Washington, DC is a city to have on your bucket list for obvious reasons. But beyond the political beacons and renowned museums is a vibrant beating heart comprising cafes and restaurants showcasing innovative cuisine, cool cocktail bars and craft breweries, and shops and green spaces that give the US capital a distinct local flavour.
Here, Kate Armstrong, author of Beyond the Monuments in Washington, DC, offers up a one-day ‘Constitutional Capers’ itinerary to take in some of the city’s many must-visit attractions while also experiencing not-to-be-missed eateries and bars.
Your constitutional caper
This route incorporates the landmarks around the National Mall that are most linked to American history and governance – with a special focus on the power of words. It constitutes a solid day of sightseeing, though the biggest sights come first, so you can stop at lunchtime if you prefer. Be sure to schedule tours and timed tickets online beforehand.
8:30AM After reserving for the day’s first tour, arrive early at the US Capitol to go through airport-style security; bring only a small bag, and no food or drink, including water. Enter into the visitor centre, which occupies 54,000m2 underground on the building’s eastern side. Your visit starts in Emancipation Hall, dedicated to the enslaved workers who helped build the Capitol. At the centre is the original plaster model for Freedom Triumphant in War and Peace, the colossal bronze figure that tops the Capitol dome.
After a short video on Congress and its role in American democracy, you’ll join a docent for a 45-minute tour through several key spaces in the building: the Rotunda, the ‘crypt’ below, and a hall of statues gifted by the states. Depending on crowds, you might also get to visit the small chamber that first served as the Senate.
After your tour, explore the rest of Emancipation Hall, along with Exhibition Hall, which houses modern displays about Congress, the Capitol, and how the three branches of government interact.
10:00AM From the Capitol visitor centre, walk through an underground tunnel to the Library of Congress Thomas Jefferson Building. Alternatively, you can head there aboveground (a five-minute stroll east across 1st Street).
The Jefferson Building is the most beautiful of the national library’s three buildings. Wander through the magnificent gilded Italian Renaissance– style hall, gaze up at the masterful dome in the main reading room, check out the replica of Jefferson’s library, and admire some very, very old books.
12:00PM If you’re up for a 30-minute walk, head off the Mall: north up 1st Street, northwest on Constitution Ave,
and north again on 7th Street. Here you’ll find Peruvian eatery China Chilcano, good if you want to dine in.
But if the weather is fine for a picnic, you can opt for Bindaas Bowls (sister eatery to Bindaas) for takeout, then make the short walk back south on 7th Street to Constitution Avenue and the National Gallery of Art’s sculpture garden and enjoy an alfresco meal surrounded by famous statues.
1:30PM A massive neoclassical building just north of the sculpture garden, across Constitution Avenue, the National Archives Museum displays America’s fundamental documents: the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution, and the Bill of Rights. Allow additional time to peruse the absorbing publ ic vaults, full of interactive displays of documents, photos, and recordings.
3:00PM Outside the National Archives, head north on 9th Street then left (northwest) on Pennsylvania Avenue. On the left just before the corner of 12th Street is the Waldorf Astoria DC Hotel, a landmark since it opened as DC’s main post office in 1899. It was later redeveloped as a hotel by former US president Donald Trump, who sold the lease after he left office; it rebranded in 2022.
The building’s tall clock tower (open 9am–3:45pm daily) is run by the National Parks Service; enter on 12th Street, across from the Federal Triangle Metro station, to take the glass elevator to the top for excellent views.
3:30PM Walk one block farther on Pennsylvania Avenue and turn right (north) on 13th Street. Ten minutes straight on, at K Street, is Planet Word, an interactive museum dedicated to the world’s languages that will have you not only reading, but also shouting and singing.
5:00PM Time to analyse all those words you’ve absorbed – perhaps with the aid of a strong drink. You may choose to head for cocktail bar Jane Jane, a 20-minute walk north, at 14th Street and R Street, and from there to a plethora of restaurants on the same strip. Or walk half a mile east on K Street and jog north on 7th Street to Morris American Bar, then finish up with a Georgian meal at Supra, a few blocks back northwest, at M Street and 11th Street.
Where to eat
CHINA CHILCANO
Fabulous Peruvian cuisine, in all its fusion glory.
