When it comes to futuristic ingredients, these are the areas we should have our eyes fixed on according to leading skincare experts.
A great deal of innovation will occur with ingredients we’re already using in our beauty regimens according to leading Australian dermatologist and director of Brisbane Skin, Dr Shobhan Manoharan. “We’ll see refinements of previous products. Retinols, vitamin a, are already a cornerstone of dermatology and skin health – they’re proven to remodel, tighten and reduce sun spots. The problem is that they’ve often been irritating, particularly those with sensitised skin,” Manoharan explains. “But we’re going to see more retinols coming through that are nano-encapsulated; they’ll be much better tolerated and longer lasting. They penetrate really well, and the results are better.”
Superfood enthusiasts might be able to predict the future of beauty by peering inside their pantries says Roberta Weiss, Senior Vice President of Kiehl’s Innovation and Product Development, who admits she’s personally trying to create a pantry of perfect ingredients. “I have a lot of ingredients that I’m interested in but I’m trying to find them before we need them,” Weiss says. “Many beauty breakthroughs will be coming from the wellness world – teas, oils, superfoods like fruits, berries and quinoa.” Turmeric, avocado and manuka honey are already popping up in our beauty cabinets.
In Your Genes
One of the fastest growing skincare categories will revolve around ingredients that provide genetic protection factor says Elizabeth Arden PRO’s Director of Education, Tracy May-Harriott. “We’re learning more about DNA repair, how growth factors and peptides assist the genetics of skin. We’ve spoken about SPF for years, we’ve talked about EPF (environmental protection factor) but what we’re talking about now is GPF – genetic protection factor,” Harriott explains “That’s the future: really understanding what the adverse effect of living in our environment is. If I can stay out longer in the sun, I’m germinating another lot of problems. We might not be burning anymore but we’re doing something to our genetic pathways. It’s where a bulk of our research is being done.”
Fermented ingredients that have been trending in the food world for the last few years could become a prominent force in skincare if expert predictions are correct. “It’s a huge trend in food, and it’s more and more obvious that fermented foods and probiotics are good for the skin when applied topically. We just need more research done into that,” says Weiss. Geoff Genesky, head of the Kiehl’s laboratory agrees that fermented foods that bolster the microbiome hold potential. “The microbiome is interesting for skin. Our skin has its own bacteria, so a healthy balance of those little critters in our skin is an interesting area to explore. It’s definitely an area of interest for the medical and dermatological community,” he says.
Active ingredients are best when they’re fresh, and according to skincare scientists it won’t be long until we see better, faster results, thanks to fresher ingredients. “You’re going to see more along the lines of instant-acting, DIY-ish, fresh products,” says Clinique’s Dr. Tom Mammone. Watch this space as next month Clinique will launch a game-changing industry first: a range of of skincare products that harness the power of highly concentrated, fresh vitamin C. “Fresh means power, fresh means power. People want to know things are fresh, therefore better, and we’re constantly evolving that proposition,” says Janet Pardo, senior vice president of product development at Clinique.