For many travellers, the lower South Island is New Zealand at its most iconic – and the Southern Scenic Route one of the most spectacular ways to see it. This is a drive that unfolds in scenes: ancient forests dripping with moss; wild, wind-lashed coastlines; and vast alpine landscapes that feel almost too stunning to be real.
While the route itself may be steeped in history, the food story is very much of the moment, with plenty of fresh, playful regional dining driven by passionate restaurateurs and chefs.
In Dunedin, seasoned restaurateur Katrina Toovey has perfected the art of creating friendly, welcoming spaces people return to often – and the chefs she chooses mean these are the places locals and visitors love. No. 7 Balmac is the kind of neighbourhood spot everyone wishes they had just down the road, serving modern, vibrant fare influenced by the Mediterranean and the Middle East.
Meanwhile, Esplanade, Piccolo Bar and Sorella Gelato bring a fun slice of Italy to Dunedin’s beautiful St Clair beach – think lively antipasti, pizza, pasta, gelato, spritzes and Italian street food, often with a side of sea views.
If you can tear yourself away from Dunedin’s fascinating history, heritage buildings, albatrosses, seals, blue penguins, breweries and great eating, you’ll see the landscape morph into rolling farmland and lakes before pulling you towards the coast. It would be easy to blink and miss the small town of Waihola, but that would mean missing some of the best fish and chips in the South.
Judith Menzies and her husband started the business over two decades ago, selling fresh fish from local waters, but these days it’s possibly best known for its legendary blue cod and chips – flaky, golden and best straight from the paper. Everyone here is trained to very strict standards, so your order comes out perfectly cooked every time.
By the time you reach Invercargill, the light has that unique southern clarity, and the food scene reflects a region closely connected to its land and sea. The Batch might look like a regular local café from the outside, but with well-known New Zealand chef Ethan Flack in the kitchen, it’s anything but. His and owner Kate’s passion for putting local ingredients centre stage is obvious; producers are named on menus, regional products are proudly displayed, and the food is a love letter to local provenance.
If you’re looking for a drink in the evening, head skyward to 360 at The Langlands, perched above the city, where the line-up of New Zealand gins is excellent, some produced just kilometres down the road.
After Invercargill, the road turns inland, and the scale of the landscape moves into dramatic mode. Fiordland’s towering peaks, glacial lakes and stunning views look like they’ve been lifted directly out of a tourism brochure and in Te Anau, the base camp for adventures in this area, Ditto has fast become a local favourite for casual bites and takeout. Local ex fine-dining chef Ryan Murray pairs punchy Asian flavours with Southland produce, and if you’ve never had a venison bao bun, this is the place.
The final stretch of the route takes you to Queenstown, on the shores of Lake Whakatipu and beneath the jagged peaks of the Southern Alps. At much-awarded Sherwood, sustainability isn’t just a buzzword; it’s the ethos behind everything Executive Chef Chris Scott does. Much of what you eat is grown in their enormous on-site garden, and the creative menu reflects a kitchen that’s clearly enjoying itself (the flatbread with toppings like oyster mushroom, smoked mozzarella and rocket; or nduja, courgette, labneh, hot honey and oregano is legendary).
On the Southern Scenic Route, the landscapes may be the headline act, but the food is a very strong best supporting actor. Pack your appetite, allow time for detours, and enjoy the ride.
For more information, visit southernway.nz/seenz
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Photographs: Ross Mackay.
