Key looks at iD Dunedin Fashion Week

Creating hair and make-up looks for a group show the size of the one to be held on the platform of the Dunedin Railway Station tonight and tomorrow is a hair raising task. Some would say impossible because it is hard to meet individual designer’s demands or visions for how they want their models to look when presenting their collections.

Twelve New Zealand labels and one Chinese label are showing their autumn/winter 2015 collections alongside two guest designers, the two Doris’s – Doris Raymond (queen of vintage and star of L.A Frockstars) and Doris De Pont (designer and founder of the New Zealand Fashion Museum).

Raymond will be showing a collection of red carpet worthy vintage gowns, and De Pont has curated a collection of garments by leading New Zealand and Australian designers as a salute to Anzac Day.

For this year’s show make-up artist Ali McD and Christal Allpress using Revlon and hair crafted by the team from Aart on Saint Andrew using Redken have created three key looks that are sure to please.

“Young” Look

Young for web

The eyes are the focus for this look beginning with Revlon Photoready Eye Primer to affix shadow and brighten the eye area. Add a touch of shimmery drama by using Desert Dazzle all over the lid, then add a sweep of ColourStay Liquid Liner in black over the upper lid, and a heavy application of ColourStay Eyeliner in black on the lower waterline, smoking the liner into the lash line and upper waterline for depth. Finish with lashings of Photoready Mascara.

The hair is set in loose clips and brushed out using Redken Fashion Works 12 to keep the hair looking natural while the top and side parting is smoothed out with Redken Outshine 01 to keep the fringe in place.

“Alternative” Look

Alternative for web

It takes a bit of skill to create perfect messed-up hair. Tie the hair into a centre ponytail and then loosen it off to give it an edgier feel. Wrap a small section of hair around the tie to give it a more natural look. Redken Fashion Works 12 helps give the hair a loose controlled direction.

To create the flawless base the make-up team at Ali McD used Revlon Photoready Primer, Photoready Insta-fix Foundation and Photoready Transpowder for an airbrushed finish, and bronzer in Sun on the cheeks.

“Pretty” Look

pretty for web

To create an angelic glow on the skin Revlon Photoready Skinlights in Peach Light were dusted on to the top of the cheek bones to reflect the light.

Revlon ColourStay Lip Pencil in Nude was used to line the lips for longwearing definition before adding a layer of Ultra HD Lipstick in Magnolia for a natural colour.

The hair was loaded up with Redken Guts 10 volume spray before winding it into small sections around foil and clamping with an iron to set the curls. Later after the foils are removed the curls are brushed through, creating classic waves that are kept in place with Redken Fashion Works.

Models from Ali McD Agency

Abandon Man collection wins top award

Steve Hall, 25, won the MiNDFOOD Style first prize of $6000 for his collection Abandon Man – a strong, masculine and military-inspired “warrior” look seamlessly counterbalanced by the soft touch of cut, proportion and shape.

“There was nothing traditional about it. It wasn’t over the top; in a quietly confident way it was a new silhouette for a guy, which is refreshing,” says fellow judge Margi Robertson of NOM*d. “It was very beautifully constructed, and it could be worn by men or women. Very androgynous.”

Hall was voted the unanimous winner by all five judges that also included international guest judge of L.A. Frockstars fame Doris Raymond, fashion designer Tanya Carlson, New Zealand Fashion Museum founder Doris De Pont and MiNDFOOD Style associate editor Carolyn Enting.

De Pont described it as a “very enthusiastic collection … there was heart in his work.

“You could see the very young men who were wearing it were really comfortable in what they were wearing,” De Pont says.

Model Hamish Wallace, who was wearing what Hall called a “mess” (men’s dress), commented that “it’s so comfortable, girls have it so good.”

Hall says they are clothes that he envisions himself wearing.

“The collection was based on samurais and ninjas and very oriental. I chose pleats, lining and strapping to be the main design features,” he says. “I like the fact that they look like skirts but they are actually really low crotch shorts. It is very androgynous, very unisex but it’s aimed more towards men.”

Hall plans to use the money to either travel offshore to intern with a designer or to start his own fashion label – “I’m not going to waste it.”

Steve Hall

This year’s winners are:

MiNDFOOD Style 1st Place ($6000): Steve Hall, Massey University, Wellington, New Zealand

Steve Hall collection for web

Brooker Travel 2nd Place ($4000): Vanessa Emirian, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia

Vanessa Emirian for web

Gallery De Novo 3rd Place ($2000): Emma van de Merwe, Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology, Australia

Emma Van De Merwe_0002 for web

Dunedin’s Golden Centre Mall Most Commercial Collection Prize ($1000): Tara Gurisik, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia

Tara Gurisik for web

New Zealand Light Leathers Prize ($1000 cash + $1000 NZLL voucher): Erica DeLuchi, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia

Erica Deluchi_0040 for web

The Fabric Store Award for Excellence in Design ($1000 cash + $2000 voucher): Monique Duggan, University of Technology, Sydney, Australia

Monique Duggan_0031 for web

The high standard of entries at iD International Emerging Designer Awards was an “embarrassment of riches” says Raymond. “Too many great designers with too much good material.”

Pictures: Chris Sullivan