Like learning a new language, reading ingredients lists for skincare can be hard to decipher.
In recent years we’ve become more fluent in understanding certain hero ingredients, like hyaluronic acid, retinol peptides, vitamin C. Looking out for them, often signposted on the front of bottles and tubs makes life easier in getting a great result for your skin.
This year though, will be the year we get acquainted with even more useful additions, and not just for facial products, but for the skin all over our bodies.
One ingredient that has been used for decades but we will hear far more about this year, is urea. While it has been in those ingredients lists all along, it’s name is about to elevated to, dare-we-say-it, skincare hero status.
What is Urea?
Urea is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin as part of the skin’s natural moisturising factor (NMF), that helps skin hold on to water. It plays a key role in maintaining hydration and skin barrier function and is known as a humectant.
Urea often brings up unappealing connotations, because it is also a natural component of human sweat and urine, made as a result of the body processing proteins.
Sounds bit icky but rest assured, the urea used in skincare products is lab-made to ensure purity, stability, and ethical sourcing.
So while its not the most elegant of additions given to its reputation, those with cracked heels or hands are likely to have come across the ingredient as a workhorse for shifting very dry skin in very thick creams and balms. It’s also used in other industries, including fertiliser for crops.
Now, given its impressive results for helping moisturise and smooth skin, its popularity is also extending to other more generalised body products. Modern body moisturisers in particular with far lighter textures, are including the ingredient. Some facial moisturisers even use the ingredient in lower concentrations, kiven it’s multi-tasking abilities.
Some dermatologists say urea can also help improve certain skin conditions, including psoriasis and the bumpy condition keratosis pilaris, sometimes called ‘chicken skin.’ It may also improve a condition colloquially known as ‘strawberry legs,’ the darker spots caused by hyperpigmentation at the hair follicle.
How Urea Helps Skin
Moisturises Deeply
Urea is a humectant, meaning it attracts and retains moisture in the skin, helping to prevent dryness.
Gently Exfoliates
At higher concentrations, urea helps to break down dead skin cells, making it useful for conditions like bumpy, rough or scaly skin, though concentrations of more than 10% should be used with expert advice from a GP or pharmacist.
Softens Skin
It improves skin texture and elasticity, making it beneficial for conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and keratosis pilaris.
Enhances Absorption
Urea can help other active ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin, boosting their effectiveness leading to longer-lasting hydration.
Soothes and Repairs
It supports the skin barrier and helps with irritation, helping you avoid itching and scratching, especially in very dry or sensitive skin.
