There’s more than one way to get from Dunedin to Queenstown (or vice versa, depending on where you touch down), but one of the most varied is ‘The Waitaki Way’. This scenic route traces the coast north from Dunedin before turning inland through Waitaki and climbing the majestic Lindis Pass towards Queenstown. It’s a journey that reveals New Zealand in layers: from Dunedin’s rich history and salt-tinged southern light to vineyard-dotted valleys, past braided rivers and into Central Otago’s schist-stacked vistas and big-sky country. Wānaka’s dreamy lake views complete the picture before you step into the high-energy hum of Queenstown.
This road trip offers a true cross-section of South Island life, and even better, it’s a route where eating well comes easily, adding an extra, delicious dimension. These are some of the places we stopped on a recent road trip, and highly recommend you do, too.
Dunedin
Dunedin eats well on any day, but if you happen to be in town on a Saturday, the Otago Farmers Market is an essential stop. Set in the shadow of the rather grand Dunedin Railway Station, it’s a vibrant snapshot of the region’s produce and people: super fresh fruit and vegetables (Central Otago stone fruit is some of the best in the country), bread just hours out of the oven, smoked salmon, unctuous cheeses and flaky pastries, plus more unexpected finds like Goan curry paste and Syrian street food.
When it’s time for a drink, Emerson’s Brewery is a gathering place for locals and a welcoming space for visitors curious about Dunedin’s craft brews. Its taproom balances a beloved core range with a rotating line-up of inventive seasonal (often weekly) releases. If creative food cooked with serious skill is your thing, dinner at award-winning Moiety is a must. The chef’s deep connection to Otago produce (and the people who grow and make it) is best experienced through the five-course ‘Just Feed Me’ menu.
Waitaki
Leaving the city behind, the road unfurls along the coast towards Oamaru, one of the South Island’s most unique small towns. A pause at the Moeraki Boulders on the way is almost compulsory, and the perfect excuse for a stop at The FishWife for their legendary fresh blue cod, crayfish and golden chips. From the nightly waddle of little blue penguins (possibly the most adorable thing you’ll ever see) to the grand limestone buildings of the Victorian Precinct plus the town’s identity as New Zealand’s Steampunk Capital, there’s never a dull moment in Oamaru. Settle in with a cold pint at Craftwork nanobrewery, or a warming flight at The New Zealand Whisky Collection. Whitestone is the place to explore some of the country’s favourite cheeses. And then there’s the wine. A tasting flight and one of River-T Wines’ produce platters, enjoyed looking out over the vineyard to the mountains beyond, can easily stretch into a whole afternoon.
If you’re staying overnight in Omarama, enjoy refined country cooking at Omarama Lodge. Fresh salmon sourced just up the road is served as sashimi, smoked onsite, or as a main. And if you’re looking for salmon to take with you, the deli at High Country Salmon before Twizel can’t be beaten.
Wānaka
The drive over the Lindis Pass is spectacular, make sure you stop at the lookout to truly take it all in before descending to Tarras and on to Wānaka’s easy, breezy vibe. This tiny town has plenty of options, but one of our favourites has to be Arc, just minutes from the lake.
This crowd are known for their creative cocktails, addictive house-baked bread and famous seasonal set menus shaped by what’s currently good from their favourite local farmers, hunters and fishermen. They win awards for a reason.
Central Otago
Among Central Otago’s many culinary highlights, Carrick Winery in Bannockburn never fails to impress. Aside from its fantastic wines, there’s some very creative fine dining packed with local ingredients in the restaurant, or the more relaxed option of wood-fired pizzas from the trailer outside, depending on your mood. Whichever you choose, it’s served with a side of gorgeous mountain-meets-lake views.
The Packing Shed near Clyde is another much-loved local haunt, and it’s easy to see why. The food is first rate, but the appeal goes well beyond the plate. Set among gardens and orchards, the grounds are a delight with fresh flowers everywhere, and outdoor tables ideal for long, lazy lunches.
Queenstown
From Amisfield to Fergburger, everyone is aware of Queenstown’s fabulous food spots. But two excellent new options have perhaps flown under the radar.
Swiftsure in Arrowtown is Man O’ War’s first, very successful venture outside of its famous Waiheke Island base in Auckland and boasts an all-day bold and fun bistro menu.
Boat Shed Bakery has only been open just over a year. Right on the water at the marina, you’ll fall in love with pastries, croissants and other sweets (don’t miss the choux) made by a super-talented Dutch baker and ex-culinary tutor that will rival your best Paris, Amsterdam and Berlin memories.
The Waitaki Way is an unforgettable road trip where the food rivals the stunning landscapes.
For more information, visit southernway.nz
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