The Mississippi is more than just a river; it is a living, breathing chronicle of American history and a conduit of culture, most notably food and music. Often called the ‘spine of America’, it stretches from Lake Itasca, Minnesota, to the Gulf of Mexico, carving through 10 states and countless communities.
Visually the river shifts with the seasons and regions. In the north it’s a quiet trickle, clear and narrow and surrounded by evergreen forests. As it journeys south, it swells and deepens, passing through plains and farmland.
When the Mississippi enters the lower southern states – including Tennessee, Mississippi and Louisiana – it becomes increasingly sinuous, flowing through the rich, alluvial soil of the Mississippi Delta. Here the landscape flattens and the water takes on a silty, brown hue, alligators lurking in the shadows. Cypress trees rise from the swampy shoreline, with Spanish moss hanging like lace curtains from their branches. The Mississippi in the ‘Deep South’ is not just a body of water – it is a lifeline for ecosystems and communities, and a cruise along its winding path is a fascinating cultural and historical look at the changing face of America.
We cruised upriver from New Orleans to Memphis on the Mississippi Delta Explorer river cruise, enjoying some perfect onboard Southern hospitality. The Viking Mississippi was custom-built in 2022 for Mississippi River sailings, with the ship’s cutting-edge design, expansive windows and comfortable amenities making it the first modern cruise ship in the region. Hosting only 386 guests, the river ship has Viking’s signature Scandinavian style of clean lines, neutral tones and natural materials, beautiful staterooms and suites, onboard lecture program, extensive excursion offerings and the destination-focused dining Viking is renowned for – but with an all-American crew and lots of Southern charm.
The Mississippi Delta Explorer river cruise is one of those rare opportunities to slow down. Every comfort and consideration is attended to, and things move at a calm and comforting speed, allowing you to really enjoy the process. Want to rest? No problem. Stretch out on the Sun Terrace and enjoy the view, take a dip in the Infinity Plunge pool or pick a book from the library. Looking for something more upbeat? Grab a cocktail and listen to the nightly tunes in The Living Room. In true Viking style, and because we are in one of the world’s great musical heartlands, this isn’t some run of the mill cruise show.
Each night features a world-class act – from Wendell Brunious, who has led the famous Preservation Hall Jazz Band since 1978 to Cajun musician Bruce Daigrepont. Where the Viking Mississippi also really shines is its exceptional excursions, with many varied options at each stop. Excursions on the Viking Mississippi show the breadth and depth of what the Mississippi has to offer; from its role as a trade route supporting the antebellum period and its grand mansions, its part in slavery and the American Civil War, and its major influence on literature, music and cuisine.
Crawfish town
We begin our Viking experience with a two-night pre-cruise extension in vibrant New Orleans. Long before European explorers arrived, the Mississippi was central to the lives of numerous Indigenous tribes. The Mississippian culture (c. 800 CE to 1600 CE) built complex societies along the river which served as both a spiritual and economic artery.
In the 16th century, European explorers ventured into the Mississippi Valley, and the river became a contested space among European powers, shifting hands between France, Spain, and Britain before ultimately becoming part of the United States through the Louisiana Purchase in 1803. Steamboats, introduced in the early 19th century, revolutionised transportation and commerce on the Mississippi and cities such as St. Louis, Memphis, and New Orleans flourished as trading hubs. Cotton, timber, sugar and tobacco fuelled economic growth.
However, prosperity came at a cost. The Mississippi River was integral to the expansion of slavery in the Deep South. Enslaved African Americans were transported via the river, and their labour underpinned the region’s agricultural economy, making the river a symbol of both opportunity and oppression.
Because of its history, New Orleans has a rich cultural heritage, vibrant music scene, unique cuisine and enduring spirit. A city that blends French, Spanish, African and American cultures, New Orleans has influenced generations of artists, musicians, and travellers from around the world. Founded in 1718 by French colonists – whose influence remains visible today with the world-famous Mardi Gras and in the French Quarter with its beautiful wrought-iron balconies, colourful façades, and narrow streets – New Orleans played a significant role during the antebellum period (early to mid 1800s), serving as one of the largest ports in the country. Its distinctive cuisine also reflects its multicultural roots, and you can’t go wrong in the city whether dining at a fine restaurant or enjoying a po-boy sandwich from a street vendor. The fusion of French, Spanish, African, and Native American influences create flavourful dishes with Creole and Cajun cooking dominating, featuring dishes such as gumbo, jambalaya and crawfish étouffée. New Orleans is also the place to indulge in beignets – sugar-dusted, fried dough pastries.
