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Five minutes with: Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared

Can you tell me about the inspiration behind the limited edition makeup collection you’ve collaborated on with M.A.C?

DAN: It’s old Hollywood meets new Hollywood. Our girl is interrupted – she’s on a set, she’s off the set; she’s young, she’s cool, she’s moving, she’s very now, she lives in the moment. Hollywood today is a different story than it used to be. These girls have tons of things to do, they’re on the go.

DEAN: It’s all about mixing great statement pieces with their own things; she might have a $20,000 jacket that she puts with a pair of $10 sweat pants.

DAN: Less is more, but more is never enough. Stack it on and mix it up. It’s such a change because Hollywood used to be regimented, it used to be so perfected, not a hair out of place and now it’s undergone this huge revolution with a new generation of stars.

DEAN: They’re so young and they’re real, they want to be individual, they don’t want to be dictated to anymore. These girls practically live their whole lives in the public, it’s just not possible for them to keep up that carefully crafted façade actresses used to put up.

DAN: Thank God for that – it makes them more colourful, it makes them more interesting. If anybody does anything well it should look effortless, I think the key expression for the collection is “Effortless Makeup”; she didn’t spend hours but she looks amazing and, more importantly, memorable.

Can you tell me a bit more about the actual collection that you’ve created with M.A.C?

DAN: It’s about a very important dark eye, but a multi-hued black, not a flat black.

DEAN: It’s kind of a “rock-on” make-up statement, but it’s unforced, purposefully messy.

DAN: This girl didn’t spend hours doing her make-up but she looks amazing. It’s cooler than being too studied. Young Hollywood doesn’t need to impress anyone; the same goes for the make-up, she’s not about blending it perfectly.

DEAN: The longer it’s worn in, the better it looks. I love the idea that the application is easy, it’s markers, pencils, powders and you can use your fingers to put them on.

DAN: Use Kohl Powder in Feline and Greasepaint Stick with Zoom Fast Black Lash, and then they’re lightened with peacock and violet Greasepaints. After you’ve put all that black on the eye and those two vibrant colours, you add an eye gloss to bring light to hidden things. So the eyes will be really dramatic!

Tell me about the model you chose to be shot backstage for the make-up collection.

DEAN: As this season is inspired by young Hollywood, those young cool girls, they are carefree, cool and easy.

DAN: We just thought Valeria was one of the coolest girls in the show. We like those girls that don’t care, you can see it in the way they walk and the way they carry themselves, it’s relaxed. It’s not like she is trying to be a glam goddess, I don’t even think she knows how beautiful she is.

DEAN: They don’t take themselves too seriously, which makes them cool.

Why did you decided to collaborate with M.A.C?

DEAN: M.A.C is a part of our family, we grew up with them. We’re Canadian, they’re Canadian, and it started there.

DAN: M.A.C has been very supportive of us from the beginning of our design career, so it’s a natural link.

Because you all met when you were quite young didn’t you?

DAN: We have the longest history with Gordon (Espinet). We grew up together, and actually have a lot of things in common. We always used to play around with make-up anyway, so it’s not like Dean and I don’t know anything about make-up. We knew how we wanted the eyes to be, with the colour and the black, coming up with great ideas for the final look was really a very smooth process.

DEAN: M.A.C is the best make-up brand around. Let’s not forget about that!

DAN: Neither company takes itself too seriously, M.A.C is really expressive and DSquared² are on the same trip. We both have strong connections with pop stars, music and fashion – we’re certainly on the same page.

Did M.A.C inspire you when you were starting out? It was so seminal in the nineties, DSquared² was around at the same time and the M.A.C look was so different to anything else on the market.

DAN: I think M.A.C was probably one of the first cosmetics companies that came out with colours and pigments that you didn’t find, colours that were unusual.

DEAN: They were and are make-up pioneers.

Was it nice to be able to apply your creative process to a medium such as this one?

DAN: Absolutely, we are very creative people, as is M.A.C. They really understood what we wanted and have stayed true to our vision. Also, because we’ve known each other for a long time, M.A.C knows what we’re about.

Spring looks

EYES

Coloured eyeliner and bright eye shadows have graced the spring/summer runways this year, replacing winter’s palette of brown, black and grey. While the thought of blue eye shadow may send shudders down the spine of any ’80s child, Petra Rijnbeek, LancĂ´me New Zealand national make-up artist, suggests, “When you are wearing a strong colour, such as indigo blue, you need to take the shadow under the eye to complete the whole story and give it more of a modern, smoky feel.” Alternatively, try wearing two shades of the one colour, applying the lighter shade to the inner corner of your eye and then gradually adding the darker shade as you blend outwards. For a sophisticated evening look, Meghan Thomson, Bobbi Brown education manager, suggests wearing silver, gold or bronze metallic eye shadow with a generous coating of mascara.

LIPS

Lipstick trends are taking three clear directions this season: nude, sheer and bold. For nude lips, dab concealer or M.A.C Lip Erase (RRP $40) on your lips followed by a light coat of lip balm. For sheer lips, look for translucent lipsticks and glosses or lighten your usual lipstick with a touch of lip gloss. For bold colour, try hot pinks, corals and reds, but tone it down by applying the lipstick lightly with your ring finger. Apply the colour more heavily on the middle of your top lip to emphasise your cupid’s bow. For a real ’80s rock look, try a two-toned lip: red on top, pink on the bottom. Coloured lips should be worn with groomed brows and neutral eyes.

BLUSH

Rather than peach or bubblegum-pink tones, cheeks are taking on more of a bronzed look this season. Use blush and illuminating products to sculpt and contour your cheekbones.

Expert tip:

“As well as emphasising cheekbones, blush helps to reflect colour back into your eyes, making them look clearer and more sparkly.”
 – Petra Rijnbeek, LancĂ´me New Zealand national make-up artist.

NAILS

“Spring calls for coloured nails. 
Keep it bright with oranges, pinks 
and corals. For a darker nail, go for variations of blues or purples.”
Rebecca Prior, Napoleon Perdis international make-up artist.

FACE

Your skin should look fresh, healthy and hydrated with a finish that is neither matt nor shiny. Brows should be well groomed, but keep them full, soft and natural.

See a range of products to help you get this look at our Best Beauty Buys: Make-up gallery.

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