Friends look askance when I say I’m going on a cruise. I know what they’re thinking. Haven’t you hitchhiked in China, visited Iran, and driven through Japan? And yes, I have. But in this speeded-up, problem-struck, increasingly worrying world, sometimes I crave the easy option.
Few of us have a billionaire’s lifestyle, but we can enjoy its indulgences for a while. Don’t we deserve some ultimate downtime? I don’t want to think, or tidy up, or shop, or work out where I’m going. I don’t want jet lag.
All I want to do is pop champagne, ring for a butler, and have a good Berkshire pork chop somewhere pleasant with a sea breeze. So I’m upping anchor and sailing out of my hometown of Sydney on Silver Muse, and already I’m feeling this is a smart decision.
This mid-sized Silversea ship carries 596 guests. It has spacious public areas and expansive decks with an impressive range of onboard amenities such as a spa, casino, multiple bars and wide choice of restaurants. Yet there’s no crowding or claustrophobia: I feel like I’m on a tycoon’s yacht.
Would a tycoon be visiting Newcastle? Perhaps not, but the sail-in is unexpectedly wonderful. The ship slips past beaches, promenades and fortifications. A day in this breezy sea-gazing city shakes off my big-city stresses, and then I’m back onboard, and my only worry is where to dine.
Silver Muse has eight dining venues – plus a café – providing more choice than any other luxury vessel this size: Japanese, French fine dining, Asian fusion, and superior steaks and seafood at my favourite, Atlantide.
Sailing out of Newcastle, I opt for Italian at La Terrazza; the Pappardelle with Duck Ragout is a stand out. Next night I’m at The Grill, whose outdoors informality is right on trend. I cook my own shrimps and steak on a hot rock. Conversation murmurs, swimming-pool water sloshes, and the stars gleam.
As we sail up the Queensland coast, the pure holiday feeling takes over. A day in chic Noosa: what’s not to like? Next day, an excursion takes me to Lake McKenzie (Boorangoora) on K’gari (Fraser Island), a couple of days later to Whitehaven Beach in the Whitsundays, all without my having to think of a thing.
At all these places, white sand collides with sapphire sea swirled with peacock colours. Onboard, the décor is more muted: an elegant brown and cream palette in surrounds of suave, understated luxury.
Silver Muse has little bling and not much razzmatazz, unless you count the casino, Silver Notes jazz bar, or the feathered evening theatre entertainment. I don’t mind. This is a tranquil ship for quiet people looking for downtime in splendid, ever-changing destinations.
Guests are content to flop on loungers by the turquoise-tiled pool, wallow in a hot tub, or be pummelled in the spa. The spa has a low-lit Mood Room, but the whole ship lulls me into indolent bliss. I like kicking back with a proper Illy coffee and lemon tart in Arts Café, Australia slipping by beyond the windows. Or having a beer in Dolce Vita bar as the piano tinkles.
Indolence is bliss
My only question is whether I have enough room for a Grand Marnier Soufflé after dinner. My butler Lori makes every other decision for me. Lori politely suggests my shoes need polishing, replenishes my towels, tidies my books. The greatest luxury is doing nothing, and on Silver Muse I can. One night, Lori spreads out a white starched tablecloth and serves me filet mignon from the seven-page in-room dining menu; I don’t even need to totter to a restaurant.
Would I like a shore excursion to Magnetic Island? Of course. My butler delivers my ticket, and next morning I’m off to admire koalas and scenery, and slurp ice cream on the waterfront. As we sail out of Townsville, I’m ensconced in a blue armchair in the Panorama Lounge, nibbling on canapés and watching the sun collapse behind the coast.
Then all I have to do is fall asleep in my Deluxe Veranda suite, on a bed with Pratesi linen, marshmallow pillows, enjoying comfort that would suit the fussiest pea-worried princess. Next morning, I’m tucking into omelette and freshly baked bread on the deck at La Terrazza as the green hills of Cairns approach and I couldn’t be happier.
Photography: Silversea; Tourism and Events Queensland.
