Bra fittings are an age-old necessity many of us avoid like the plague.
Harsh fluorescent lights, uninspired dressing rooms, noisy and time-pressured purchase decisions and assistants who either lack sensitivity or expertise are common. So is finding the right size available to you.
The result is that plenty of people put up with wearing the wrong size every day, leading to straps that cut in and cups that overflow. We may even stick with the size that fit us a number of years ago, despite changes to our body in the interim.
For founders of Aotearoa lingerie brand OHEN, Anja Bucher and Lu Blade-Bittle, addressing these issues and providing options women feel good in, is key.
The brand recently established an elegant, appointment-only fitting salon in Ponsonby, Auckland designed to provide an appealing and private option. The personalised one-on-one fitting is attended by an experienced staff member.
“We always greet our clients with tea, coffee or champagne, then we have a chat about fit preferences and their needs when it comes to lingerie,” explains OHEN designer and co-founder Anja Bucher, who also welcomes groups of up to five for the unique shopping experience.
“Some women need a set for a particular outfit, whereas others are looking for a lingerie drawer refresh,” she says.
“Often we’ll start with a size and work through styles and size up or down from there, or we can take custom measurements to find sizes using our size chart. The focus is on ensuring women feel comfortable, both in the environment and the pieces.”
The importance of fit is often overlooked says the expert, who has worked in lingerie design for over a decade.
“If you can’t wait to take your bra off at the end of the day, it’s likely the wrong size,” she tips, saying a proper fit transforms how a bra feels and looks.
“The first layer you put on your body in the morning matters.”
Bucher has revealed the obvious signs your bra doesn’t fit correctly below, but says it is also helpful to remember that different styles suit different bodies.
“It is always worth trying a couple on to find the right fit for you.”
5 Signs Your Bra Doesn’t Fit
The Band – If your band rides up your back or leaves red marks by the end of the day, it’s likely too small. Your band should rest evenly around your body, providing support without digging in, shifting, or creeping up.
The Underwire – If your underwire digs in underneath or at the sides, it’s probably too small. Alternatively, if it reaches up into your armpits, the wire is likely too big. The underwire should gently frame your shape, not cause discomfort.
The Cups – Your breasts should fill up your cup but there shouldn’t be anything overflowing on the side or the top. The cups should be close fitting with no gaping of the fabric. If the cups are gaping go down a cup size. If you are overflowing on the cup, then go up in your cup size.
The Centrefront – The centre front fit depends on the style of bra. OHEN bras tend to have a more delicate, finer centre front but this doesn’t reduce its support. The centre of the bra should sit close to your breastbone, but not dig in.
The Straps – Indentations or sore shoulders are a sign your straps are too tight and you need to loosen them. If they slide off, they are probably too loose. They should be adjusted so they have just enough tension for support, but not so tight that they dig in.
For further fit advice, customers outside of Auckland or Wellington (where the brand is stocked at Underlena) or unable to book a fitting can use OHEN’s digital fitting tools. They demonstrate how to measure yourself and calculate the right size, including in the brand’s bras that run from size 10 band through to an 18, with cup sizing from A through G.
