Showcasing the Ready-To-Wear Spring Summer 23 collection on the Paris Fashion Week runway, Christian Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri took inspiration from French queen Catherine de Medici.
The 16th Century queen was said to have introduced corsets, platform heels, and Italian lace to the French court, and Chiuri played on a blend of those in both historical and modern elements, displayed in Dior’s meticulous craftsmanship.
Chiuri called de Medici, ‘an emblematic figure in understanding the relationship between women and power’.
“She has fascinated me for her political intelligence and for the many innovations she brought to France,” she shared on her Instagram.
But while the textural ensembles took Renaissance references, the makeup look created by Dior’s creative and image director Peter Philips, has a thoroughly modern touchpoint.
“Of course the main inspiration of the collection is Medici, a very powerful woman,’ Philips told ELLE backstage. ‘A Renaissance icon in France but also across the world actually. But then she showed me this picture of a girl on social media.’
The girl was Austrian model and actress Stella Lucia Deopito and the image was on her Instagram (below) wearing a similar look to that which was subsequently recreated for the show.
Philips says he was taken with the contrast of a historic figure and then a girl who is ‘contemporary, taking selfies in her bedroom’.
The idea came full circle as Chiuri and Philips cast Deopito as a model in the show.
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Philips is no stranger to a bold liner look, but this season’s cool-girl approach was a new take.
“The eyes are emphasized with two lines that cross over at the inner corner of the eyelids. It’s a look with both punk and chic accents,” Philips explained.
“At the outer corner I traced a precise straight line that gives us a slightly rough, rock finish says Philips. “The element of surprise lies in the inner corner of the eyelids, where the two lines cross over and create a graphic confluence.”
The rest of the look was subtle and simple, with skin nourished with Dior Capture Totale Super Potent Serum and then perfected with Dior Backstage Face and Body Foundation and a touch of Dior Backstage Face & Body Flash Perfector Concealer.
“Lips looked very natural and were hydrated with the new Rouge Dior Forever [lipsticks] chosen from among eight nude shades to suit each model,” says Philips.
Hair was glossy and relaxed, styled in loose bunches tied low, close to the ears on either side of the head in a similar manner to Deopito’s original look.
Images: Olivier Rose for Christian Dior Parfums