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How to find the perfect eye cream

 

Anyone who has slathered on eye cream religiously is probably well aware that as far as the signs of ageing are concerned, it’s not the easiest area to rewind the clock on. In the name of science and beauty Estée Lauder decided to research how and why the eye area ages faster than the rest of the face. “The eye is surrounded by a round muscle, which helps the eye move. Unique to this area of the face, these muscles are closely bound to the skin surrounding the eye,” explains Dr. Nadine Pernodet, Vice President, Skin Biology & BioActives Research & Development at The Estée Lauder Companies.

Each time these muscles are used, the surrounding skin moves and stretches. And it turns out these muscles are being used a lot more than initially thought. “You blink more than 10,000 times per day,” Pernodet says. “If your eyes feel tired at the end of the day, you can understand why, because based on blink rate alone, if compared to walking, the eye area’s micro- movements would be like the equivalent of the number of steps it takes to walk eight kilometres a day.” Multiply that by seven days, and each week your eyes are moving the equivalent of a marathon every single week.

“Each time we blink, smile, frown, laugh or cry there is repetitive skin movement,” says Pernodet explaining that these movements are known as micro-motions.Couple that with that fact the skin surrounding the eyes is 40 per-cent thinner than other areas of the face and has very few oil glands to keep it hydrated, it’s easier to understand why the eyes are more prone to irritation and the first signs of ageing.

Based Estée Lauder’s research, the team discovered that over time, natural collagen production in the area decreases, and irritation increases. “This stress, from micro-movements, along with the delicate features of periorbital skin, explain why this area ages faster than the surrounding facial skin,” says Pernodet. While both young and older cells were both impacted by micro-movements, Pernodet explains that while younger cells are able to naturally re-orient themselves and minimise the impact of repetitive movement, ageing cells are more susceptible to damage caused by constant movement.

 

Rewind the clock with these must-haves.

Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate Matrix ($138) features an invisible visco-elastic network that strengthens and support the delicate eye area skin. Milk Thistle works to help fight visible irritation and support natural collagen.

Peptides in Environ Skin EssentiA Antioxidant & Peptide Eye Gel ($67.10) plump the skin surrounding the eye area, while vitamin A, C and E promote collagen and elastin and fend off free radicals.

Dermalogica Stress Positive Eye Lift ($115) wakes up tired eyes by brightening and reducing the signs of stress. A cocktail of potent ingredients – wild indigo seed, arctic algae and hyaluronic acid – reduce unwanted puffiness and dark circles.

 

 

5 Beauty myths busted

 

Make-up causes breakouts and acne
For years foundation has been getting a bad rap where acne is concerned but according to skin and beauty experts we shouldn’t be so quick to point the finger: acne is a complex disease with many contributing factors. “Poor skin hygiene contributes to breakouts,” agrees Olivia Wild, Bobbi Brown New Zealand’s training and education manager. In other words: going to bed with a full face of make-up won’t do your skin any favours. “Make sure you always clean your face using a cleanser and a clean facecloth before going to sleep to remove make-up, pollution and bacteria.” Old beauty products that have been exposed to light, air and bacteria and unclean make-up brushes have the potential to unleash a host of skincare problems. “Even though you should only be using your brushes on yourself you should still be washing them at least once a week as these are the ultimate breeding ground for bacteria,” says Wild.

All natural skincare ingredients are safe
Natural-based skincare is booming, and while that’s mostly a good thing for our skin and the planet, there is a bit of confusion that comes with natural ingredients. Not all natural-ingredients work wonders for skin and not all chemicals are toxic: take essentials oils for example. “A lot of people think “Oh, essentials oils; they’re natural, so they’re safe,” says Brianne West sustainable beauty pioneer and founder of Ethique. “Some of them are poisonous and they’re not something you want to be using if you don’t know what you’re doing.” Citrus oils, which West says she has seen spotted on the ingredient listing for sunscreens, are phototoxic, making skin more sensitive to the sun. “If you put these on your skin, you’re more likely to get severely sunburnt,” explains West.

Your hair gets used to haircare so switch it up regularly
According to hairstylist and Moroccanoil ambassador Peter Beckett, you do need to think about changing up your haircare routine every now and then, but there isn’t any truth in the myth that hair gets used to haircare. “If you’re finding your hair has stopped responding to haircare it could be due to a number of reasons: perhaps it’s done it’s job and now is too heavy or too strengthening or maybe it was the wrong product in the first place,” Beckett explains. A change in seasons, climate or the way you’re styling your hair could be another reason to overhaul your haircare regimen. “It’s like skin moisturiser. Some days you need a heavier one and other days you need a lighter one,” he says.

A regular trim will make your hair grow faster
If you’re after longer tresses, a regular haircut has often been touted as the answer but Beckett says it’s one of the biggest hair myths out there. “I believe in keeping hair healthy while growing it longer,” Beckett says. But keeping hair healthy doesn’t have to involve chopping off an inch every eight weeks. “You’ll never get long hair. Leave it and use the correct haircare and if your tresses start to look like they need a little tidy then take off as little as possible.”

Moisturisers and serums do the same job
Moisturisers and serums might both promise to keep skin well hydrated but that doesn’t mean you can switch out your moisturiser for a serum says Hayley Gardiner, education manager for Estée Lauder New Zealand. “We often hear the words ‘hydrating’ when it comes to a serum so it sounds like a moisturiser but we need to use moisturiser over any type of serum to seal the skin’s moisture barrier,” Gardiner says. “Your serum is not your moisturiser; serums penetrate deep into the dermis layer to repair skin cells and work from the the bottom up,” Gardiner explains. Your moisturiser, on the other hand, seals the moisture barrier on the surface of the skin to work from the top down where it meets with the serum.

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