Even if you apply makeup every day, you’ll know some days, it looks better than others.
We consulted Nica Marcello, Elizabeth Arden National Education Manager, on some application traps to look out for, and some tips to ensure we ace a flawless healthy-looking finish every time.
And on the hot topic of concealer, though there has been a lot of talk recently about doing away with the need for it, Nica says she’s still a big fan.
“Personally for me, I think concealer can hide a multitude of sins,” she admits. “I suffer really bad dark circles and have done since i was younger so I don’t leave the house without concealer!”
It’s been said no concealer can help with a fresh healthy-looking finish, but Marcello says as long as it’s used sparingly, it a useful addition.
What do you look for in a concealer?
Nica: As I’m getting older I like a liquid concealer with highlighting and skincare benefits. That helps because the undereye is the driest part of our face. We don’t have any oil there, and it’s also the first part to show signs of aging.
But when I need coverage, I do like a cream. It’s also about the tones you use. A peach, or bisque, or a salmon-tone colour corrector can really help counteract that darkness under the eyes.
What are some tips for a modern foundation application?
The key is to look for a formula that best suits your skin type. So if it’s dry you want hydrating and line-plumping, or oily you want something that will help control that.
Also, quite often we find people want this natural-looking glow to skin, but then they’re going for a full-coverage makeup all over because they also want to cover their pigmentation.
Instead, I’ll suggest using a colour corrector just on the pigmentation or just a bit of concealer to minimise that.
Then I suggest trying a wash of a nice glowy foundation, it’s going to look a lot more natural than just covering everything with the heavy foundation.
We really shouldn’t be having foundation all the way out to the hairline either. We should be starting in the middle of the face and blending out, with much less on the forehead where that natural glow hits. If you cover your whole forehead, you’ll find your foundation actually looks really flat.
Nica Marcello’s (above) faves (L-R): Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour HydraPlay Skin Perfecting Daily Moisturizer; Elizabeth Arden Flawless Finish Skincaring Concealer; Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Lift and Firm Cream Makeup; Beauty Blender; Dual End Contour Foundation Brush
What do people overlook that can let their makeup application down?
Foundation can only look as good as the skin that’s underneath, so it’s really making sure that you’ve got enough hydration [in skin before beginning makeup application] and then that your skin prep is really on point.
That being said, don’t feel you have to use a million products for the sake of it. Not everyone needs to use a primer. Most moisturisers have hyaluronic acid in them which is a great priming ingredient, unless you have a really oily T-zone or you’re very dry, then you’d choose a primer to coordinate to that skin type.
It’s also about making sure you’re giving ample time for each of your prep products to actually settle into the skin, before you apply foundation.
What happens is a lot of people don’t wait and then they apply and then the foundation moves on top.
Another big one is not colour-matching correctly, the tone not being quite right. A lot of people match to their neck, but the neck doesn’t see a lot of colour so it’s not always helpful. It can help to get it professionally matched and we always say make sure you go outside and check it in natural light before you buy it.
Any other tips for a radiant, healthy finish?
I love the whole concept of glow drops, adding glow drops into your foundation before you apply it, or simply highlighting the high points of the cheek where you would have that natural glow.
Depending on your preference you could do a stick, or gel, or even powder to add that glow.
What do you use to apply foundation?
I love using a dense-bristle brush and really working, or stippling, the product into the brush before you put it on your face. So, popping the foundation on the back of the hand and using a pumping action with your brush which gets all the foundation into the fibers then blending over your face, it gives it a really airbrushed-looking finish.
If there are areas that might need a little bit more coverage or prone to redness, I use a damp Beauty Blender sponge and pop a tiny bit more just where you need it.
Sometimes it can help to use a brush to apply foundation rather than your fingers, so the oils in your fingers don’t disrupt the formula.
How do you prevent creasing?
If it’s creasing around the eyes perhaps look for more ‘filling’ eye creams with hyaluronic acid that helps smooth those lines and act as a nice primer for concealer.
Don’t be afraid of powders but instead of all over, use targeted application. Under the eye it’s about really warming that concealer, into the skin and then quickly rolling a small brush with a little bit of translucent powder over that small area to set it so it doesn’t crease.
In other areas like around the mouth, I find that using a little less foundation is better in those areas, and buffing it in.
