Like popping a multivitamin in the hopes of all-round health benefits, applying a product containing peptides to your skin will likely provide a number of benefits to help firm, lift, smooth and brighten your appearance.
Lauded as anti-ageing powerhouses, they aim to keep that good stuff in our skin that keeps it taut, plump and healthy – think collagen, elastin and keratin – boosting, and preventing the loss of those elements we want to hold on to as skin ages. Given the increase in understanding of what they are capable of, they are now being used with much wider applications than just your nightly face serum: popping up in lip-smoothing makeup, growth-boosting haircare and body products.
What are peptides?
Peptides are made up of amino acids, sometimes referred to as the ‘building blocks’ of certain naturally-occurring proteins needed by healthy skin, such as collagen and elastin. When these amino acids are combined in certain formations, or chains, they create specific peptides.
Given there are a huge number of combinations that form different peptides (there are thousands that occur naturally in the human body) the word is an umbrella term, and they can actually be used for different purposes.
Peptides have been added to skincare for decades. Yet the main focus in recent beauty research and development is isolating more effective specific peptides proven to be powerful in targeting different skin concerns in order to improve wrinkles, texture, strength and resilience.
Like other new development areas in skin science and appearance medicine gaining a lot of attention such as biostimulator injectables, peptides are part of a growing focus on helping prompt skin to improve itself from the inside out.
L-R: Environ Vita-Peptide Eye Gel; Medik8 Liquid Peprides Advanced MP; L’Oréal Paris Revitalift Laser Tri-Peptides Age-Correcting Serum; The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum; Paula’s Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer; Allies of Skin Peptides & Omegas Firming Eye Cream
How do peptides work?
When applied topically, it’s understood that specific peptides work as tiny, molecular-level messengers, signaling to skin to build more collagen and elastin, improving firmness, elasticity and texture. Given this production declines with age, the peptides’ ‘wake-up’ reminder, or trigger, to make more can definitely be of use to everyone, but particularly those with mature skin.
“Peptides are so important for skin because when they absorb in, they can educate skin to do specific things,” says skincare expert and brand founder Paula Begoun.
“Each peptide is designed to tell skin to make better skin cells, to be more hydrated, to stop making skin cells that cause discolouration, to make skin firmer. It’s amazing how smart peptides are and having smarter skin is good skincare.”
Peptides are formulated in a way that allows them to penetrate more deeply than would be possible than just applying protein like collagen to skin directly.
Like many skincare ingredients, peptides in skincare are usually found in nature or created synthetically. Some peptides are derived from plant sources such as rice, yeast and oat kernels as well as avocado, seaweed and more. While they work in a different way to retinol, another skincare hero with age- defying benefits, one of the upsides is that peptides are rarely ever irritating. They are
also generally added to nourishing formulas with other hydrating and smoothing ingredients so they are easy to work into your routine no matter your skin type.
In haircare, peptides can also have a number of benefits, including helping to support healthy-looking hair, by promoting thicker, fuller-looking hair.
Winter wonder
Peptides can be incorporated in every stage of your skincare routine, from cleansers and serums to eye creams.
One popular way to use them is to combine with richly hydrating ingredients in a moisturiser so you’re getting a number of benefits beyond simple hydration without having to use numerous products. At this time of year, your previously full and dewy complexion might be feeling more papery and dry, with fine lines appearing more apparent than usual.
Weather affects our skin more than we might think and as cold temperatures set in, the air becomes drier.
As a result, lips become chapped (hydrating lip balm is a must!) and skin may become more inflamed or dehydrated.
These weather changes can weaken the body’s all-important skin barrier, making you more susceptible to irritated or flaky skin or dry patches. Skin that is not getting enough deep hydration can start looking dull as a whole.
Experts suggest choosing a thicker, more emollient texture for your autumn and winter moisturiser. They not only deliver rich, nourishing moisture and lock it in, but also provide your skin better protection from the elements. Look out for a peptide moisturiser with these properties, or try layering an advanced peptide serum under a thicker moisture to lock those goodies in.
