But similarly with our go-to blue denim, it can be tricky to find a hit that suits. One does not always fit all.
It’s why finding the ‘perfect nude’ lipstick is one of the most common things makeup artists and cosmetics store assistants are asked about.
What does ‘nude’ mean in terms of colour?
Selecting a nude lipstick, one must first acknowledge the clunky facts around the word ‘nude’. According to the Oxford Dictionary, the earliest known use of the word is in the Middle English period (1150-1500) and is derived from Latin ‘nudus’, meaning naked and plain. So while we often default to using it to describe similar tones, nude is in fact not one colour, as human skin tones are a huge range of hues.
Peachy beiges, rosy blush shades, caramels and rich earth tones all are often described as nude in the cosmetics world, but do not represent the skin or lip tones of many people.
In design, global colour authority Pantone recently announced it was rethinking the way it approached the idea of ‘nude’.
“Originally associated with Western-European centric Caucasian skin tones, today we recognise that nude is different for everyone and instead refers to someone or something that is naked or untouched,” shared Laurie Pressman, Vice President of the Pantone Color Institute.
Reflecting this, it changed the colour name for Pantone 12-0911 from ‘Nude’ to ‘Peach Taffy’. It created a Pantone SkinTone Guide with 138 shades for better representation among theproducts it is used to inform including digital gaming, prosthetics, toys, apparel, beauty and much more.
Nude lipstick in a spectrum of shades
The good news is that ‘nude’ now more often refers to lip products that come in a spectrum of shades with options to accentuates but not significantly alter the natural colour of each person’s lip.
“A nude lipstick’s key purpose is to enhance the look of your natural lips, without much fuss,” says celebrity makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury.
“A barely-there yet enhanced, defined nude pout brings sophistication and elegance to any makeup look.”
Dior recently revamped its Rouge Dior lipstick, not only to increase the skin-caring ingredients, like red peony extract, in the formula but to further diversify and modernise its colour range, nude shades in particular.
New tones were developed: brownish-reds, bricks, pinkish nudes and brownish corals under the guidance of Peter Philips, makeup artist and creative and image director for Christian Dior Makeup, and the range includes 70 colours in total.
“Nude lipstick used to be a beige lipstick or a pale rosewood, but nude is now a colour that looks nude on you as an individual. For some women that’s a rosewood, for others, it’s a beige – and if you have a deeper skin tone, it could even be a chocolate or deep burgundy,“ Philips explains.
How to find the best nude for you
With all these options, comes the tricky part of finding the best nude lipstick shade to complement your own skin tone.
A good rule of thumb is that a nude lipstick should be a shade or two darker than your complexion, and have the same undertones as your skin.
It should make you look fresh and healthy. Too pale, ashy or muddy and your lips will blend into the rest of your face or leave you looking tired and washed out.
“We don’t want a ‘dead nude’,” says Daniel Martin, the artist behind Meghan Markle’s wedding day makeup. “[People with] pale skin should wear a nude that has a hint of pink.”
Sheer formulas are a good choice as they won’t overwhelm pale skin. If you have an olive complexion, stick with nude shades that have warm undertones that mimic your own. Those with darker skin tones can try deeper berry nudes and milk and dark chocolate hues.
“If you have a cooler, caramel undertone to your skin, you may find that cooler golden, caramel and beige-toned nude shades suit you best,” says Tilbury of darker skin tones.
“Beauties with richer, warmer mahogany and rose undertones to their skin should look for deeper, sweeter brown-toned nudes.”
Another way to provide definition is to choose a nude lipstick with a bit of shine. A creamier or glossier formula will give the lips more texture.
Applying a lip liner before applying your lipstick can also help adjust the tone slightly, with a tone a shade or two darker than your lipstick giving extra dimension to your mouth and helping thin lips look slightly fuller.
An easy look that is popular right now is to apply an eyeshadow and light dusting of blush in a similar shade to your lipstick for a pulled-together and coordinated look without looking overdone.
L-R: Bare Minerals Dewy Lip Gloss Balm in Hope; Dior Rouge Dior Couture Lipstick in 100 Nude Look Velvet; Jane Iredale Beyond Matte Lip Stain in Craving; Charlotte Tilbury Lip Cheat Liner in Pillow Talk and Matte Revolution Lipstick in Pillow Talk; MAC Cosmetics Macximal Lipstick in Velvet Teddy; Fenty Beauty Stunna Lip Paint Longwear Fluid Lip Color in Unveil
Hit shades to try
Though the search for the perfect colour is a very personal quest, there are some brands that have created winning formulas that seem to work well for many.
M.A.C Cosmetics’ lipstick in the shade ‘Velvet Teddy’, described by the brand as a “deep-toned beige”, was first released in 2004 and has been a top-seller ever since.
It is said to be flattering to a diverse range of skin tones thanks to its balance between brown, pink and nude pigments. Before hitting it big with her own makeup line, in 2014 Kylie Jenner shared her love of the shade, paired with M.A.C’s mauve-toned Lip Liner in the shade ‘Soar’, causing the lipstick to sell out for months on end.
“Velvet Teddy is a cosy nude with a unique undertone that works on a wide range of skin tones,” says Dominic Skinner, M.A.C director of Makeup Artistry UK and Ireland. “You can dress it up and dress it down, you line it, gloss it or leave it natural. It fits your mood and your lifestyle no matter what’s going on.”
It works equally well with a smoky eye or a natural look that leaves skin bare.
Charlotte Tilbury developed the popular ‘Pillow Talk’ shade of lipstick and lip liner from her eponymous brand she describes as a “pillow-y-nudey-pink suits-all hue”, following years of work backstage at Fashion Weeks, custom mixing her own with other products.
It was first launched in 2013 and is popular with Hollywood makeup artists for its perfect tone and longevity. ‘Pillow Talk’ works well on pale to medium skin tones – Emma Stone and Jessica Chastain have worn it to red- carpet events – while the brand also created ‘Pillow Talk Medium’, a warm berry-tinged hue, and ‘Pillow Talk Intense’, a deep tawny brown to suit darker skin tones.
Finally, Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty was founded on inclusion and choice, with an astounding 50 foundation shades in particular. So it’s not surprising that everyone from porcelain to dark-skinned beauties can find a lip colour worth their time in the brand’s selection at Sephora.
The brand’s Stunna Lip Paint Longwear Fluid Lip Color in ‘Unveil’, a “rich chocolate brown”, is touted as a shade that looks good on everybody.
Top tips for nude lips
Take note of your skin’s undertones
Use the hints of colour in your skin for a shade that looks most natural.
For example, if you have a warm olive undertone, lean towards warm peachy nudes, but if you’re someone with more of a cool or blue undertone, you’ll most likely look best in cool pinky-nude tones.
Pay attention to texture
A classic nude lipstick is a creamy texture that has a good amount of pigment, but a sheer balm or lip gloss can be easier and more flattering to wear if you’re unsure about choosing the right shade.
Swatch liberally
You can’t always trust what you see on the tube and it often looks different when applied, so online shopping can be tricky. Look for brands such as Revlon and Maybelline that have a virtual ‘try-on’ tool with a camera function and in store, ask to try the lipstick on your lips, not just your hand.
Wear a liner
Try picking a shade that’s darker than the lipstick, and then blend it into the lip colour. It prevents nude lipstick looking flat, and can make lips look fuller and plump.
