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Chanel make-up notes

By MiNDFOOD

Peter Philips explains Chanel's make-up look from the 2009/10 Autumn-Winter ready-to-wear show, MiNDFOOD reports.

THE INSPIRATION

At the brief three weeks before the show, Karl told us that the dominant colours of the collection would be black punctuated with white, jade green and pink. There would be high collars, hats, and the hair, let down. For the make-up, Karl’s wish was that the models’ faces stand out, highlighting their beauty as they would be “framed” by the hats and high collars.

I therefore created a make-up look that is fresh but that also catches the eye. I needed to work with the hats’ shadows, create a contrast and provide intensity to the face, with an added graphic element for the eyes. I then thought of asking the Maison Lesage (with whom I often work on my editorial projects), to create embroideries to place under the eye and intensify the models’ expressions. I wanted something that would be luxurious, fragile and graphic.

FOCUS ON THE EYES

These embroideries, composed of black, white and crystalline peals and sequins, simulate fake eye-lashes with a ’60s look. Working with the Maison Lesage is always a dream.

The eyes are done up with Platinum and Ebony Ombre Essentielle, the interior is underlined by Crayon Khôl Blanc and Ligne Extrême Encre Noire Onyx eyeliner just at the root of the lower eyelashes. An abundant amount of mascara Exceptionnel de Chanel Smoky Noir is applied to the top and bottom eyelashes.

THE “FRESH” ATTITUDE COMPLEXION

The complexions were prepared with the Hydramax+ Active Cream and then with Pro Lumière foundation which is incomparable when it comes to smoothing, and evening out the skin. On the cheeks Joues Contraste Fresque echoes the collection’s touch of pink.

DISCRETION FOR THE LIPS

The lips are natural, using Rouge Allure Mythic to produce a transparent beige effect.

JADE ADORNED NAILS

For the nails, Karl wanted a green tint which would resonate with the jade coloured notes of the collection. I therefore worked with our laboratories to develop a palette of 10 different shades of green. We chose the colour which was closest to a green tweed suit in the collection.

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