Along with eye cream, night cream is one of those classic beauty ‘must-haves’ that has lapsed in popularity in recent years.
The reason? Advanced technology has focused on creating skin treatment molecules delivered mostly via thinner textures like serums, as well as consumer desires driving development for moisturisers with weightless textures to be used at both ends of the day.
It has meant rich creams and overnight skin treatments haven’t been a talking point for a while, but there are a number of reasons why what we put on our face at night is important.
The good news is, a new era is seeing brands take on board these innovations and texture updates, creating modern before-bed treatments for our skin.
Beauty in bed
With the pace of life, rest and relaxation is a priority and many of us find our bed a sanctuary. Sleep hygiene is a talking point, as when our body is fully at rest, important natural biological processes take place, including in our skin.
“During the night, skin cells go into repair mode, helping to regenerate by repairing daytime damage, boosting hydration and promoting proliferation of fresh, new cells, as well as peaking collagen
production,” explains Gemma Rogers, National Education Manager for Estée Lauder. She says skin reaches its peak reparative state between 10pm and midnight. “Interruptions to this, thanks to a
lack of sleep, has a profound effect on the overall look of skin, as skin won’t be able to fulfil its nightly repair process as optimally, so this will increase the look of dullness, fine lines and wrinkles.”
What’s more, she says these helpful processes become slowed as we age, so skin needs all the help it can get.
“The ageing process and skin’s circadian rhythm are definitely intertwined and affect each other; as ageing can be accelerated by circadian rhythm disruptions and vice versa. This desynchronisation of skin cells results in increased free radical production, a decrease in collagen production and an increase of skin inflammation, which all lead to the look of ageing on skin.”
Inadequate or compromised sleep can weaken the skin barrier and lead to dryness, irritation and inflammation. All of this shines a spotlight on how products that can support our skin at night, as well as help us get better quality zees are useful.
L-R: Murad Retinal ReSculpt Overnight Treatment; La Mer The Rejuvenating Night Cream; Weleda Contouring Night Cream; Emma Lewisham Supernatural Sleeping Mask; Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Overnight Treatment; Kester Black Peachy Dreams Lip Mask
Overnight skin treatments to try
While the new treatments – more on them in a moment – are clever, if skin is still carrying the day’s detritus, there’s less chance of them providing good results. “Cleansing the skin
at night is an important step in the overall look and health of skin,” confirms Rogers.
“If night-time cleansing is regularly skipped, possible challenges include breakouts caused by clogged pores from dirt, bacteria and pollutants, dryness and dullness, eye irritation from eye makeup that could migrate into eyes during sleep and even susceptibility to skin infections.”
Once skin is clean, overnight treatments can get to work.
Of all the expert-recommended ingredients, retinoids are most renowned for skin rejuvenation, so including a related product in your routine is always a great idea. They work to increase cell turnover, improving the appearance of acne, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and uneven texture.
Newer formulations, including those that use retinal, are gentle and quick to get to where they can be utilised within skin. La Mer’s new night cream hones in on MRA-3, a marine retinol alternative with renewal properties for a fresher look, and also promises to help with skin’s density.
Peptides also signal to your skin to make more collagen and elastin so they are also popular in newer night treatments.
The skin’s natural protective barrier, or stratum corneum, has been a huge focus of skincare development in recent years, including how the barrier works to help skin at night. Rogers says the barrier is more permeable at night, leading to increased moisture loss. Ingredients that reinforce this barrier have therefore become integral to night-time skincare products, helping skin hold onto important moisture.
Estée Lauder’s new Advanced Night Repair Overnight Treatment aims to help in this regard. It’s a new addition to the brand’s night-time line, including the famous night repair serum in
the brown bottle. The silky, ‘second-skin’ treatment contains a specific peptide used for repair, as well as lipids that support barrier function and multiple molecular weights of hyaluronic acid. Applied over serum, it is intended to lock in hydration as well as boost skin’s energy and smooth lines and wrinkles. Like many newer night masks and treatments, it’s meant to be applied as a last skincare step and left on overnight.
For skin that looks plump and healthy, Emma Lewisham’s Supernatural Sleeping Mask is another great option. A fetching lavender colour that blends away quickly, it contains hydrating complexes, lipids and an advanced ceramide to deliver and maintain skin moisture, while supporting the skin.
These mask-like treatments are great when skin is feeling tired and parched. The same can be said for the similar approach being taken with lip care. Laneige’s Lip Sleeping Masks in the colourful pots are popular, but we also like Dermal Therapy’s Overnight Lip Repair, Lanolips 12 Hour Overnight Lip Mask and Kester Black’s Peachy Dreams Lip Mask.
Beyond hydration, if dullness is an issue, look for one that provides a gentle peel or exfoliation effect like Pure Fiji Glycolic Overnight Renewal Peel.
