Casual elegance reigned, though moments of shimmering fun infused a welcome energy to the collection, presented at Paris Men’s Fashion Week.
Skewing conventions, juxtaposing ideas from different eras and unexpected reinventions were themes explored by creative director Jonathan Anderson, who had hinted at the mood by sending out mini black disco balls as invitations.
The range was presented at the grand Musée Nissim de Camondo in Paris, to a fittingly upbeat soundtrack by British record producer and DJ Fred Again..
Here, Anderson shares a look behind his creative approach to the collection. See the full looks below.
How did you conceive this collection, in terms of aesthetic and narrative?
There’s a fusion of the ideas and themes from the last two men’s collections – something quite formal becoming undone – a tuxedo meets a ripped jean, a tailored coat is paired with pink denim shorts.
What is the story behind the invitation? Why choose this disco ball?
For me, the collection is about what happens towards the end of a night out when everything gets a bit looser. It’s this idea of a soiree turning into a house party. I like how everyone knows what a disco ball means – it’s like shorthand for ‘party’.
Music is a huge part of this show. We collaborated with Fred again.. for it, who makes music that can completely shift the dynamic of a room. There’s a positivity to what he does. His sets make everyone smile.
What are the archival references in this collection?
Dior codes run throughout the collection. The embroidered silk shirts are inspired by trompe l’oeil dresses in 1979 Dior haute couture. The Bar appears with long fringes at the cuffs and hem.
Look closely and you’ll see details like the silk satin boots with ladybirds embroidered onto them.
What about the colour palette?
Metallics, earth tones, flashes of colour and these pastels that I love – yellow, mint, pale pink. A continuation of past seasons.
Why did you choose Nissim the Camondo Museum to present your collection ?
I first became aware of the Museum when I saw an exhibition of the artist Edmund de Waal there. I became fascinated by its story, particularly in the context of Dior – because it houses a significant collection of 18th century decorative arts. I loved the idea of bringing the new into this historic space. And as we know, Monsieur Dior loved the 18th century. I think in some ways he was similar to Moïse de Camondo, whose house the museum was – they were both interested in reinvention as much as preservation.
The Museum is currently in a phase of restoration. I like the slightly undone nature of it and how that connects to the collection – there’s this aspect of finding beauty in the imperfect.
How has the show space been conceived?
It’s about juxtaposing the historic and the contemporary and bringing Fred again..’s music into this typically quiet place. The opportunity to show here is special because the building is about to be restored, so it’s in this interesting in-between phase.
What are the key items? And the key accessories?
In the first look we have pinstripes that are printed instead of woven, and onto a transparent chiffon. This experimentation with unexpected techniques and fabrics continues throughout.
The trompe l’œil scarf embroidery that appears on a few different pieces replicates a motif from 1979 Dior haute couture but they also continue the trompe l’œil theme of recent collections.
There’s a focus on suiting, and we have denim treated in different ways across jeans, shirts and bags.
The styling is very important – you have a jumper or parka over something more formal and that immediately changes the tone. I also love the new men’s Dior Ribbon sneakers which come in denim, neutrals and brighter retro colourways.
All the looks: Dior 2027 Summer Men’s Collection
Photos / Dior, Mireia Deulofeu for Dior
