After arriving in Copenhagen – whether at the train station or the airport – you’ll have a tough decision to make: should you head straight over to Malmö in Sweden, or do you prefer to discover the Danish capital first?
The onward journey to Sweden couldn’t be easier. From Copenhagen’s main railway station, the express train takes you across the Öresund strait on the almost 8-kilometre-long Öresund Bridge via Kastrup Airport to the seaside city of Malmö in just over half an hour.
Quite young and quite old
Sweden’s third-largest city, with around 300,000 inhabitants, has a young population – half of the people who live in Malmö are under 35.
The city has been given quite the upgrade over the past two decades, but before you check out the modern sights, there is a heavy dose of history to be experienced in the centre.
Around the large 15th-century market square, Stortorget, with the town hall and the neighbouring small market square Lilla Torg, the cobbled streets are lined with restaurants and cafés, and old residential streets convey a cozy flair.
Malmö goes eco
If you want to discover the new Malmö, you have to head north to the former harbour district of Västra Hamnen. Previously an industrial area, it fell into decline in the 1980s. In 2001 the city began revitalising the district, and modern low-energy houses, parks and other ecological projects were built on the derelict land.
The former harbour is particularly beautiful seen from the water. Canal boat tours depart from the city’s main railway station.
If there is enough time, it is also worth taking a walk along the beach promenade to nearby Ribersborgsstranden, where you will encounter one of Malmö’s most beautiful sights, the wooden Kallbadhus.
Built in 1898, the “Cold Bathing House” juts far out into the sea where can throw yourself into the cold waters all year round. Before that, you can heat up in one of the saunas with a panoramic view. The bathers here are all naked (and separated by gender).
Cosmopolitan Copenhagen
Invigorated by the cold bath, it’s time for the short journey across the Öresund back to Denmark. If you start the trip in the late afternoon, with a bit of luck you will not only be rewarded with a red sunset over the water, but you can also leap right into the action in Copenhagen, with the famous Tivoli Gardens awaiting directly behind the main station.
Opened in 1843, this is one of the oldest amusement parks still in existence in Europe. Tivoli is a lively mix between a garden exhibition, restaurants and funfair cacophony, complete with roller coasters. The season gets under way at the end of March.
And that’s just the beginning. From the train station, you can walk north along Europe’s first (and one of the longest) pedestrianised streets, Ströget, almost all the way to Nyhavn. With its colourful houses, anchored sailing ships and pubs, the 350-year-old “New Harbour” is a tourist favourite.
Those who want to get away from the hustle and bustle are well advised to take a boat tour and head out to the abandoned fortifications of Flakfortet. On the way, you will pass the (surprisingly unspectacular) Little Mermaid statue.
Back in the city, make sure to visit Christiania, a commune less than a quarter of an hour’s walk from the harbour. With its graffiti-covered houses, the atmosphere here is different from the rest of the city. Freetown Christiania, as the 7.7-hectare area inhabited by some 1,000 is officially known, originally emerged from a squatted military base. It is known for its open trade of cannabis on Pusher Street, which is illegal in Denmark. Cameras are not welcome in Christiania.
That beach feeling
As you head south out of Copenhagen on your way to Kastrup Airport the city suddenly shows off its seaside, complete with beaches and sunshine.
If time permits stop at Amager Strand beach for a walk, or at least spend a few minutes sitting on the jetty with your feet in the water, enjoying the view of the Öresund.
