The idea of a British meal makes all sorts of iconic dishes spring to mind.
If you instantly think of bubble & squeak, mushy peas, a lamb roast or Beef Wellington – you’ll have some idea what’s on the menu at new restaurant The James.
However, it’s a refined and slightly playful take on these classics, served in a twist on a traditional British dining room, that inform the new spot just opened within The Langham hotel in Sydney.
The James celebrates British dining rituals and heritage, giving them a modern sense of theatre. Retro flourishes and whimsical details abound, from the frilled curtains to the silver service trays and metal martini glasses, but it doesn’t feel stuffy, just elegant and fun.
That theatre comes in the form of beef wellington carved tableside on antique silverware, or a similarly constructed-at-your-seat Knickerbocker Glory, the classic British ice cream sundae.
The James is the new creation of hospitality group SRG, also behind Akti, Sails Lavender Bay, The Nielsen, Noi and The Fenwick. This means while the inspiration is old school, you can rely on the style and flavours to be top notch.
“I want people to experience my love for British cuisine,” says head chef Sam Tuchband (ex Trinity London, Aria, and Franca). “We have designed a menu where guests can visit time and time again and discover something new with each visit,” he says.
Shaped by his time working in London, Tuchband revives familiar dishes with style. While some remain faithful to tradition, others have been subtly reimagined, such as sticky toffee pudding delivered as a soufflé.
Also on the menu at the 120-seat restaurant? Sydney rockefeller oysters, lobster Arnold Bennett, or Welsh rarebit pain perdu for starters, before moving on to heritage lamb with leek and anchovy, short rib of beef with Kampot pepper, or fallow deer with brassicas and berries. Seasonal game, including venison and pigeon, will rotate through the menu, while seafood dishes showcase local catches.
For dessert? No British menu would be complete without a layered Eton Mess, here with long pepper and Shropshire Blue.
The lively and inventive cocktail menu can’t be missed either.
As for those sumptuous interiors, they’re the creation of Perry Drakopoulos. Bold colour, layered pattern, sumptuous upholstery and mosaic tile all come together beautifully, giving a clear nod to the inspiration, while still feeling desirable and contemporary.
The James is open now at The Langham, Kent Street, Millers Point, Sydney.
