As a beauty editor, I have always been interested in skin health, and the variety of ways we can improve it. This has come in part as I managed my own battle with redness and sensitivity over the years.
Ready access to expert advice as part of my job is wonderful, but it’s also helped me understand that sensitivity is a tightrope walk of careful management. For people like me with sensitive skin, even the most seemingly harmless and soothing skincare ingredients can sometimes cause adverse reactions.
So it’s been sometimes disheartening speaking with dermatologists and skin specialists who largely have the same message about the ‘must-have’ products that help with younger-looking, brighter and smoother skin.
Other than consistent SPF use, most will suggest a retinoid product (which is a vitamin A derivative and includes retinol and retinal) as essential in treating the signs of aging.
It’s because retinol in particular is one of the most researched topical ingredients in skincare, proven to improve collagen and elastin production and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps unclog pores, so is regularly used to treat texture and acne too.
Retinol a challenging ingredient
All well and good except retinol is famously potent and can be tricky to use.
As these forms of Vitamin A work by aiding cell turnover (encouraging your skin to shed dead cells and produce new ones more quickly) those who are sensitive need to tread lightly. Even generally robust skin types can end up with irritation and dryness.
Despite being experienced and educated, I’ve had multiple run-ins with retinol products that have caused extreme full-face redness and a burning sensation, then dry, flaky fallout for days afterwards. It’s caused me to be wary, and less consistent than I want to be.
The good news is, modern formulations are easier to use than ever before, and skincare brands now cater for people with skin like mine with low-dose products designed to help you work your skin’s tolerance up slowly before getting to the more powerful results.
What is sensitive skin?
If you find yourself having itchy, tingly taut or hot skin or sudden flushing after cleansing, on contact with skincare or even after being out in the sun or wind, you might be dealing with skin sensitivity. This can be short lived,
or something that you need to manage over many years.
“When the skin barrier is compromised, the result can be visible redness, dehydration, irritation, dryness and discomfort – otherwise known as sensitive skin,” confirms Leanne Winsor, Dermalogica Education Manager.
“Sensitive skin types can also experience varying skin conditions including eczema, rosacea, psoriasis and atopic dermatitis.”
It can be a puzzle understanding triggers so ideally, Winsor recommends speaking with a qualified skin therapist. This will help to ensure you’re not making things worse with your routine or habits. In general, less is more, particularly for someone with sensitive skin.
First things first
“If you find you’re getting a reaction from your skincare, eliminate that product from use and immediately cut back on the number of products used. Use a non-complicated routine,” she advises.
“Ensure proper cleansing is taking place, then hydrate with a toner and apply a moisturiser that has ingredients to support the rebuilding of skin’s barrier function.”
She also suggests using a physical SPF (one with ingredients such as zinc and titanium dioxide are generally thought to be better tolerated by sensitive skin) as opposed to SPF with chemical UV filters.
Jocelyn Laycock, Environ Technical Educator says educating yourself in what to look out for helps.
“Look for gentle formulas that are fragrance-free, hypoallergenic, minimal-ingredient with barrier-supporting ingredients like ceramides or niacinamide”, says Lacock. She suggests being aware of alcohol, essential oils, and harsh exfoliants and instead choosing soothing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and centella.
Slow and steady use is key
Keeping your routine simple and adding one new item at a time can help identify triggers.
Patch testing can also be useful to avoid regret. “Apply a small amount to a discreet area and monitor for 24–72 hours,” says Laycock.
She also advises testing one product at a time during calm skin periods.
Another aspect that’s often forgotten is the way our daily habits can play a part.
“High-sugar, processed foods; alcohol; and spicy foods can worsen inflammation and flushing, while dehydration increases reactivity, “ explains Laycock, recommending a nutrient-rich, antioxidant-filled diet to support the skin barrier.
She points out lack of sleep and chronic stress can impair skin repair; and UV radiation, wind, cold, pollution, dry indoor air, smoking and fragranced household products can all contribute to weakening skin’s barrier.
Both experts said treatments like intense chemical peels, microdermabrasion, high-strength acids (e.g. glycolic over 10%), as well as mechanical exfoliants such as scrubs or brushes should be avoided while the barrier is
impaired and you are experiencing sensitivity.
How to use retinol
Our experts say it’s possible to use retinol by most people but the key is ‘low and slow’.
“Retinol can be safe for sensitive skin when introduced slowly and at a low strength,” says Laycock. “Patch test first, then start with infrequent use, increasing gradually if tolerated.”
If your skin becomes irritated, she suggests stopping and focusing on barrier repair before restarting at a lower level.
“Sensitive skins can use both retinol or retinal,” says Winsor, who suggests applying in a serum once or twice a week, then building up to every other day, before approaching daily application.
“What is more important is the strength (%), what formula it is in and what other accompanying ingredients are. Retinol is almost like an umbrella name for Vitamin A derivatives, and it can be used in different strengths
depending on whether it’s a moisturiser, serum or in a cleanser.”
It can be hard to distinguish how strong each product is. To help with this, brands such as Environ and Medik8 have created treatment products that come in a range of strengths, so you can start with the lowest percentage and move up to the next level once your skin has acclimatised over a number or weeks or months.
Newer forms of retinoid such as Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), often known by the trade name Granactive Retinoid, can be easier to tolerate too.
After my long journey with my skin, I have had success using this form in Elizabeth Arden’s Retinol + HPR Ceramide Capsules Rapid Skin Renewing Serum that also includes pure retinol. The serum formula is buffered with dimethicone and other soothing ingredients so it doesn’t feel ‘active’ at all. You squeeze it from the capsule and apply all over your face.
I’ve also enjoyed using Aesop’s new Resolute Facial Concentrate which uses HPR, formulated in a nourishing squalene-based oil-serum. It’s the first retinoid from the brand, and designed to be well tolerated by most peopled. You only need a few drops and its spreads well with skin feeling soft and hydrated in the morning.
How to make a retinol ‘sandwich’
Another possibility to help smooth entry into retinol use is to try the ‘sandwich approach’, popularised on social media.
“This involves applying a layer of moisturiser before and after retinol to buffer it and reduce irritation, explains Laycock.
“This technique is particularly useful for those with sensitive skin, as it minimises dryness, redness, and flaking. At Environ we love to ‘cocktail’ our products together and apply. This is a very similar method to the ‘sandwich approach’, where it buffers out the intensity of the retinol. It’s a great option for more sensitive skin as it lowers the chance of a retinoid reaction.”
She suggests trying Environ Tri Retinoid Complex Retinol Serum combined with your Environ moisturiser at night.
“After 2-3 weeks, if the skin is comfortable and there are no signs of reaction, gradually increase until daily application is tolerated and then increase to a full pump.”
