In the early 1970s, the first big wave of grape planting in Marlborough began spearheading dramatic agricultural change for the region, paving the way for a thriving wine industry for the next fifty-plus years. Before that time, it was land largely used for farming crops, myriad fruits, and forestry. Today, although Marlborough is a mix of sheep, beef, deer and dairy farming, forestry and edibles from olives to stone fruits, from the late 1980s through to today it has become best known for its grape and wine sector.
Marlborough is an outstanding example of wine success stories – from the very small to large scale. As New Zealand’s largest wine region, it has built its global reputation on growing and producing sauvignon blanc. Plantings of Müller-Thurgau were the norm in the early days however when sauvignon blanc showed its power and proclivity to produce a unique style for the region, it became the most widely planted.
These days, as well as sauvignon blanc, there is fine chardonnay and pinot noir, as well as some of the best méthode traditionnelle, riesling, pinot gris, syrah and rosé expressions. Also growing throughout the region are the philosophies of holistic farming through bio-dynamism, organics, and biodiversity.
You can fly into the region directly from elsewhere in NZ, drive after a ferry ride from Wellington into Picton, or from either east and west coasts. Marlborough offers fantastic food at Arbour Restaurant and Harvest, addictive treats at Makana Confections, fishing and dolphin spotting in the Sounds, boating and island sanctuaries. Check out the collection of Great War aircrafts and artifacts at the Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre, as well as land safaris and biking. Marlborough is a gateway to the Queen Charlotte Sound/Tōtaranui hiking, boating and whale-watching in the Kaikoura coastal areas. The region also hosts many wine events, attracting attendees from near and far.
Spoilt for choice
Marlborough is home to multiple renowned wine producers including Cloudy Bay, Clos Henri, No.1 Family Estate, Nautilus, Rimapere, Catalina Sounds, Dog Point, Te Whare Ra, Hans Herzog, Hunter’s and Saint Clair. There are over 150 wine producers and over 400 wine growers. Nautilus Estate is an excellent example of sustainability and longevity in the region and a producer that has grown and developed its wine styles to become one of the most respected. The nautilus shell on the label is instantly recognisable, a link to some of the company’s philosophy of form and a natural balance in their wines. Established in 1985 by the Hill-Smith family, sauvignon blanc was their first release and remains a key variety for the company. Over the next 40 years six key vineyard sites were developed to grow chardonnay, pinots noir and gris, albariño, rosé and méthode traditionnelle, plus a range of sauvignons blanc that capture the voice of site and adventure.
At the helm of winemaking since 1998 is Clive Jones. An industrial chemist, Jones completed a degree in wine science before working at Selaks Wines then moving to Marlborough. Like many winemakers, he spent time working in Burgundy to help shape his understanding of one of the great wine regions of the world. He brought the best of that learning back to New Zealand and shaped the pinot noir program at Nautilus. Jones is also general manager of a talented team that includes winemaker Tim Ritchie and leading viticulturist Mike Collins, along with a knowledgeable crew working at the cellar door and throughout the winery.
Time to sample
At the cellar door on Rapaura Road, the team have all the current release wines for sampling. Start with the flagship sauvignon blanc. The current release is the 2025 with varietal power and punch in the bouquet, aromas of fresh pear and cape gooseberry, white pineapple and fresh basil. It’s a just dry wine with a plush, fleshy mouthfeel, backbone of acidity and delicate saline effect. The Paper Nautilus is exceptional – a modern expression fermented in 3,000-litre French oak foudres (barrels), the wine is pure and saline, concentrated yet delicate.
Catalina Sounds, too, is renowned for its sauvignon blanc. When asked what excited him most about the future of Marlborough wine, Catalina Sounds winemaker Matt Ward had this to say: “We’re only just starting to figure out what this place can do. Sauvignon Blanc will always be our heart, but pushing into other varieties like chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot gris are becoming more than complementary as we strive for legacy status, one that is the sum of all its parts, not simply one core varietal.
“For New Zealand wine more broadly, I’m excited that the industry is maturing – unfortunately that does come with growing pains as we’re seeing now,” said Ward. “Also, the shift to something that is more than just a regional expression – treating subregions as genuinely different places chases something unique, and that can outlast any one vintage, or any one winemaker.”
