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New skincare ingredients to get in your regimen

When it comes to futuristic ingredients, these are the areas we should have our eyes fixed on according to leading skincare experts.

Refining Retinol

A great deal of innovation will occur with ingredients we’re already using in our beauty regimens according to leading Australian dermatologist and director of Brisbane Skin, Dr Shobhan Manoharan. “We’ll see refinements of previous products. Retinols, vitamin a, are already a cornerstone of dermatology and skin health –  they’re proven to remodel, tighten and reduce sun spots. The problem is that they’ve often been irritating, particularly those with sensitised skin,” Manoharan explains. “But we’re going to see more retinols coming through that are nano-encapsulated; they’ll be much better tolerated and longer lasting. They penetrate really well, and the results are better.”

Edible Superstars

Superfood enthusiasts might be able to predict the future of beauty by peering inside their pantries says Roberta Weiss, Senior Vice President of Kiehl’s Innovation and Product Development, who admits she’s personally trying to create a pantry of perfect ingredients. “I have a lot of ingredients that I’m interested in but I’m trying to find them before we need them,” Weiss says. “Many beauty breakthroughs will be coming from the wellness world – teas, oils, superfoods like fruits, berries and quinoa.” Turmeric, avocado and manuka honey are already popping up in our beauty cabinets.

In Your Genes

One of the fastest growing skincare categories will revolve around ingredients that provide genetic protection factor says Elizabeth Arden PRO’s Director of Education, Tracy May-Harriott. “We’re learning more about DNA repair, how growth factors and peptides assist the genetics of skin. We’ve spoken about SPF for years, we’ve talked about EPF (environmental protection factor) but what we’re talking about now is GPF – genetic protection factor,” Harriott explains  “That’s the future: really understanding what the adverse effect of living in our environment is. If I can stay out longer in the sun, I’m germinating another lot of problems. We might not be burning anymore but we’re doing something to our genetic pathways. It’s where a bulk of our research is being done.”

Good Bacteria

Fermented ingredients that have been trending in the food world for the last few years could become a prominent force in skincare if expert predictions are correct. “It’s a huge trend in food, and it’s more and more obvious that fermented foods and probiotics are good for the skin when applied topically. We just need more research done into that,” says Weiss. Geoff Genesky, head of the Kiehl’s laboratory agrees that fermented foods that bolster the microbiome hold potential. “The microbiome is interesting for skin. Our skin has its own bacteria, so a healthy balance of those little critters in our skin is an interesting area to explore. It’s definitely an area of interest for the medical and dermatological community,” he says.

Fresh Idea

Active ingredients are best when they’re fresh, and according to skincare scientists it won’t be long until we see better, faster results, thanks to fresher ingredients. “You’re going to see more along the lines of instant-acting, DIY-ish, fresh products,” says Clinique’s Dr. Tom Mammone. Watch this space as next month Clinique will launch a game-changing industry first: a range of of skincare products that harness the power of highly concentrated, fresh vitamin C. “Fresh means power, fresh means power. People want to know things are fresh, therefore better, and we’re constantly evolving that proposition,” says Janet Pardo, senior vice president of product development at Clinique.

The new make-up innovations you need in your life

Foundations that do much more than just cover up skin

Foundations that cross over into skincare territory and promise to provide hydration and youthful skin are nothing new but according to Dr Shobhan Manoharan, one of Australia’s leading dermatologists and director of Brisbane Skin, the future of beauty will deliver true hybrid products. “In the past they’ve all been a little bit cumbersome,” he says. “The make-up side wasn’t very good but the actives were, they were perhaps a bit clunky and not aesthetically pleasing and vice versa – the make-up side was good but the actives not effective.” But over the next year or so we’ll see hybrid products that deliver on their products. “We’ll see more make-up with active ingredients,” Manoharan says explaining that foundations with low concentration salicylic acid for acne prone skin and make-up with alpha hydroxy acids the rejuvenate and assist with collagen remodelling are just a few innovations that aren’t far off. “People are busy and some people like an intensive routine, but some people find that if they can get one product that has sunscreen, moisturiser and an active ingredient as well, then they’d prefer that. These hybrid products are the way of the future.”

More radiance, less contouring

Those faddish contouring kits of 2016 are about to become redundant as radiant skin returns to the forefront of the beauty world. “The drive has been from the ‘anti-contour’ movement,” says Felix Nguyen, manager of education and artistry for Asia Pacific for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. “I’m sure women are realising that it’s much easier to create a beautiful natural looking glow than to create and blend the perfect contour, as it can easily look a little dirty when not well executed,” he says. “We’re not going to see that flawless face being one colour all over, we’ll see more colour and textures that will create shape,” says Will Malherbe, Smashbox’s director of international education, artistry and communication. “Sheer layers and textures will give more flawless coverage, but those days of looking like foundation are really over. We don’t have reasons to still look like we are wearing foundation,” Malherbe explains.

Matte lip colour moves out the way for gloss

Move over matte lipstick; glossy, high-shine lip colours and formulations are going to make a dramatic comeback. “There’s going to be a change in the lip focus. Lips are going to go back to gloss and liquid lips are going to flood the market more than ever before,” says Smashbox’s Malherbe. “Lipstick has been growing over the years; we started with a very glossy look in the early 2000s and we’ve moved to a lot of colour on the lip – fuchsia, purple, orange,” he explains. A return to gloss is going to have its moment, and we’ll still see a lot of the high-impact colour we’ve seen in previous years but we’ll see polished metallics and formulations that offer skincare benefits.

Colour that’s customised for you

The future will see us continue to move away from the one-colour-fits-all-skin-types approach to makeup. Brands will extend foundation shade ranges to appeal to a more diverse audience, and creating custom-made, colour-matched foundation will become more commonplace. Colour-wise, Malherbe says palettes will become smaller – so consumers use all of the colours – and customisable. Various online retailers already offer customised lipstick creation and brick-and-mortar The Lip Lab in Australia offers a consultation-based personalised lipstick creation service: once you’ve created your unique colour you can add anything from SPF to lip plumpers.

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