One of the best of the many restaurants run by DC’s kitchen guru José Andrés, this eatery showcases the multicultural heritage of Peru through its intertwined traditions of comida criolla (influenced by Spain and Africa), Chinese-inflected chifa dishes, and Japanese-style nikkei cuisine. What that means in practice: nigiri served on a bed of causa (mashed Peruvian potatoes) rather than rice, Pacific wild shrimp with fermented black beans, or a pot of crispy fried rice with pork belly.
The large industrial-chic space is filled with red Edison(ish) light bulbs, fabulous murals, and Tolix chairs. But discreet seating areas keep it cosy. Book ahead to secure a table, but if you haven’t, the place is big enough that if you turn up early, you should be able to snare a spot.
BINDAAS
Delicious high-end Indian street food at low-end prices.
Upmarket Indian snacks are the mission of this cheerful corner spot. Bindaas is in the stable of Ashok Bajaj, who made his name with the excellent Rasika, and it has similarly high quality, though with a more casual approach. Dishes hail from all over India, with samosas, chaat (savoury snacks), buns and kebabs, plus a few more substantial dishes like chicken tikka masala and vegetable korma. The dahi papdi chaat (with chickpeas and pomegranate seeds) and pao bhaji (buns with veggie stew) alone are worth the pilgrimage here. The price-to-quality ratio is among the best in DC. An even cheaper, fast-casual spot is Bindaas Bowls and Rolls, at 415 7th Street NW.
JANE JANE
Retro cocktail bar with smart ’50s-throwback vibes.
You can’t help but smile at the décor of this cosy cocktail bar, with its mélange of full-on fun and breezy style: plaid-pattern mosaic tiles, teak-coloured trim, and vintage-look wallpaper that could make you scream, “Classic cocktail, please!” (Indeed, the volume can be quite high here, partly because of the youngish crowd, and partly due to the lack of soundproofing.)
Classics such as martinis and Last Words feature strongly on the menu, but so too do 12 or so creative house riffs on staples. Gin lovers, don’t go past the Gin-Soaked Felon, a concoction with elderflower, grapefruit and Americano. Then, sit back, cradle your mid-century- style glass, and enjoy a retro snack (pig in a blanket, anyone?). Service is attentive and welcoming. The place doesn’t take reservations, so it’s a good idea to nab a seat early for happy hour (Monday to Thursday, 5pm to 7pm), when wines and beers are $6 and cocktails are $10.
MORRIS AMERICAN BAR
Pretty, classy cocktail bar with a (non)- Prohibition purpose.
It’s no coincidence that this gorgeous bar – all pale blue and gray, with quirky picture frames and comfortable seating – oozes discreet elegance: Its vision is all about the Prohibition era, when drinkers were forced by law into secret boozing. The name is a nod to Morris Sheppard, the senator responsible for the short-lived 18th Amendment, which banned alcohol in the United States – but also inspired a creative decade of cocktail invention. In honour, two caricatures of Morris and his wife hang on the wall.
Naturally, classic cocktails are available, but the ever-changing menu highlights quirky tropical numbers and even (1920s bootleg tipplers would be shocked!) spirit-free cocktails. Taco Tuesdays double as Tinder Tuesdays, when youngish hopefuls come for $10 cocktails and a romantic vibe; happy hour is 5pm to 7pm on Wednesdays and Thursdays.
SUPRA
Fresh-flavoured Georgian food + contemporary setting = satisfying surprise.
This sophisticated Georgian restaurant ticks the boxes for quality and authentic cuisine. Its interior is a standout too: modern wooden panelling, a stunning terrazzo floor, and quirky décor, such as hanging traditional hats.
In Georgian, ‘supra’ is the word for a feast accompanied by numerous toasts to family and friends and life. Appropriately, the restaurant is renowned for its list of Georgian wines. And no feast is complete without khachapuri, the signature Georgian bread filled with cheese and runny egg. Try shareable plates such as nigvzit, eggplant slices rolled up with a paste of walnut, garlic and pomegranate. The best deal is the three-course, one-hour business lunch for $25. A generous happy hour runs weekdays from 3pm to 7pm, and to 5pm on weekends.
Extracted from Beyond the Monuments in Washington, DC by Kate Armstrong (Hardie Grant Explore, $38).