New Orleans’ melting pot of cultures also created a fertile ground for musical innovation. The unique cultural mix led to the birth of Jazz music, which emerged from a fusion of African rhythms, blues, ragtime, and brass band music. Legendary musicians like Louis Armstrong, Jelly Roll Morton and Sidney Bechet were born or started their careers in New Orleans, performing in the clubs and streets of the city. Still today, music is everywhere in New Orleans – from brass bands parading down the streets to live performances in clubs on Frenchmen Street.
A checkered history
In New Orleans we board the beautiful Viking Mississippi and head upriver to Darrow, a gateway to the historic mansions of the antebellum era. Here, grand houses built by slaves share the riverscape with moss-draped oak trees and farm fields. Excursion options include the Whitney and St Joseph plantations (where films including 12 Years a Slave were filmed), an amazing Cajun Swamp Experience (including feeding local alligators) and a free guided tour of Houmas House, built by sugar barons and their enslaved labour force in the early 1800s. It’s hard not to be impressed with Houmas House with its incredible artwork, sculptures and sheer size. Interestingly the owner still lives there, and I’m surprised that nowhere is off limits, even the master bedroom and the room where Bette Davis filmed the horror film, Hush…Hush, Sweet Charlotte. It’s a fascinating mix of history, culture, great wealth, striking architecture and immense suffering. A real-life example of Mark Twain’s 1885 novel set on the Mississippi, The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn, where oppression and opportunity are two sides of the same coin.
Next stop is the delightful St Francisville. This quaint town is set along one of the most historic bluffs of the Mississippi, boasting more than 140 buildings on the National Register of Historic Places. I opt to visit the Rosedown Plantation State Historic Site, with a tour of the South’s most intact manor home.
Next stop is Natchez, the oldest city on the Mississippi. We opt for the Soul Food and Music excursion and it doesn’t disappoint. After a tour of the Dunleith Historic Inn mansion, we walk to the on-site Castle restaurant and indulge in some classic Southern dishes prepared by the fabulous cook, Stella Fry. I’m glad I wore my stretchy pants as we tuck into fried chicken, candied pumpkin, fried okra, black-eyed peas and biscuits, followed by pecan pie.
Appetite sated, we head to the Zion church to learn about the evolution of African American music in the South, and hear some very beautiful gospel music. While Natchez is known for its opulence and stately mansions, the lives of thousands of enslaved African Americans were the backbone of its prosperity, and the life of the enslaved in Natchez was shaped by gruelling labour from sunrise to sunset, six days a week. Despite the brutal conditions in which they lived, the enslaved people formed tight-knit communities, with their Sunday church service and a community meal playing an important role. To make their days a little more tolerable, they sang songs which often carried messages. Gospel music has its earliest roots in the spirituals sung by enslaved African Americans. These religious folk songs blended African musical elements (such as call-and-response) with biblical themes and Christian hymns. Gospel deeply influenced other Southern music genres such as blues, soul, rock ‘n’ roll, and country. Also, for many African American musicians, the church was their first stage. Aretha Franklin, Sam Cooke, and Al Green all began singing in church choirs before transitioning to popular music.
After a quick stop in town of Vicksburg – where Coca-Cola was first bottled and Abraham Lincoln labelled the city “the key to the South” during the Civil War, we head to Greenville. Mississippi’s largest river port, Greenville’s rural setting belies a diverse artistic heritage. The Muppets creator Jim Henson was born here, and the city has been home to numerous authors, including historian Shelby Foote. Greenville as part of the Mississippi Delta is also home of the blues and neighbouring Indianola was the hometown of the legendary B.B. King. The Delta region between the Mississippi and Yazoo Rivers is often called the ‘Cradle of the Blues’ with the style originating from the work songs and spirituals of African American labourers. Life in the Delta was marked by hardship, and the blues became a means of expression and emotional release. Themes of love, loss, injustice, and survival pervade the music. In Greenville we join the fabulous Steve Azar’s Mississippi & B.B. King Museum tour, hosted by Greenville-born and award-winning singer-songwriter Steve Azar. The tour includes a delicious meal of regional favourites enjoyed while we watch a spirited performance by Azar and his band, as well as other exceptional Mississippi artists. We then travel on to Indianola, B.B. King’s hometown and the site of his museum. The collection of memorabilia is dizzying as we learn about King’s life and the broader story of the Delta.
Culinary storytelling
Blues music often references food, linking nourishment to emotion and expression. The food of the South is inseparable from its cultural backdrop – one of sorrow, survival, celebration, and hope. Food along the Mississippi is not just sustenance – it is storytelling. Each bite reveals the imprint of Indigenous cultures, French and Spanish colonists, African heritage, and agricultural innovation.
