hair. Protecting and reinforcing these keratin chains helps with strength, smoothness and shine.
Clinically proven bioactives have been selected to support these processes while addressing other hair concerns. For example, a seaweed extract restores damaged cuticles (the surface structure) and enhances shine, while black maca peptides help with the follicle’s supply of nutrients. Safflower oleosomes provide an alternative to silicones, slowly releasing Vitamin E and essential fatty acids along each strand to tame frizz.
“Hair on your head can last up to eight years for a hair strand, so you really want to look after it. For women, any oestrogen disruptor, like contraceptives, postpartum, pre-menopause and menopause, has an effect on the strength of your hair, how thick and strong your hair grows.”
The good news is that hair health can often be improved. “In many cases you can turn around a pretty diabolical situation [where people have lost a lot of hair].”
Going forward, she remains focused on innovation while staying true to her principles of scientific green beauty, rather than chasing trends. “We want to create hero products that have a long life.”
Two of her initial products (Avocado Pear Collagen-Boosting Night Cream and Kiwi Seed Oil Eye Cream) remain bestsellers more than two decades on, proving the ingredient and sensorial mix was right all along. Longevity indeed.
