Most of us have been brought up with only the basics of hair care. This usually involves a regular shampoo and condition to clean and soften strands. But we’re never really taught about the ingredients in these products and how to tell if they’re not working for us.
Selecting products is usually based on the words emblazoned on bottles like ‘volumising’ or ‘hydrating.’ This can be great if hair is responding well to these products, but if hair feels brittle, dry and breaks easily, it might help to have a better understanding of what is needed to improve the situation.
It also helps to understand your hair type as some types, like curly and coily hair, need more moisture than others and some need specific ingredients to provide nutrition.
Hydration vs nutrition
Our hair is made of keratin (a protein), and its health depends on both the nutrients we consume and the key ingredients we ‘feed’ our strand with in our haircare products. Nutrition in haircare incudes protein, vitamins, and minerals. These nutrients help strengthen hair and prevent hair loss processes.
Hydration refers to how much water, or moisture in hair, including the core structure of each strand. This helps hair remain soft, elastic and manageable. Hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, or aloe vera help hair hold onto water, while emollients such as shea butter, coconut oil, and avocado oil help to seal in that moisture and smooth the hair cuticle.
Porosity refers to how well your hair can absorb and hold moisture. It’s determined by how open, or porous, your hair’s cuticle is.
How to tell if hair is thirsty and hungry
There are some common signs that can help, but the quickest way to know what your hair is missing is to do the stretch test.
Take a single strand of damp (not soaking wet) hair.
Gently stretch it between your fingers.
If it stretches slightly and returns to its normal length without breaking – Your hair is balanced and healthy.
If it snaps immediately with little to no stretch – Your hair needs moisture (it’s too brittle and dry).
If it stretches a lot, feels gummy, and doesn’t bounce back – Your hair needs protein (it’s too weak and over-moisturised).
5 signs your hair is craving moisture:
Your hair feels rough or straw-like
If your strands feel coarse, dry, or lack smoothness even after brushing, they’re likely dehydrated.
It tangles and knots easily
Dry hair doesn’t have a smooth cuticle layer, causing friction and making it more prone to tangling.
Your hair is frizzy or lacks shine
Frizz is often a sign of moisture imbalance, as dry hair tries to absorb water from the air.
It breaks or snaps easily
Hair that’s brittle and prone to split ends usually needs hydration to improve flexibility and strength.
It absorbs product quickly but still feels dry
If your hair “drinks up” conditioner or oils but still feels dry afterward, it’s likely dehydrated and needs richer, moisture-focused care.
Hydrating hair products: Pureology Hydrate Shampoo; Joico Moisture Recovery Shampoo; L’Oréal Paris Elvive Hyaluron Pure Shampoo; Oribe Supershine Moisturizing Cream; Evo The Great Hydrator Mask
5 signs your hair is craving nutrition:
Gummy, stretchy, or overly elastic when wet
With regard to the stretch test, above, if it stretches a lot, feels rubbery, and doesn’t spring back—or snaps after stretching—it’s likely lacking protein support.
Hair feels overly soft or “mushy,” then dries fragile
When wet it almost melts between your fingers (no “substance”); once dry it may feel feathery yet still break easily. That floppy texture signals weakened keratin.
Limp, flat hair that won’t hold a style or curl
Even after styling, waves/curls fall out quickly because the hair shaft lacks internal strength to keep shape. Light protein can add internal scaffolding.
Frequent breakage and split ends despite good moisturising
You hydrate and oil regularly, yet see short broken pieces on shoulders/sink and ends that fray or develop white dots. Moisture alone isn’t enough—hair structure needs rebuilding.
High porosity from damage (bleach, colour, heat) and “see‑through” ends
If mid‑lengths/ends look thin, rough, and soak up product or water instantly but stay weak, the cuticle has protein loss. Targeted protein helps patch those gaps.
Nourishing hair products: Redken Extreme Shampoo; Kerastase Resistance Force Architecte Shampoo For Damaged Hair; OGX Biotin & Collagen Shampoo; Philip Kingsley Density Thickening Protein Spray; Davroe Rebuilder Treatment