Onboard Viking Mississippi, we can dine on fresh regional fare or international favourites. Dining options include the lovely Aquavit Terrace that offers grill options for lunch and dinner, from crab legs to perfectly barbecued steak. The River Café offers a generous buffet for breakfast, lunch and dinner with a constantly changing menu. The Restaurant is the main dining venue featuring delicious regional cuisine and much-loved classics. Our favourite spot on the ship is the spacious Explorer’s Lounge at sunset where you can enjoy a drink (and yes, moonshine is on the menu) with picture-perfect views of the river, either indoors with floor-to-ceiling windows and soothing decor or out on The Bow in a gorgeous rocking chair for some true Southern living. The regional dishes are a standout including Creole cuisine with its roux-based sauces, shellfish, and the use of tomatoes and peppers. Barbecue is also a hallmark of Southern culinary identity and on board we are treated to some fabulous ribs, dry rubs, and pulled pork, highlighting a regional mastery of slow-cooked meats. When the Mississippi river valley thrived in the 19th century, producing corn, wheat, soybeans, and livestock on an industrial scale, foods like cornbread, meatloaf, pot roast, and casseroles became common in Southern homes. And of course the river itself continues to supply fish and game, with fried catfish often on the menu.
Our last stop, Memphis, is where we disembark from the ship. Located in the upper Mississippi Delta, it is a city where musical genres intersect and civil rights has a long and storied history. Memphis was a major centre of the cotton trade in the 19th century, which depended heavily on slavery. Like much of the South, Memphis enforced strict racial segregation and discrimination.
One of the most pivotal events in Memphis’ civil rights history was the Memphis Sanitation Workers’ Strike in 1968 when over 1,300 Black sanitation workers went on strike to protest dangerous working conditions, poor pay, and racial discrimination. Dr Martin Luther King, who came to Memphis to support the sanitation workers, was assassinated at the Lorraine Motel, which still stands today, and was transformed into the National Civil Rights Museum in 1991. His death became a defining moment in American history and galvanised support for the civil rights cause.
Rock ‘n’ roll’s birthplace
In Memphis we stay at The Westin Beale Street which is perfectly located in the heart of Memphis’ music scene. Beale Street is lined with clubs, bars, restaurants and record stores, including the soul-stirring B.B. King’s Blues Club. No trip to Memphis would be complete without visiting the legendary Sun Records, Stax Museum and a pilgrimage to Graceland. In the 1950s, Sun Records revolutionised music by recording artists who blended blues, country, and gospel into what became known as rock ‘n’ roll. Elvis Presley, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and Carl Perkins all got their start at Sun Records. Stax Records, founded in 1957 in Memphis, was also instrumental in shaping soul music. It produced hits by Otis Redding, Isaac Hayes, and Booker T. & the M.G.’s. Stax also provided a platform for African American artists and played a role in the Civil Rights Movement by promoting racial integration through music.
Today the Mississippi remains crucial for commerce, transporting over 500 million tons of cargo annually, and also serves as a recreational and cultural asset, drawing tourists and historians alike. The musical history and cuisine – in particular from New Orleans to Memphis – is testament to the region’s cultural richness and resilience, shaped by the experiences, struggles, and triumphs of its people.
Graceland
Memphis’ biggest drawcard is Graceland, Elvis Presley’s former home. More than just a mansion and museum, Graceland is a shrine to the ‘King of Rock n Roll’. I was astounded by the extensive access to the home and its sheer size. On one side of Elvis Presley Boulevard is the mansion itself, and the other side features the museum, with his costume and car collection. The tour is self-guided via headphones and iPads through a home preserved much as it was when Elvis lived there. There’s an intimacy to seeing how Elvis lived, with family photographs lining the wall, and décor that showcases his bold tastes and eccentricity. Whether you are an Elvis fan or not, it’s a must-visit.
Soul Food
Enslaved Africans created what would later be known as soul food, a cuisine that reflects both resilience and creativity in the face of oppression. Pork fat, collard greens, cornmeal and legumes formed the basis of many dishes. Cornbread, fried chicken, chitlins, candied yams, red beans and rice are iconic elements, as well as the use of every part of the animal – offal, neck bones and trotters are all traditional fare.
Nashville
Viking also offer an excellent 2-night extension to Nashville, staying at the fabulous Omni Nashville Hotel. A trip to this city is a lot of fun with its row of country music venues on Lower Broadway. There’s lots to see including The Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, Historic RCA Studio B, Johnny Cash Museum, Ryman Auditorium, National Museum of African American Music and distillery tastings. Nashville’s food is also spectacular. Be sure to book tickets to the Grand Ole Opry early, with performers including some legendary country music performers.
