It’s the colours that will stay with me; green turtles, blue-footed boobies, brightly coloured Sally Lightfoot crabs, pink flamingos, maroon-brown and gold pelicans and the beige and grey shells of unique giant Galápagos tortoises, the stars of a hundred wildlife documentaries.
Black volcanic rocks conceal lava lizards, so perfectly blended into the terrain that you first notice them when the entire shoreline appears to move as one. The green, muddy brown and black shallows of the saltwater mangroves foster penguins, sea lions and flightless cormorants. Then there’s the backdrop to this remarkable isolated archipelago 1,000km west of mainland Ecuador. Its verdant highlands are home to the creatures that gave these islands their name (galápago is Spanish for giant tortoise). The deep blue wash of the Pacific Ocean is home to 550 types of fish, including 33 species of sharks, the skies filled with 85 types of birds. This is one of the most environmentally important places on earth, where the islands’ endemic animals, birds, fish and plants have evolved in isolation over millions of years.
In the footsteps of Darwin
In 1835 Charles Darwin spent just six weeks studying its creatures, but it changed the way the world views the origin of species and the process of natural selection. In seven days of luxury cruising, the exhibits of Darwin’s ‘natural laboratory’ surround you as you snorkel in the deep ocean, wade in the shallows, relax on the beaches, cruise in small inflatables beneath soaring cliffs, glide the mangroves and hike to the rim of a black basalt volcano. Our expedition was made even more memorable aboard Silver Origin, a 100-passenger ship commissioned in 2020 especially for cruising the Galápagos, spacious, stylish and seriously sensitive to its environment. There were just 78 guests but 98 crew on our cruise, including expert Ecuadorian naturalists delivering daily talks you do not want to miss.
The seven-day Silversea cruise – a circumnavigation taking in six islands – provides an insight into millions of years of unique evolution in a strictly preserved environment; 97 percent of the Galápagos is national park and tourist vessels are limited to 100 passengers. Shore excursions are tightly scheduled so at no time should you encounter another group.
After arriving in San Cristóbal – one of only a handful of settlements in the islands – a short cruise saw us anchor overnight at Kicker Rock, a shoe-shaped 140m island of compacted volcanic ash that provided a spectacular backdrop to the red and golden sunset. On Bartolomé Island, after snorkelling off the beach at Pinnacle Rock, we headed to Buccaneer Cove on Santiago Island.
Meet the wildlife
Here, blue-footed boobies hurtled vertically into the water at 100km per hour in their quest for fish. An opportunity to cosy up to multiple endemic wildlife on the islands of Isabela and Fernandina.
Cruising the shoreline by inflatable Zodiac, flightless cormorants dive deeper than any other bird in their quest for nutrients. Galápagos penguins and Pacific green turtles swim around the boat, gliding within touching distance. On Fernandina, sea lions sunbake on the rocks, surrounded by lava lizards and bright red and yellow Sally Lightfoot crabs. Camouflaged against the black lava rock, marine iguanas huddle in piles for warmth.
Having crossed the equator overnight, the day begins with an early morning landing at Caleta Tagus, a favourite spot for pirates who made their mark by carving their ship’s name into the cove rocks. It’s the only graffiti you’ll find on these islands. Then it’s a 3.5km hike up to the volcano rim and stunning views of Darwin Lake.
Post Office Bay on Floreana Island took its name from 18th century whalers, explorers and traders who deposited letters in a barrel for collection by other vessels heading home. Be sure to take a postcard with you, drop it into the barrel and see how long it takes to get back to you. Ours reached us in a couple of weeks: Santa Cruz and an unforgettable trip to the misty highlands and the giant tortoise reserve at Montemar. Yes, you can take a selfie with them, but be sure to stay at least 2m away. It was once estimated there were a quarter of a million in the Galápagos, but the arrival of humans and invasive species such as feral goats reduced the number to 15,000.
A breeding program at the Charles Darwin Research Station is providing a vital resurgence, where you’ll see babies of the species and the preserved remains of Lonesome George, the most famous giant tortoise in the world who died in 2012 aged 102.
A few hours in the charming town of Puerto Ayora is regrettably the only opportunity to experience island life, with a glimpse of the fish markets, fruit shops, craft markets, restaurants, bars and art galleries. But then this expedition is about the unique creatures of the islands evolving in isolation over millions of years – like the white, grey and brown Galápagos mockingbird. It is the only mockingbird in the world not to mimic other bird calls, instead evolving its own melodious distinct song. It is said that this tiny bird was the greatest influence on Darwin’s development of the theory of natural selection.
This cruise had many special moments, but one was unforgettable. While deep-water snorkelling around Isabela Island and drifting effortlessly with the current, I suddenly found myself encircled by a trio of sea lions, which had flopped into the warm ocean from their resting place on the black lava rock.
A few moments later, a pair of Gálapagos penguins joined in the fun, with playful feints at my mask. Colourful fish were all around. For the privilege of such awe-inspiring encounters, this may just have been the cruise of a lifetime.
Enjoy the suite life onboard
Aside from its state-of-the-art design and use of eco-friendly technology, Silver Origin offers the largest and most luxurious accommodations in the Galápagos region. The raw materials for carpentry, upholstery, finishing and decorations of all eight accommodation decks consist of sustainable, natural, regionally inspired materials. It has 51 staterooms divided over decks five and six and a capacity to host a total of 102 passengers. The Owner’s Suite, Grand Suite and Royal Suite – the largest in the Galápagos – feature separate indoor and outdoor living areas, whilst all other suites have large, private veranda/balcony arrangements. Designed by Giacomo Mortola, Silver Origin’s all-suite accommodation has been conceived with the uniqueness of the islands in mind. Guests can relax or enjoy naturalist presentations and excursion information sessions in the Explorer lounges on deck four. On deck three, the outdoors and indoors Basecamps are home to the tourist offices and there is also a Stargazing Platform on deck eight. Breakfast, lunch and dinner are served in the restaurant on deck four. The barbecue bar area on deck seven offers a more casual dining space and dinner under the stars.