The Nautilus sparkling wine program began in the late 1980s with the first release in 1991. I recall sitting in the audience when their méthode traditionnelle won Wine of the Show at the Air NZ Wine Awards in 2013. It is 70% pinot noir, 30% chardonnay with a minimum 36 months on lees. The current release of rosé sparkling, the 2021 is a wine of complexity and intrigue. Aromas and flavours of baked goods from oatmeal to fresh bread then a mix of stone fruits and citrus, raspberry and cherry. It is crisp, saline, salivating and dry.
I could list 20 great pinot noir producers throughout Marlborough: from Te Whare Ra to Fromm, Mahi to Blank Canvas, Cloudy Bay to Marisco, the styles and range are incredible. The Nautilus Southern Valleys Pinot Noir, for me, is an exemplar of site expression and a benchmark for the region. Complex, varietal, pure, ripe fruited, mineral and enticing. A delicious wine from start to finish with a core of red berry fruits, but it’s more than this with scents of synergy and development, wildflowers and forest berries, a clay earth and windblown soil quality. Flavours and textures offer synergy and mystery, intrigue and power.
Likewise, chardonnay from the region has many fine producers, including from those listed above plus Saint Clair and Hunter’s, Jackson Estate and Framingham. The Nautilus style has a wonderful signature of ripe citrus and melon laced with a combination of lees and barrel spices, fresh yellow peach and butter brioche.
Near the southern end of Rapaura Road in the Wairau Valley subregion of Marlborough, you’ll find the entrance to the beautifully presented 24-hectare vineyard property, Rimapere. Meaning ‘five arrows’ in te reo Māori, Rimapere is planted almost entirely with sauvignon blanc. Two single vineyard expressions of sauvignon blanc come from this site. The white labelled wine delivers a classic bouquet with piercing scents of ripeness and freshness, a mix of pineapple and sage, stony soils and apple, passionfruit and a touch of white peppercorn-spice. A satin texture and backbone of acidity locks in flavour and mineral that mingle with fruit, sage and fresh herb, with a lick of cape gooseberry and bell pepper.
The second expression, ‘Plot 101’, is a remarkable wine from a smaller 2.4 hectare section of the vineyard. Its first vintage release was 2020 and it bears a distinctive black label with aqua-green text. It boasts a rich bouquet of power and intensity, core fruit flavours and winemaking expression of lees and freshness, white flowers, apple and lemon, pineapple and echoes of barrel spice all delivering shape, form and complexity. A backbone of acidity contrasts a satin-cream mouthfeel. Barrel-ferment and aging portions of this wine held in puncheons deliver a seam of wood spice and complexity.
Rimapere is owned by the Edmond de Rothschild family. Originally founded in 2012 by the late Baron Benjamin de Rothschild, the 24-hectare Marlborough estate produces premium Sauvignon Blanc and is managed by the family’s luxury wine division, Edmond de Rothschild Heritage.
As CEO of Edmond de Rothschild, Ariane de Rothschild has helped transform the company since joining. Along with her late husband Benjamin, she has been key in the acquisition and development of the Rimapere wine project. The five arrows that feature on the labels of the Edmund de Rothschild Rimapere wines represent the French link with New Zealand.
Whichever wineries you choose to visit, it’s impossible to go wrong in Marlborough wine country. Be sure to explore more than just the vineyards. The region’s rich landscapes and coastal beauty pair perfectly with its acclaimed wine experiences.
Secret life of bees
Marisco Vineyards’ Marlborough property, Leefield Station, combines vineyards with a working sheep and beef station. The station also produces limited-batch mānuka honey alongside its premium wines crafted with a strong focus on sustainability. Jeff Haycocks (above) shares fresh honey from a honeycomb.
A glass act
Sauvignon blanc was the first wine produced by Nautilus Estate in 1985. Today one of the region’s benchmark wines, it is celebrated for its purity, intensity and balance. It showcases vibrant citrus, passionfruit and tropical fruit flavours, anchored by crisp acidity and mineral notes, resulting in a fresh, elegant wine with impressive length and complexity.
