Licence to thrill


After seasons of straightening, smoothing and slicking, big, glamorous hair is back this summer. The modern take on what characterised the ’80s is all about bouffant up-dos, oversized quiffs 
and plenty of bouncing curls.

To take hair from flat to fabulous in minutes, put the ironing tools away and instead employ volumising products and generous amounts of hairspray.

To create a scene-stealing quiff, as seen at Trelise Cooper, Grant Bettjeman of Bettjemans Hair Associates in Auckland, recommends taking a triangle section of hair at the top front of the crown and clipping it to the side. Next, pull the remainder of the hair into a pony tail, sitting high on the crown of the head. Then back comb the triangle section, spraying with hairspray as you go, until you have created plenty of volume.

Pull the teased hair back and twist slightly at the ends and attach to the ponytail. The hair on the side should be left fairly tight with the quiff sitting high on top of the head. Keep the quiff fairly deconstructed and messy as opposed to too neat and tidy.


Attract attention with a bold and bright pout this season. Hot fuchsia pink and bright-red lips stood out at Trelise Cooper. Amber Dreadon, senior M.A.C make-up artist suggests mixing the two colours together (in a 50/50 mix) or wear alone.

“Matte, opaque lipstick is best, but if you are a stickler for shine, then use either a creamy lipstick or a lip gloss instead,” says Dreadon. For a soft-looking edge, apply the lipstick by pouting and dabbing the lippie on with your index finger. For a more precise line, outline and then colour in the lip with lip liner first.

While the traditional make-up mantra is that you should only play up either the eye or the lips, runway trends of late have made both the focus. The trick is to complement the lips with a flawless complexion and neutral tones on the eye, such as brown or slate.


Take your eye make-up from day to night with the latest crop of frosted metallic eye shadows, as seen at Yvonne Bennetti. Fitting for a Christmas theme, palettes of gold, bronze, champagne and silver will give your eyes the perfect amount of shimmer. Choose to either keep your eye shadow application pretty, soft and feminine, or go for a more dramatic, sexy and smouldering look.

A top tip is to highlight the inner corner of your eyelid with the lightest shade – this will help set the eyes apart – and then gradually add darker shades as you blend outwards toward your brow. For a more intense smoky eye, apply the eyeshadow with a wet brush and apply liquid eyeliner to both the top and bottom lash line. Finish the look with lashings of black mascara or false eye lashes to add drama.


While traditionally the general rule with bronzing powder is less is more, bronzer has been enjoying centre stage on the catwalks of late, with make-up artists using it to define, contour and sculpt the face.

To get the look, as seen at the Alice McCall shows, right, M.A.C make-up artist Olivia Russell suggests creating a fresh, flawless complexion base, using a creamy foundation rather than anything too powdery.

“Using a contour powder brush, begin at the hairline at the middle of your ear, then sweep the bronzer down on an angle in the hollows of the cheeks,” says Russell. “Take the bronzer as low as your lip line but stop where an imaginary line would run down from the outer corner of your eye.” Alternatively, a good way to find the hollows of your cheek is to suck your cheeks in and if it helps, apply the bronzer while you do so.

To avoid creating a racing stripe, apply the bronzer with a light hand and blend the edges using a powder brush. Soften the look further by applying a light peach or pink blush on the apple of your cheeks.

Five minutes with: Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared

Can you tell me about the inspiration behind the limited edition makeup collection you’ve collaborated on with M.A.C?

DAN: It’s old Hollywood meets new Hollywood. Our girl is interrupted – she’s on a set, she’s off the set; she’s young, she’s cool, she’s moving, she’s very now, she lives in the moment. Hollywood today is a different story than it used to be. These girls have tons of things to do, they’re on the go.

DEAN: It’s all about mixing great statement pieces with their own things; she might have a $20,000 jacket that she puts with a pair of $10 sweat pants.

DAN: Less is more, but more is never enough. Stack it on and mix it up. It’s such a change because Hollywood used to be regimented, it used to be so perfected, not a hair out of place and now it’s undergone this huge revolution with a new generation of stars.

DEAN: They’re so young and they’re real, they want to be individual, they don’t want to be dictated to anymore. These girls practically live their whole lives in the public, it’s just not possible for them to keep up that carefully crafted façade actresses used to put up.

DAN: Thank God for that – it makes them more colourful, it makes them more interesting. If anybody does anything well it should look effortless, I think the key expression for the collection is “Effortless Makeup”; she didn’t spend hours but she looks amazing and, more importantly, memorable.

Can you tell me a bit more about the actual collection that you’ve created with M.A.C?

DAN: It’s about a very important dark eye, but a multi-hued black, not a flat black.

DEAN: It’s kind of a “rock-on” make-up statement, but it’s unforced, purposefully messy.

DAN: This girl didn’t spend hours doing her make-up but she looks amazing. It’s cooler than being too studied. Young Hollywood doesn’t need to impress anyone; the same goes for the make-up, she’s not about blending it perfectly.

DEAN: The longer it’s worn in, the better it looks. I love the idea that the application is easy, it’s markers, pencils, powders and you can use your fingers to put them on.

DAN: Use Kohl Powder in Feline and Greasepaint Stick with Zoom Fast Black Lash, and then they’re lightened with peacock and violet Greasepaints. After you’ve put all that black on the eye and those two vibrant colours, you add an eye gloss to bring light to hidden things. So the eyes will be really dramatic!

Tell me about the model you chose to be shot backstage for the make-up collection.

DEAN: As this season is inspired by young Hollywood, those young cool girls, they are carefree, cool and easy.

DAN: We just thought Valeria was one of the coolest girls in the show. We like those girls that don’t care, you can see it in the way they walk and the way they carry themselves, it’s relaxed. It’s not like she is trying to be a glam goddess, I don’t even think she knows how beautiful she is.

DEAN: They don’t take themselves too seriously, which makes them cool.

Why did you decided to collaborate with M.A.C?

DEAN: M.A.C is a part of our family, we grew up with them. We’re Canadian, they’re Canadian, and it started there.

DAN: M.A.C has been very supportive of us from the beginning of our design career, so it’s a natural link.

Because you all met when you were quite young didn’t you?

DAN: We have the longest history with Gordon (Espinet). We grew up together, and actually have a lot of things in common. We always used to play around with make-up anyway, so it’s not like Dean and I don’t know anything about make-up. We knew how we wanted the eyes to be, with the colour and the black, coming up with great ideas for the final look was really a very smooth process.

DEAN: M.A.C is the best make-up brand around. Let’s not forget about that!

DAN: Neither company takes itself too seriously, M.A.C is really expressive and DSquared² are on the same trip. We both have strong connections with pop stars, music and fashion – we’re certainly on the same page.

Did M.A.C inspire you when you were starting out? It was so seminal in the nineties, DSquared² was around at the same time and the M.A.C look was so different to anything else on the market.

DAN: I think M.A.C was probably one of the first cosmetics companies that came out with colours and pigments that you didn’t find, colours that were unusual.

DEAN: They were and are make-up pioneers.

Was it nice to be able to apply your creative process to a medium such as this one?

DAN: Absolutely, we are very creative people, as is M.A.C. They really understood what we wanted and have stayed true to our vision. Also, because we’ve known each other for a long time, M.A.C knows what we’re about.