“We’re not saying anti-ageing any more,” says Tracy May-Harriott, international director of education for Elizabeth Arden Pro and Priori skincare explaining that no longer is your chronological age your skin age. “You need to look at your lifestyle: are you sleeping and eating well? Do you drink or smoke cigarettes? It all has an impact on skin ageing,” May-Harriott says. “You could in theory be using the same product as your grandmother because how everyone uses products is completely different. We don’t have age categories anymore, we focus on multi-functional products with synergistic blends of ingredients.” Leading Australia dermatologist and director of Brisbane Skin, Dr. Shobhan Manoharan agrees. “The market isn’t just about people in their 20s. Regardless of age it’s often the same building blocks: Vitamin As, Bs and Cs and AHAs. It’s about using various concentrations based on skin type and lifestyle.”
Faster, better, stronger
Faster, more powerful products will be the next big wave in skincare and they’re not far off according to Tom Mammone, Ph.D., Clinique’s vice president of skin physiology and pharmacology. “We’re designing products that work within days and even hours,” he says. Currently Mommone says they’ve managed to get the timeframe for seeing significant skincare benefits done to 12 weeks. “If we don’t see benefits within four weeks we probably won’t continue exploration – we’ll go back to the drawing board,” Mammone explains. “We know consumers want to see change. It’s about putting ingredients together so we can get these powerful, high potency, fast-working products. It’s really exciting.”
“Social media has influenced a number of things trend wise: heavier make-up, heavy eyebrows, heavy foundation,” says Will Malherbe, director of international education, artistry and communication for Smashbox. And while it may look good in a photograph or selfe, Malherbe explains it’s not a look that’s practical in real life. “There’s a real difference between what works on social media and what looks good in reality,” he says. But just like fashion, many beauty buffs are convinced make-up trends are cyclical and we should see more natural beauty looks return. “These girls are going to get older and they’ll need to adapt their look,” says Senior Vice President, Global Product Development for Estée Lauder. “Things evolve. The people using social media they’ll have to evolve. It’ll be about how do I make myself look younger, not how do I look like someone else.”
As much as we love make-up, beauty buffs, young and old, are switching onto the fact that good make-up, starts with great skin. Heavy foundation may dominate social media but make-up experts believe that there’s a growing awareness that natural-looking flawless skin all starts with skincare. “Skincare has been growing significantly over the last year,” says Felix Nguyen, Manager of Education and Artistry Asia Pacific for Bobbi Brown Cosmetics. “Women are realising that the key to beautiful makeup starts with beautiful skin and that their dependency on their foundations doing everything has shifted to their skincare.” As a result, we’ll see more skincare that focuses on creating the perfect canvas and skin that looks just as good without foundation.
Words: Nicole Saunders