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Licence to thrill

By Milly Nolan

L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Fix Design Fixing Spray, $31; Sebastian Professional Whipped Crème, $40; Kevin Murphy Gritty Business, $33.
L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Fix Design Fixing Spray, $31; Sebastian Professional Whipped Crème, $40; Kevin Murphy Gritty Business, $33.
It’s party time! This season take direction from the catwalk and work funky up-dos with bold, daring make-up techniques, by Milly Nolan.


After seasons of straightening, smoothing and slicking, big, glamorous hair is back this summer. The modern take on what characterised the ’80s is all about bouffant up-dos, oversized quiffs 
and plenty of bouncing curls.

To take hair from flat to fabulous in minutes, put the ironing tools away and instead employ volumising products and generous amounts of hairspray.

To create a scene-stealing quiff, as seen at Trelise Cooper, Grant Bettjeman of Bettjemans Hair Associates in Auckland, recommends taking a triangle section of hair at the top front of the crown and clipping it to the side. Next, pull the remainder of the hair into a pony tail, sitting high on the crown of the head. Then back comb the triangle section, spraying with hairspray as you go, until you have created plenty of volume.

Pull the teased hair back and twist slightly at the ends and attach to the ponytail. The hair on the side should be left fairly tight with the quiff sitting high on top of the head. Keep the quiff fairly deconstructed and messy as opposed to too neat and tidy.


Attract attention with a bold and bright pout this season. Hot fuchsia pink and bright-red lips stood out at Trelise Cooper. Amber Dreadon, senior M.A.C make-up artist suggests mixing the two colours together (in a 50/50 mix) or wear alone.

“Matte, opaque lipstick is best, but if you are a stickler for shine, then use either a creamy lipstick or a lip gloss instead,” says Dreadon. For a soft-looking edge, apply the lipstick by pouting and dabbing the lippie on with your index finger. For a more precise line, outline and then colour in the lip with lip liner first.

While the traditional make-up mantra is that you should only play up either the eye or the lips, runway trends of late have made both the focus. The trick is to complement the lips with a flawless complexion and neutral tones on the eye, such as brown or slate.


Take your eye make-up from day to night with the latest crop of frosted metallic eye shadows, as seen at Yvonne Bennetti. Fitting for a Christmas theme, palettes of gold, bronze, champagne and silver will give your eyes the perfect amount of shimmer. Choose to either keep your eye shadow application pretty, soft and feminine, or go for a more dramatic, sexy and smouldering look.

A top tip is to highlight the inner corner of your eyelid with the lightest shade – this will help set the eyes apart – and then gradually add darker shades as you blend outwards toward your brow. For a more intense smoky eye, apply the eyeshadow with a wet brush and apply liquid eyeliner to both the top and bottom lash line. Finish the look with lashings of black mascara or false eye lashes to add drama.


While traditionally the general rule with bronzing powder is less is more, bronzer has been enjoying centre stage on the catwalks of late, with make-up artists using it to define, contour and sculpt the face.

To get the look, as seen at the Alice McCall shows, right, M.A.C make-up artist Olivia Russell suggests creating a fresh, flawless complexion base, using a creamy foundation rather than anything too powdery.

“Using a contour powder brush, begin at the hairline at the middle of your ear, then sweep the bronzer down on an angle in the hollows of the cheeks,” says Russell. “Take the bronzer as low as your lip line but stop where an imaginary line would run down from the outer corner of your eye.” Alternatively, a good way to find the hollows of your cheek is to suck your cheeks in and if it helps, apply the bronzer while you do so.

To avoid creating a racing stripe, apply the bronzer with a light hand and blend the edges using a powder brush. Soften the look further by applying a light peach or pink blush on the apple of your cheeks.



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