“Killer whales. Five minutes ahead. Starboard side.” We are only a few hours out of Vancouver harbour onboard Holland America Line’s MS Koningsdam, when Captain Frits Carsjens makes his first wildlife sighting announcement. Binoculars and cameras at the ready, we scour the still waters for the black and white orcas from the comfort of our balcony, before joining others on deck for further possible sightings.
We are on a week-long Alaska Inside Passage cruise from Vancouver up the Inside Passage to Tracy Arm, Juneau, Skagway, Glacier Bay National Park and back via Ketchikan to Vancouver and I am surprised to hear so many Australian accents. We later learn we number 777 – more than the ubiquitous Americans (583), Canadians (678), British (419) and New Zealanders (16).
Our Veranda stateroom on Deck 10 is most comfortable with spacious shower recess and bathroom with Elemis toiletries, abundant storage, twin bedroom with adjacent lounge and furnished veranda. Room stewards Putu and Immanuele service it twice daily. They’re always in good humour and obligingly fit in with our erratic timetable around excursions.
The MS Koningsdam impresses with its discreet housekeeping team who constantly keep its fittings gleaming and corridors well-vacuumed despite the normal everyday traffic of passengers. To me, the ship never feels big and passengers rarely having to queue for anything.
A quick reconnoitre of this 297 metre-long mid-sized ship reveals well-appointed common areas over its 12 decks, 11 restaurants, 17 lounges and bars, with 24-hour room service and a crew of 850 to take care of us all.
12,000 meals every day
Under the guidance of Executive Chef Darran Salisbury, the ship’s galley kitchens produce some 12,000 meals a day. It’s a credit to Chef Darran and his team for the consistently high quality of cuisine served in all restaurants. Highlights for me are the classic garlicky snails and exemplary Dover sole served in Rudi’s Sel de Mer, the indulgent Siberian caviar and tomahawk steak I share at the Pinnacle Grill, the fresh mussels and clams with spaghetti at the Italian Canaletto, the fresh sushi platter, pork gyoza and lobster pad Thai at celebrated chef Masaharu Morimoto’s pop-up restaurant – Morimoto by Sea, and the Asian-inspired Tamarind with its Taste of Tamarind sampler, pork baos, coconut scallops and Thai basil Szechuan shrimp.
Iron Chef Morimoto is Holland America Line’s fresh fish ambassador, the cruise company being the first to serve 100 per cent fresh, certified sustainable Alaskan seafood onboard its ships in Alaska. This might be black cod, cod, salmon, Dover sole, King salmon, rockfish or Alaskan Dover sole. Last year the program expanded beyond Alaska. Hence in Australia, you might be served fresh barramundi, Murray cod, flathead or Tasmanian Atlantic salmon and ocean trout.
Excursions are a major part of the enjoyment of any cruise. Those offered onboard MS Koningsdam are well-thought out and include the carving and totem pole culture of the local First Nations Tlingit people; meeting dog-mushers who breed and train Alaskan Huskies for the state’s celebrated annual 1100-mile Iditarod Trail Dog Sled Race that links some of the most remote communities each March en route to Nome; a chance to see how the thousands of gold prospectors sought to make their fortunes during the Klondike gold rush of the late 1890s; baring witness to numerous glaciers – even flying over them in a light aircraft or helicopter and landing on them; riding the White Pass and Yukon Route Railroad to the summit for spectacular views following the route of early prospectors who made the journey on foot, and more. The opportunities are endless, but all are designed to enhance and enrich your knowledge of the region in a fun and educational way.
Adventures at sea
We join seasoned fishermen on a Bering Sea Crab Fishermen’s Tour out of quaint Ketchikan on the Aleutian Ballad, the same crab fishing vessel made famous when it was hit by a rogue 60ft wave – all of which was captured in the television series, Deadliest Catch. Each tells their daring adventures at sea, explains how various seafood species are caught, and throw bait overboard to attract a huge flock of bald eagles that live around the pristine fishing grounds of the Metlakatla Indian reserve waters. I’m told it’s one of the most popular excursions offered.
However, one of the best days is at sea, silently gliding up eerie Glacier Bay where Captain Carsjens deftly manoeuvres the ship, seemingly turning it on a dime so we can all enjoy uninterrupted views of the spectacular snow-peaked rocky surrounds culminating in the ice-blue facades of Lamplugh and Margerie glaciers. There’s almost a reverence in the air as we quietly contemplate the grandeur of nature.
The remote region attracts real-life characters. I had visited this area some years ago in winter, prior to the start of the cruise season. Back then, we travelled everywhere by small aircraft, dropping in on these remote villages where we ate and drank with the locals, were driven by dogsled, tried our hand at snowmobiling and even took part in a snowshoe race in Whitehorse. I remember one character telling me that during the 1890s Klondike ‘gold rush’ era, men outnumbered the women 10 to one, and “for a woman, the odds were good – but the goods were odd”.
Around 1.9 million cruise passengers are expected to take in the region’s stunning scenery, spectacular glaciers, pristine national parks and more this year.
As well, some 20,000 seasonal workers move into the region to help facilitate excursions and operate concessions pertinent to the industry.
Most of Alaska’s 1,717km2 is uninhabitable due to its remote wilderness and inhospitable climate. Of its sparse population of 740,000, most live in the southeast corner around the Inside Passage or in the south-central around Anchorage. Small townships swell to four and five times their population when cruise ships dock for shore excursions to learn about the history, culture and lifestyle of this 50th state of the USA.
Holland America Line was one of the first shipping lines to pioneer this scenic region – some 75 years ago. These Alaskan waters have proven so popular with the company that in the season (May to October), most of their cruise ships operate here – either on return cruises from Seattle or Vancouver, accounting for more than 12,000 weekly visitors.
It’s easy to understand why such Alaskan cruises are on so many people’s ‘bucket list’: they appeal to all ages – from eight to 80, ideal for multi-generational holidays; they offer smooth sailing along the coastline; with drinks packages and charges at specialty restaurants, guests can control their total spend; airfares to get there are competitive; and with perhaps a few days in Vancouver pre- or post-cruise, Canada is one of the most popular destinations for Australians, particularly with a sympathetic dollar.
