Love it or loathe it, it’s been difficult to avoid the contouring trend that took over the beauty world, but Olivia Wild, Bobbi Brown Training Manager, assures us that contouring is on the way out. “The trend is all about skin. It’s about a luminosity in the skin and having shape in the face. And that’s always been Bobbi’s approach, even 25 years ago.” While Wild explains that there is a place for contouring – think the theatre – she says that what people get with contouring is they are emulating make-up that’s been created for television. “They’re trying to create a look for stage or television, and it doesn’t translate well into real life.”
“A lot of women who come into Bobbi Brown for contouring already have beautiful bone structure,” Wild says. Instead of reaching for contouring palettes, take some time to get to know your face shape in the mirror. “Appreciate what you already have,” says Wild. “Use bronzers instead. You’re looking for the warmth on the chest and bringing that back into the face. You can use highlighters on the high points of your face to create a lift,” she adds.
Easy Does It
Keeping it really simple is the best, and easiest, approach to take. A blush and bronzer is all you need to create a glow. “Start with the bronzer, and once you’re done go in with a clean brush and blend out any lines. Smile, then apply a little colour to the apples of your cheek,” instructs Wild. As for the colour you should use: Wild recommends the shade your skin would be when you exercise.
Light Up “Apply highlighting powder to the areas where light naturally hits the face – on the cheekbones, on the cupid’s bow, in the corner of the eyes, a little bit under the eyebrow,” explains Wild. The real trick to using highlighter correctly is not overdoing it. “A mistake that lots of people make is taking highlighters too literally and putting it on so you can really see it.” Wild’s pro tip to ensure you have the perfect amount of highlighter on is to use the torch on your mobile phone. “You shouldn’t be able to see highlighter in normal lighting – use the phone light and hold it against your skin.”
According to Wild, Kiwi women don’t wear blush enough. “A lot of women wear all their foundation, all their eye make-up but forget about blush or sculpting. And what that does is leave the face looking really flat.” Wild explains that foundation takes all the natural shape, shadow and contours out of skin. “Before you even put on foundation, you need to look at your face and work out where you need it. You still want to have shape in your face.”