Of her Fall-Winter 2022/23 Haute Couture show, Chanel creative director Virginie Viard says it was a continuity of her previous presentation, but leaving room for experimentation.
“The group of artists who surround me, made up of Xavier Veilhan, Sébastien Tellier, Charlotte Casiraghi and joined by Pharrell Williams and model Vivienne Rohner, allows for this,” she says, “as does the Haute Couture.”
“In this new collection, there are suits, long dresses like Mademoiselle Chanel imagined them in the 1930s: fitted to the body even though they have strong shoulders here, and pleated dresses like the wedding dress for instance. And lace too, inlaid, reworked, not embroidered, but repainted. The palette consists of bright green, khaki, beige, pink, lots of black and silver.”
Round shoulders, square backs, embroideries with geometric shapes and patterns are a nod to the 1930s, while also looking back to the 1970s, they resonate with the constructivism of a very “graphic” décor. A key word to which Karl Lagerfeld was particularly attached. But, as Viard explains, “I also like to break the graphic approach with a natural look. The clothes remain light, feminine, designed to be worn. I can’t see myself doing it any other way.”
Discover the collection in the gallery below: