There’s a lot of research into what draws travellers to Antarctica since it’s often referred to as the most inhospitable place on earth. Professor of Protected Area Tourism and Conservation Yu-Fai Leung at North Carolina State University has looked at why the region has received an exponential growth of interest and found a variety of reasons. “Some people go to Antarctica for learning and experience, some people go to fulfill a lifetime dream, and some people go there as an adventure,” he said. Another strong motivator is social bonding in a nature-based destination.
Silversea’s Head of Expeditions Conrad Combrink has seen this phenomenon in action: “Everybody is there with the same mindset, they are there because they are curious, they want to learn.” Antarctica is often seen as the most pure of all destinations, the place to see nature at its finest and be reminded how beautiful life can be. It’s the place where you are encouraged to step out of your comfort zone and embrace wonder. For me, Antarctica was all that, and a whole lot more.
The Antarctica Experience starts long before the actual expedition begins. There are flights to South America to book, pre- and post-cruise accommodation to organise, tourist visas to apply for and the big decision of what to pack.
I travelled with Silversea, who were exceptional at organising all the details and I will be honest, pre-expedition, my levels of excitement and nervousness were in equal measure. Likewise, people’s responses to my upcoming plans were equally mixed, with the usual response either being “Why?” or “That’s at the top of my bucket list”. Two themes fuelled my nervousness: seasickness on the Drake Passage and whether I was properly prepared for the cold. I’m booked for the 15-day expedition onboard Silver Cloud from Puerto Williams, Chile to South Georgia and the Antarctica Peninsula. Thankfully Silversea provides a very detailed packing list and checklist of what needs to be done.
Getting there
I went into the trip knowing that one in 10 Drake Passage crossings could be rough, 1 in 10 could be flat, and the rest varied in between, so I needed to go prepared with seasickness medication just in case. For the cold I followed Silversea’s recommendations, and also read countless blogs of what others had packed. I was late in the season booking flights to depart on perhaps the busiest travel day of the year, December 26. So while most people from Australia and New Zealand fly directly to Santiago for a few days before flying directly to Puerto Williams on a Silversea charter flight, I took a slightly longer route to Santiago, then a stopover in Punta Arenas before spending two nights in Puerto Williams. Silversea booked us fabulous places to stay in each destination and I enjoyed seeing some of Chile and adjusting to the time zone before we boarded the ship.
While most cruises bound for Antarctica depart from the busy port of Ushuaia, Silversea depart from the quieter town of Puerto Williams. The Chilean city is located on Navarino Island on the southern shores of the Beagle Channel. The surrounding scenery is magnificent, and it’s a popular base for trekkers. The wild windswept mountains, called the Dientes de Navarino, are dusted with snow even in the middle of summer and provide a dramatic backdrop to the city. With only 2,500 residents on the whole island, the city has a village feel and it is an enjoyable place to rest and walk around ahead of our cruise.
The suite life
There’s no missing Silver Cloud when it arrives at port in Puerto Williams. Accommodating 200 guests, the ship isn’t gigantic like some ocean liners, but gorgeous and more boutique in size and – most importantly, polar class. In my excitement, we arrive early, the first guests in fact. We are welcomed with open arms and shown to our suite, and wow, what a suite it is. We are staying in a very spacious and luxurious Silver Suite (room 729), that has two bathrooms, a dining room, lounge room, a separate bedroom and dressing room and a large deck with sun lounger, outdoor table and chairs. There are two televisions, a fully stocked mini bar, coffee machine and a bottle of chilled champagne and chocolates awaiting our arrival. It’s elegantly decorated and every comfort has been considered to provide a luxurious home away from home.
My 19-year-old son has joined me on this trip of a lifetime and we both feel incredibly grateful that we can experience the adventure together. The demographic of guests onboard an expedition cruise is very different from a classic ocean or river cruise. Of the 200 guests, there’s a large contingent of multi-generational families with young adults in their 20s, parents in their 50s and some groups with grandparents in their 80s. There are small groups of friends, well-travelled couples and lots of solo travellers. Silversea are excellent at looking after their solo travellers, organising daily catch-ups and meals with other travellers and expedition leaders, so there’s always someone to share the experience with, if you wish. On our first evening we share a meal with Marie from Sweden, who gifted herself the trip for her 75th birthday. She tells us how she had watched a David Attenborough documentary decades ago and had always dreamed of going to the place the British broadcaster and biologist called one of the “most extraordinary” places on the planet. “I’m not ready to be old,” she says. “I’m ready for adventure!”
The cruise begins with three sea days en route to South Georgia. Not having grown up on boats, the thought of sea days scares me a little, but we are lucky to have calm seas and blue skies which certainly enhance the experience but what I find I adore most about sea days is that there is absolutely nothing I have to do. With a life that’s busy back home, there’s nothing quite as liberating as sea days onboard Silver Cloud. Our delightful butler Polly and constantly smiling room attendant Marivic are always ready to respond to anything we may need (including complimentary laundry) and offering things we had no idea we wanted, from champagne to fresh fruit.
We can order beautiful food to our suite whenever we’re hungry (“I can order steak and crème brûlée any time?” asks my son with glee) that Polly sets up on the dining table with white tablecloths and silverware, or we can visit one of the many excellent restaurants.
We can sleep when we’re tired, exercise at the gym or walk the outdoor track and take in the beautiful view when we need an energy boost. There’s the Zagara Beauty Spa that offers wonderful treatments (I highly recommend the Elemis Hot Stone Massage after a snowy expedition), and a complimentary sauna, steam room, heated outdoor pool and hot tubs when we feel like some pampering.
We can find a quiet nook to read in, gaze at the mesmerising sea on the lookout for the many birds, seals, penguins and whales. We can connect with guests and staff from around the world at one of the bars, restaurants or participating in activities from golf putting to trivia. There are entertaining and informative enrichment lectures each day in the Explorer Lounge, covering everything from the Ernest Shackleton expedition to learning about whale song. It’s everything we could possibly want with no pressure to do anything at all.
Treasure island
While Antarctica often takes the spotlight, the neighbouring island of South Georgia has to be one of the most picture-perfect places on the planet. We are lucky to arrive on a crystal-clear day and the sun shines despite the low temperatures. Black mountains pierce the low-lying clouds, covered in patches of dazzling white snow and tussock. The water is a perfect sapphire blue that ripples in the breeze. There are five Zodiac expeditions and two wet landings planned for South Georgia, and thanks to the kind weather conditions, we are able to do them all. For those with sea kayaking experience, there are also numerous options to take the kayaks out for group paddles at most locations.
Zodiacs are used for cruising and for wet landings, where we get off the boat in the shallow waters and go exploring (and no, we don’t get wet). It’s a highly skilled job balancing safe landings and Zodiac cruises for 200 guests but they manage it flawlessly, breaking us into six groups that are called at different times, with up to 10 people per Zodiac so there’s no waiting around. When we are called to take our first Zodiac cruise, once again my nerves mix with excitement. Thankfully Silversea are incredibly safety conscious and professional and I feel like I’m in more than capable hands. Our Zodiac driver has been doing this for many years and his knowledge of the region is epic.
First stop is Elsehul, a small, secluded bay on the northern coast which is ringed by cliffs and home to an abundance of wildlife including albatrosses, giant petrels and colonies of macaroni penguins. At the jaw-dropping Fortuna Bay we cruise by a “bergy bit” (a small iceberg ) that sparkles in the sea. But it’s the sea mammals and birds that steal the show here. Hundreds of seals frolic in the water or laze on the beach, soaking up the rays. Elephant seals awkwardly roll down the hills on their way to sea. Penguins waddle in groups on the shore, as albatrosses fly overhead. It’s busy and noisy but they all get along, paying no attention to us as we cruise by on the Zodiac. I’m in awe of what we are able to witness and to see such pristine natural beauty.
What I had read about – but hadn’t really grasped – is how quickly the weather can change here. In one minute it can go from dark skies, high winds and a dusting of snow, to sparkling sunshine that has us stripping off layers. The Zodiac excursions are weather dependent, and thanks to some high-tech equipment, Silversea can fine-tune their excursions to the safest times possible. The expedition leader also communicates the conditions so we know what to expect and whether it’s appropriate for us, and each trip we are reminded of the conservation protocols.
“Expect the unexpected,” says our Zodiac driver on a cruise around Gold Harbour. In an hour it feels like we have travelled through the four seasons. I love that unpredictability is part of the adventure. When we go onshore all of our gear has been inspected before we get on the Zodiac, and it’s cleaned and disinfected if needed so there’s no contamination. Once we are on shore only our disinfected boots are allowed to touch the ground. We can’t crouch to take a photo, or sit to rest on a rock, literally only a clean footprint can be left. We are also reminded to keep our distance from the wildlife and under no circumstance can anything be taken, including pebbles and feathers.
Our first wet landing is at Grytviken. This former whaling station is now a base for researchers and is home to thousands of king penguins, elephant seals, fur seals, petrels and more. It’s also the final resting place of famous polar explorers such as Sir Ernest Shackleton. When we arrive at the graveyard we follow the Silversea tradition of toasting the brave explorers with a shot of whiskey.
Awe-inspiring landscape
Our other wet landing is at the absolutely spectacular St Andrews Bay. Despite many years of travel, this place is possibly the most awe-inspiring environment I’ve ever visited. A bay backed by towering mountains and glaciers, a quarter of a million king penguins live here, stretching along the waterways as far as the eye can see. While we follow environmental protocols and keep our distance, penguins and seals don’t see humans as a threat and are happy to go about their everyday life preening, chatting, waddling and swimming like we aren’t there. It’s also a busy elephant seal beach and it’s a joy watching these cumbersome creatures flap around.
Crossing from South Georgia to Antarctica, I am delightfully surprised by the sea journey. Despite being told we have a moderate swell, the ship is remarkably steady and our captain does a great job of avoiding storms in the area. We were going to visit Elephant Island but the captain made the welcome decision to avoid a nasty weather system so we’ve had smooth seas all the way. Occasionally there’s a gentle rock and it’s a good idea to be aware of our step in case we need to reach for a rail for support but there’s no hint of seasickness (I did take a Dramamine so that could be doing its work) and I feel quite comfortable. While the restaurants, bars and cafés are a little bit quieter when we cross the sea from South Georgia to the Antarctic Peninsula there are still people out and about and plenty to do, from educational talks to fitness classes. I’ve relished being lazy, reading books, watching movies and replenishing a hefty sleep debt. In fact I haven’t slept as deeply for a long time and I credit the soothing roll of the ship for my deep sleep.
Snow or sunshine, most days I find myself on my balcony watching the sea for hours, and I’m always rewarded with spectacular wildlife. From whales surfacing to seals swimming beside us, it’s a sight I will never get tired of. I read a quote one morning that said, “You can’t add years to your life but you can add life to your years” and I certainly feel like I’m doing that with my Silversea cruise.
Silversea is known for being a luxury expedition cruise company with spacious and elegant suites, beautiful food, and all the amenities you could possibly need, but what really makes Silversea shine is the service, there really is nothing like it. Everywhere you go, anything you need, there is someone there ready to help with a smile. The staff-to-guest ratio is the highest at sea and you certainly notice it. There’s a team helping you to get into a Zodiac to ensure your comfort and safety, the minute you sit down at any restaurant there’s someone ready to assist, your butler is on the phone with the first ring and the large expedition team – including scientists, geologists, historians, adventurers and more – is nothing short of exceptional, and a lot of fun. I can understand why some people sail back-to-back cruises with Silversea, it’s an enticing idea.
A different world
Arriving at Antarctica is like stepping into a fairytale; words and photos just don’t do the place justice. Everything has an exquisite beauty – from the epic scale of the scenery, to penguins sliding down the snow, to the icebergs in 50 shades of blue that the ship gracefully weaves around. Some of the icebergs are so dazzling they look like they have been lit from within. We visit several harbours and each has its own unique features.
Our first landing is Mikkelsen Harbour, a ruggedly beautiful bay that’s home to a gorgeous Gentoo colony and also breeding seals. Every step offers a new perspective of the landscape, from the dramatic icy cliffs in the distance to the seals cuddling on the stony shores and it’s an overwhelming feeling to be standing on the frozen landmass of the Antarctica continent.
Our cruise around Cierva Cove offered one jaw dropping moment after another. With icebergs in every size, shape, and colour imaginable, gliding through the icy water around the breathtaking nature sculptures is thrilling. The waters are brimming with wildlife, and I see more whales on this expedition than I have in my entire 50 years. Penguins zoom past the Zodiac and waddle down the icy shores, flopping into the sea. An enormous leopard seal in a deep sleep floats by on a giant ice floe. It’s a wonderland in the truest sense.
Neko Harbour is probably my favourite destination on the entire trip. We arrive early in the morning and there’s a heavy fog sitting on the towering peaks around us. The water looks like inky black glass it’s so still. We can hear penguins chat in the distance, they can be a boisterous bunch. As the fog lifts, the scene that’s revealed is nothing short of spectacular with massive heavily crevassed glaciers surrounding us. We take the Zodiac to a pebbled landing beach and hike up to a spectacular viewpoint, giving way at the penguin crossings, so we can see the harbour in its entirety.
Next stop is Paradise Bay which delivers what the names suggest, and we cruise in on a dazzling blue day. Our Zodiac cruise follows the massive shore line into Skontorp Cove and we are treated to sights of whales leaping out of the crystal-clear waters, towering icebergs and birds resting on ice floes and in the surrounding cliffs.
We sit quiet and still in the Zodiac, drinking in the view when we hear a thunderous crack in the distance, an avalanche, thankfully a safe distance away. Our last Zodiac cruise is Foyn Harbour where a ship has been left to rust after a fire broke out and it ran aground. From our Zodiac we sit in awe watching a pod of whales surfacing, when a large fishing boat passes.
