The Future Of Fashion’s ‘It’ Bag: How Desires Around What To Carry Are Changing

By MiNDFOOD

There’s been a noticeable move away from overt branding. Many buyers are favouring quieter alternatives such as the Fendi Peekaboo (pictured). Photo / Getty Images
There’s been a noticeable move away from overt branding. Many buyers are favouring quieter alternatives such as the Fendi Peekaboo (pictured). Photo / Getty Images
For years the fashion industry has thrived on the idea of the “It bag” a single must-have style that defined a moment before quickly being replaced.

That cycle has slowed, in its place is a more measured approach where the bags that matter are the ones that endure.

You can see it in the resale economy. The styles that continue to command attention and serious money aren’t new releases but long-established designs like the Hermès Birkin and Hermès Kelly. Decade after decade they’ve been subtly updated rather than overhauled which has only reinforced their status.

The Chanel 2.55 Flap Bag operates in much the same way; familiar, consistent and largely unchanged since its debut in 1955.

The way people use bags has also evolved. Larger, softer silhouettes don’t always align with the practical demands of everyday life where lighter, more compact options tend to win out. That shift is reflected not just globally, but locally too.

From top: Chanel’s 2.55; Hermès Picotin and Fendi’s Peekaboo handbag.

Across Australia and New Zealand a number of accessories brands have been building momentum with a focus on functionality and restraint.

Names like Deadly Ponies and Yu Mei have carved out a niche for clean, highly wearable designs while Australian labels including Oroton and Sans Beast are gaining traction for their emphasis on responsible materials and everyday versatility. Rather than chasing seasonal relevance these brands are designing with longevity in mind, much like their European counterparts.

There’s also been a noticeable move away from overt branding. Many buyers are favouring quieter alternatives.

The original version of the Chanel 2.55 as conceived by Coco Chanel, the understated Hermès Picotin instead of a Birkin or the pared-back Fendi Peekaboo over more logo-driven styles. At the same time, the idea that handbags are reliable investment pieces is starting to lose momentum.

While certain rare styles still command premium prices, the broader resale market has cooled, with many once hard-to-source bags now trading below retail.

That recalibration has opened the door for a wider mix of brands to gain visibility.

Labels such as Polène and DeMellier are resonating with shoppers looking for quality without the traditional luxury markup and crucially designs that won’t feel dated within a year. In a market that’s increasingly skeptical of the new-for-new’s-sake that kind of history carries weight.

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