MiNDFOOD’s editor-in-chief Michael McHugh dines at Compartir restaurant in Barcelona, sister restaurant to the number one restaurant in the world. Ever since he left, he’s been dreaming of returning one day.
Setting the Scene
Securing a table at Disfrutar, currently crowned the World’s Best Restaurant, requires the kind of strategic planning usually reserved for international diplomacy. So, stepping into the late afternoon sunshine of Barcelona’s stylish Eixample district, my anticipation for its casual-chic sibling, Compartir, was building, to say the least. Masterminded in 2022 by ex-elBulli legends Oriol Castro, Eduard Xatruch, and Mateu Casañas alongside executive chef Nil Dulcet, Compartir (‘to share’) promises the same staggering culinary pedigree, but reframed into an accessible Mediterranean celebration minus the year-long waitlists.
A Mediterranean Sanctuary
Stepping through the doorway, the space immediately wraps you in a bright, contemporary sanctuary that effortlessly bridges high design with laid-back charm. Designed as a homage to the original Cadaqués location, the interior glows with artfully textured white walls, warm terracotta accents, floating rattan features, and dramatic marine-blue splashes that evoke the Mediterranean. It feels refined without being remotely stuffy, buzzing with a warm, sun-dappled energy that instantly sets the mood for gastronomic discovery.
Culinary Theatre and a ‘Thriller’ Service
The heart of the dining room beats around a brilliant open-plan kitchen, where a brigade of chefs moves with the synchronised, effortless choreography of a grand ballet. Watching Nil Dulcet and his team operate amidst the quiet hum of cooking and delicate plating is pure culinary theatre, injecting the room with a lively, infectious momentum.
The service is equally stellar: intuitive, engaging, and delightfully unpretentious, delivered by a team who take genuine pride in explaining the storytelling behind every dish without ever slipping into rigid fine-dining script reading. Once he discovered my first name was Michael, the sommelier said, “Ah, like Michael Jackson?” and proceeded to do the moonwalk. To be honest, it made me feel a little uncomfortable, but what he recommended to drink was a real Thriller! A 2023 Vi de Vila Gratallops Priorat that drank well with every course.
An Alchemy of Flavours
What unfolded at the table was an absolute masterclass in alchemy, celebrating the very finest local ingredients. If you love oysters, hot or cold, there were plenty on the menu, but that was all wasted on me. I did, however, begin on a decadent note with fresh, puffy blinis topped with lavish dollops of buttery caviar and sour cream—a luxurious opening act that instantly got the party started. Next arrived plump, sweet local mussels with a tarragon béarnaise sauce served on a plate of stones. Thank God I had my glasses with me, or I may have tried to crunch my way through those as well.
The Savoury Highlights
Next up was a local favourite: the restaurant’s famous Tuna Cannelloni. A brilliant, modern twist on traditional Catalan comfort food, it features delicate raw red tuna on a luscious seafood sauce, striking a perfect balance between nostalgia and high-wire technique. I ordered what the menu called ‘Rustic Bread’ to mop up what was left behind.
The savoury highlight, however, was a succulent grilled organic chicken with a Catalan-style garnish of wilted greens, caramelised juicy plump grapes, and pine nuts, proving how pure culinary intellect can elevate a humble traditional plate into something utterly transcendent.
A Triumphant Finale
No meal crafted by elBulli alumni ends without a touch of magic, and dessert proved to be a triumphant finale. A passionfruit Zabaione with chocolate sorbet was a delicate symphony of crisp textures and sweet, sour, and subtle Mediterranean flavours that had me scraping every last bit from the glass dish.
Leaving Compartir and stepping back into the warm-as-toast evening air of Barcelona, I couldn’t help but think what a brilliant triumph the evening had been and how Compartir is firmly on my list of recommendations for those travelling to Barcelona. It simply captures the very essence of what great dining should be: world-class innovation served with warmth and soul, proving that the finest meals are always those that leave you with lasting memories. I will definitely return the next time I am in Barcelona.
To book, visit: https://www.compartirbarcelona.com/restaurant-en/