The 48 hours across the Drake pass quickly. I’m nearly disappointed it’s such a calm and soothing trip considering its notorious reputation for being such a rough passage. When I arrive home everyone is keen to hear about the trip but I think it will take me months to really understand the impact the destination has had on me. It has certainly deepened my awe of the power of nature and made me appreciate how lucky we are to be able to experience such a beautiful planet. It’s also made me realise adventure is waiting whenever we’re ready to step out of our comfort zone, because as Helen Keller so eloquently put it: “Life is a daring adventure, or nothing”.
Penguins in Antarctica
Penguins in Antarctica are one of the most iconic and resilient species to inhabit the continent. There are 18 species of penguins that call Antarctica home, all with their own traits and personalities such as the Emperor Penguin – the largest of all penguin species – the social Adélie, cute Macaroni and trumpeting Gentoos (above).
Dining Delights
It used to shock me when I met people who stayed onboard throughout an entire cruise, never leaving the ship. That was until I visited the restaurants on Silver Cloud. Then I understood. The food on Silversea rivals any fine restaurant and the variety and quality will keep you more than fulfilled the whole trip. Each of the five dining options changes its menu daily, adding numerous new dishes to old favourites so it feels like a new dining experience every time. And of course, you can’t beat the view. At every meal we are front and centre to a spectacular scene of whales breaching or penguins swimming.
The Restaurant serves à la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner. The open seating arrangement allows you to dine when and with whom you wish. The menu features classical cuisine such as fillet mignon and a fish of the day with a themed new menu each day as well as a host of new chef recommendations each day. Most seats also allow you to enjoy the landscape while dining. We could happily eat here breakfast, lunch and dinner and sometimes we did!
Pool Bar & Grill is a relaxed, open-air restaurant serving casual favourites for lunch and dinner every day. The soup of the day is always a popular choice on chilly days, and the wraps, burgers, salads and sizzling jalapeño steak are firm favourites.
La Dame [pictured above] offers an extraordinary experience where fine wines complement an exquisite menu. Our dinner here is one of the best meals I’ve ever experienced, dining on lobster salad, caviar, Chilean sea bass and pistachio soufflé.
La Terrazza serves authentic Italian dishes with beautiful produce like buffalo mozzarella from Naples, organic olive oil from Umbria, air-dried prosciutto from Parma, and 24-month aged Parmigiano Reggiano from Emilia-Romagna. La Terrazza is always buzzing, offering open-seating dining for buffet breakfast and lunch. Reservations required for dinner.
In suite dining is available 24 hours a day. There’s an extensive room service menu, a breakfast menu and you can also order from The Restaurant menu during regular
dining hours.
Plunge time
The polar plunge – where you literally leap into the Antarctic ocean for a very quick swim – is definitely a popular activity. On Silver Cloud you have one opportunity, and you have to be signed up with medical clearance to take the plunge. I opted for the more comfortable ‘plunge’ in the alfresco hot tub, with a glass of champagne in hand. But yes, next time I will definitely take the plunge as the brave participants emerged elated and invigorated.
King of the icebergs
When the edge of a glacier advances into the ocean the pieces that break off are what we call icebergs. Many thousands of icebergs are calving each year. The glacial ice that icebergs are made of may be more than 15,000 years old. Seven-eighths of an iceberg’s mass is below water and 90 per cent of icebergs are to be found in Antarctica. Seeing the world’s largest iceberg, A23a is a thrilling experience. Our captain made a detour so we could see it in all its glory. A23a split in 1986 from the Antarctic coastline and is about 400m thick, and 4,000km2 in area.
Packing for the climate
Antarctica is, on average, the windiest place on earth so it’s not just the low temperature that is cold, it’s the wind chill you have to prepare for. For excursions, think layers. I wore three layers of clothing, starting with a long merino base layer for both top and bottom. Then I wore a fleece jumper, followed by the Silversea warm waterproof jacket on top, and ski pants and a light windproof/waterproof pant. Warm waterproof gloves are a must (take 2 pairs in case you lose one) and merino glove liners are a good idea if your hands get cold. A neck gaiter and beanie are a good idea too, and lots of warm wool socks, and merino sock liners. Don’t forget polarised sunglasses as the snow reflects a lot of light. Silversea also gave us a waterproof carrier for the phone which was very handy. Walking sticks are a good idea too as the walking tracks can get a bit icy. Onboard, the ship is warm so you can wear your regular casual clothing during the day (jeans, track pants, T-shirts and jumpers), and smarter clothing for the evening (pants, dresses, skirts, collared shirts, jackets). Don’t forget your swimmers and gym gear and flat, non-slip shoes. In addition to your usual toiletries, seasickness tablets are a good idea, as are sunscreen, lip balm and facial oil as the wind can be quite drying.
Visit Antarctica with Silversea.
Photographs: Lacey Dawson, Donna Duggan.
