Retinol products are popular for good reason. Clinical studies have long proven the derivative of Vitamin A’s efficacy in helping lessen the signs of ageing, improve the overall appearance of skin and control acne.
However, the ingredient can sometimes be challenging to adopt. While it increases skin turnover, unclogs pores and helps smooth uneven texture, lines and wrinkles, retinol can be drying and cause sensitivity for some people.
This irritation is one reason a limitation on the strength of over-the-counter retinol products and retinol derivatives retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate is being introduced in Europe. The other is to limit the risk of potential overexposure to Vitamin A, which is also consumed in various foods.
Percentage changes
Different retinol concentrations are currently available on the market globally, ranging from 0.1% to 1%.
The new law in the European Union will mean a 0.3% retinol limit for leave-on and rinse-off skincare products and a 0.05% cap for bodycare products.
Though retinol has been used in dermatology for decades, skincare science is ever-evolving. This means the various legislations that exist around the world are regularly reviewed, too.
Vitamin A has been recognised as safe to use and is a well-studied and respected skin ingredient. It is also essential in our diet. But too much of anything can often be detrimental, and the new EU law looks at the potential for cumulative intake from both topical and ingested Vitamin A.
“Vitamin A is present in dairy and fish, so there is a risk of exceeding the upper recommended limit of vitamin A with application of high retinol concentrations,” Dr Jonathan Dunne, of London’s Montrose dermatology and aesthetics clinic, told The Independent.
“Too much Vitamin A can increase the risk of [bone] fractures in later life, and high doses during pregnancy can uncommonly lead to birth defects. So, the EU’s move is aimed at ensuring consumers have access to safe concentrations of retinol that deliver benefits without undue risk, particularly in the absence of professional oversight.”
This latest law has been guided by the EU’s Scientific Committee of Consumer Safety, a group of toxicology and safety experts for non-food consumer products.
In its report, it said: “Compared to food, the contribution of Vitamin A from cosmetics is lower. However, it will add to the overall consumer exposure, and this may be of concern for consumers with the highest exposure (5% of the total population) to Vitamin A from food and food supplements.
No cause for panic
The issue isn’t cause for panic, and many products will be available for a while as new formulations are slowly phased in.
The latest restrictions will be rolled out over 36 months, starting at the end of 2024. Interestingly, higher percentage prescription-strength Vitamin A products will still be available through doctors and dermatologists. These are generally prescribed to treat specific skin challenges such as acne.
Restrictions in the EU for other skincare ingredients were also introduced in the amendment, with concentration limits placed on Kojic Acid (a popular skin lightening agent), Alpha-Arbutin, Arbutin, Genistein and Daidzein.
In New Zealand and Australia, nothing is changing and there has been no indication that they will follow suit and adopt similar limits any time soon.
However, as many of the brands we love here are also created and/or sold in Europe and the UK, it is something to be aware of as it seems likely some high-strength retinol products will be adjusted to meet the new guidelines, given production costs involved with formulating products with different levels for different markets.
Stronger not always better
Many experts also point out when considering Vitamin A products, stronger is not always better. Becoming fixated on numbers isn’t useful as the percentage doesn’t always tell the full story.
The quality of ingredients and formulation are often what matters, like the inclusion of encapsulation and liposome technology that protects the potency of retinol from degrading before it reaches contact with your skin.
Many products available are already formulated within the limits and some dermatologists have said most people will still gain plenty of benefits from products within the specified range, with the upside of less risk of irritation.
It can be difficult to even find out what percentage a product actually uses. Often it’s not readily displayed as brands protect their formulation information as a competitive advantage, but also to prevent confusion between products using different derivatives and strengths of Vitamin A which can work differently and have different structures.
With Environ, created by plastic surgeon Dr Des Fernandes – who pioneered the use of Vitamin A in cosmetic products – products are formulated with a precise amount of Vitamin A in conjunction with other key ingredients such as vitamin C, E, antioxidants and peptides to complement the ingredient’s action on skin.
It means even at the lowest dose, skin benefits. A step-up system relates to your skin’s condition and tolerance, which means users can focus on results, rather than looking for a specific percentage of retinol.
Though retinol is undeniably effective, some brands have opted to use retinal, another form of Vitamin A, that is said to be more easily metabolised by your skin, instead. Because retinal acts in the skin differently to retinol, formulators can use a smaller amount to get good results.
“The good news is; retinaldehyde is not being restricted, so our Crystal Retinal franchise will not be impacted by the new regulations,” says Daniel Isaacs, Chief Product Officer and founding partner of Medik8.
Though Medik8’s two highest retinol products will be affected in the EU, the brand is focusing on the step-up retinal range it offers.
“Irrespective of the new restrictions, we always champion the use of retinal as a superior form of Vitamin A to retinol, “ says Isaacs. “That’s because retinal acts up to 11 times faster than retinol. This means we can use lower concentrations for more effective results, hence why this Vitamin A ingredient is not affected by the new EU regulations.”
Try one of these beginner-level products: Kiehl’s Retinol Daily Micro-Dose Serum; Fig.1 Retinol Night Cream No. 1; Environ Skin EssentiA Vita-Antioxidant AVST Moisturiser 1; Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 Stable Retinal Night Serum; The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane.
Spin-off benefits
One upside of the new regulations is that it is likely to drive even more retinol innovation: for example, more combination products that deliver a finely tuned cocktail of vitamins and ingredients that enhance the formulation when used together.
Another spin-off is likely to be more research and development in alternative ingredients to help nourish and rejuvenate skin and improve the signs of ageing, particularly plant-based ingredients like bakuchiol.
The vegan skincare ingredient found in the leaves and seeds of the babchi (Psoralea corylifolia) plant, and a staple of traditional Indian Ayurvedic and Chinese medicine, is one example discovered after similar exploration.
A potent antioxidant, it has been touted as a plant-based alternative to retinol in recent years. It has been shown to help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles as well as improve inflammation and pigmentation in skin. One study in the British Journal of Dermatology showed its potency in comparison to 0.5% retinol.
Bakuchiol and retinol both significantly decreased wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the compounds. With only 44 participants, more widespread research is needed, but it is clearly a key contender in the skincare scene to treat the signs of skin ageing.
There have also been studies that show bakuchiol can actually help stabilise retinol and enhance its effectiveness, so some brands have started formulating products with both ingredients.
Because bakuchiol is entirely unrelated to Vitamin A, it’s not putting users at risk of those aforementioned cumulation issues. It is also commonly listed as safe for use during pregnancy and while breastfeeding as it does not contain Vitamin A. However, as there are no large trials or safety data that support its use during pregnancy at this time, it’s recommended to speak with a doctor about this issue before proceeding.
