As is tradition, the world was expecting to see the first touch by Gucci’s new creative director at its Milan Fashion Week show.
But just a day ahead of that show, the Italian fashion house chose to reveal the work of Demna in a new lookbook of ‘family portraits’ for the spring/summer 20206 collection instead.
After a decade as design lead at Balenciaga, Demna has become known for mixing creative exploration with classic codes and the fashion world has been waiting eagerly to see how his approach would translate at Gucci. It appears he has begun by distilling the very essence of the revered Italian fashion house.
Though his first full show of designs is not expected until February (for autumn/winter 26), the label said the lookbook represents his work ‘defining the aesthetic base’ he will then build upon.
Titled “La Famiglia,” it is a clear intention of the direction under the new creative lead, reaffirming the brand’s reputation for luxury and glamour, and the storied history and personality that has long been linked with the brand.
In a release accompanying the lookbook, the house said the collection and the archetypes revealed in the portraits are ‘a study of the “Gucciness” of Gucci.”‘
Shot by Catherine Opie, the lookbook offers a series of characters each with their own style and personality but exuding the essence of Gucci.
With plenty of wit and charm, they include an influencer and a glamourous countess, a snob and a party boy. Each is held in gilded frames that one imagines could line the grand walls of the house of Gucci. One thing unites the characters according to Gucci: they are all the center of attention.
Opening with a large monogram trunk is clearly intended to affirm the house’s history and expertise with luggage and accessories. There is a return to plenty of house codes, including Gucci’s Bamboo 1947 bag, the Horsebit loafer (an icon since 1953), the Flora motif, and the famous GG Monogram.
Effortless elegance and dressing for pleasure are themes explored across the collection. From tailored suiting to sumptuous, glamourous gowns, and plenty of covetable handbags and sunglasses, this is a familiar vision of Gucci but with a relatable playfulness that is welcome indeed.
See all the looks, or ‘characters’, below:
