A major part of skincare innovation in the coming years will be brands looking to pinpoint the remarkable abilities of plant-derived ingredients and maximising these abilities with the latest science.
Indeed, much research and development is already well underway. One locally-made discovery is at the heart of an impressive new skincare line.
In fact, Skinsmiths, an extensive active skincare range created by NZ skin and appearance experts Caci, isn’t entirely new. The line was first launched in 2018 as a standalone brand retailed by Caci, with focus on providing effective solutions for each step of a skincare routine. The products meet the skin health requirements of a number of different skin types. This includes treating pigmentation, sensitivity, dryness, blemishes and redness, as well as helping minimise the visible effects of aging.
These requirements and fine tuning of skincare needs were honed in part by the knowledge gained from treating thousands of people in Caci’s skin and appearance clinics over 28 years.
But skincare development moves swiftly and staying in step with the latest ingredients and possibilities is seeing more successful brands regularly re-evaluate their products.
With this in mind, Skinsmiths has just relaunched its range with advanced new formulas and new airless, recyclable packaging with a more sustainable approach. The range includes cleansers, moisturisers, SPF, treatment serums, a liquid exfoliant and even an ingestible ‘blemish defense’ supplement.
The hero of the range, included in each product, is an extract of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc grape seeds called SauvigNZ. A natural antioxidant complex, it helps skin fight off the impact of free radical damage to skin, keeping cells strong and healthy. Free radical damage, caused by a range of things including natural causes as well as environmental stress and UV, cause damage to our cells and can appear on the surface like premature ageing, dark spots, inflammation, dryness and wrinkles.
Skinsmith’s Senior Product Manager Sheree Butchers, who holds a Master of Bioscience and was the driving force behind the new collection, says it was developed to support total skin health and provide clinical results at home.
“It was important that the new range improved on our formulas and will enable [consumers] to target their primary skin concerns through a daily skincare ritual,” she explains.
She says the evidence from Caci’s experience treating skin over the years clearly shows the most effective way to care for skin is to protect it from environmental damage, which is why the SauvigNZ extract is so important.
“The biggest culprit, especially in New Zealand, is sun exposure,” says Butchers. “We wanted our entire range, not just our sunscreen, to help protect the skin against sun damage. This is why we’ve included SauvigNZ™ in every one of our formulations. SauvigNZ™ is a natural antioxidant complex scientifically proven to help protect the skin from UV damage.”
Including other key skin performers like Niacinamide and a combination of retinol and phyto-retinol (Bakuchiol) was also essential.
“Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, has largely been an underappreciated skincare ingredient in the past, although people are becoming more aware of its skin benefits,” points out Butchers.
“It plays a role in healthy skin barrier function, which can help reduce the appearance of facial dryness and redness, as well as support a smoother and more refined skin texture. Niacinamide is also known to inhibit melanosome transfer resulting in a lightening effect that helps even skin tone.”
“One of the great things about Niacinamide is that it is suitable for everyone and is the perfect complement to other well-known active ingredients like retinol and vitamin C for those harder-to-target skin concerns like lines and wrinkles and pigmentation.”
For those overwhelmed by the range’s selection there are two ‘must-haves’ according to Butchers.
“Our Resurfacing AHA/BHA Peel and Ultimate Renewal Serum can be used by anyone, they’re easily incorporated into every routine, and make an immediate difference to your skin. During our in-house consumer trials 100% of respondents found the Resurfacing AHA/BHA Peel made their skin more radiant overnight and noticed their skin felt more hydrated after a single use of the Ultimate Renewal Serum.”
She says for experienced skincare users, the PRO Collection contains the brand’s three most powerful formulations, which have all been clinically proven by an independent laboratory in Italy.
“While I’m proud of all three of these products (PRO Strength Niacinamide, Vitamin C and Retinol), our PRO Strength Niacinamide serum is the one I am most excited by. Early in 2022 we ran in-house consumer user trials and we’ve seen some truly dramatic results with our PRO Strength Niacinamide serum not only in reducing facial redness, but also improving uneven skin tone and texture.”
