What do you see when you look in the mirror? Among other things, technology and social media’s popular skin-smoothing filters have impacted our own perception of skin, meaning that although it would be ideal to respond, ‘a happy smile’, or ‘kind eyes’, your reply might be more like ‘spotty pores, dimply chin’.
Oftentimes we’re not even aware a filter has been applied to a TikTok video or a friend’s holiday snap. The lack of visible pores on faces and bodies, as well as natural texture, fine lines and wrinkles on screen has contributed to many of us becoming fixated on our own, most-definitely visible ones.
Wanting to vanquish them has become a common request, but it’s all-but impossible.
Pores on the surface of your skin are actually the openings of hair follicles. Each one contains a sebaceous gland that when working correctly, produces your skin’s oils (sebum) that lubricate and waterproof the skin and hair and protect it from bacteria, and environmental challenges.
However they can become more visible when they are blocked with dead skin cells and sebum, or, thanks to sun damage or the natural aging process, when the natural structure around the pore loses its integrity and begins to sag.
The results of persistent acne and clogged pores, either in young adulthood or throughout your life, can also leave scarring. On the face, this is commonly indented areas of various sizes. On the chest and back, scars tend to be raised and lumpy. Battling a combination of blemishes and craters into or even well past your forties can feel incredibly disheartening.
One thing to know is that despite online appearances, you are certainly not alone, says Linda Sharrem, National Skincare Trainer for Caci. “We often have people describe that they feel like they look tired or older than they want to look,” she says.
“When it comes to the texture of our skin this is often because the skin feels rough, dry, and dull and the skin tone is uneven … sometimes with more obvious pigmentation spots. Surface and subsurface congestion can also lead to skin not feeling smooth and soft, which we all want!”
It is important to accept that ageing is natural and will have an impact.
“Unfortunately, pores can become more obvious and look worse over time. As we age, we lose elasticity and the skin stretches – sadly south – and this accentuates the appearance of pores and skin texture due to the skin also becoming thinner and cellular build-up.”
At-home approaches
You’ve likely heard about exfoliation, and imagine it to be key to removing pesky blocked pores and uneven skin. This is true to an extent. The occasional use of a gentle exfoliant without harsh physical particles (many use acids like salicylic, glycolic or lactic acid), designed to minimise dead skin cell build-up and balance sebum production, can be a good idea.
However, go too far and you’ll risk making the issue worse. “More is not always better,” advises Sharrem. “The process of over-exfoliating for smoother texture will lead to over-processing of the skin that can result in doing a full circle back to having visible texture and even breakouts, too.”
The use of Vitamin As like retinol or retinal, that improve skin cell turnover, unclog pores and treat signs of ageing like pigmentation and fine lines is a good option.
They should be used at night, with SPF – always essential to defend skin against damaging UVA and UVB – applied to protect that fresh new skin during the day.
“We want to balance exfoliating, tightening, and hydration to get that nice smooth skin feeling, says Sharrem, who likes Murad’s Retinol Youth Renewal Serum or Retinal ReSculpt Overnight Treatment for those who need a little extra helping hand.
She also suggests a product including niacinamide, like Skinsmiths PRO Strength Niacinamide, used during the day.
“Niacinamide is the bioactive form of Vitamin B3,” explains Sharrem. “It plays a role in healthy skin barrier function, which results in smoother and more refined skin texture. Niacinamide is also known to inhibit melanosome transfer, resulting in a lightening effect that helps even skin tone.”
Finally, she says not hydrating the skin enough, or even too much, can also lead to an imbalance. Finding the sweet spot can be a challenge.
If it’s an option for you, having a professional consultation from an expert can save you confusion, time, and money by getting personalised advice.
“The key is to commit to a skin routine recommended just for you and to be consistent to reap the results, she says.
Professional treatment options
Tackling texture is a focus of a huge number of professional treatments.
Starting out, you could consider a microdermabrasion or hydradermabrasion treatment. Non-invasive and undertaken as a one-off or as a series of treatments, after a cleanse, the skin is passed over with a wand that exfoliates and sweeps away dead skin cells, deep cleaning pores for a brighter smoother look.
Clinical-strength skin peels are another option. Applied as part of, or in addition to a facial, a solution, often a combination of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHA) and Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHA), is applied to gently dissolve the surface layer of old, dead skin and stimulate the regeneration of new skin without manual exfoliation. Renewed skin is then clearer, smoother and more even.
Microneedling is another popular treatment, once intended to treat scars, but now used all over the face and some parts of the body. The treatment uses a pen-like device that has multiple tiny needles that move together in a stamping action. The tiny needles very lightly puncture the skin’s superficial top layer which then stimulates the production of new collagen and elastin, helping to plump and rejuvenate the skin.
Laser treatments also target that collagen response, working at a deep level and heating the skin with the aim of a smoother, tighter and more youthful finish.
A marathon, not a sprint should be the approach when it comes to treating texture. Skin needs time to regenerate itself, so the best advice is to stay the course when results are slow and be consistent.
